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Old 06-22-2010 | 05:26 AM
  #4486  
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Originally Posted by CREWMAN
This class has really cought my eye and im really getting an itch to get one, here is my question. I want to build one, not an rtr, but i want to run in a stock class. Is this possible, and if so what can i do. I am leaning toward the associated car but what do i do about electronics,tires, etc?

Like i said i am really likeing this clas but i am confused on how to get into it. Thanks
IF you want to build it then you have 2 options, the Factory Team SC10 which is not out yet and the Blitz ESE which has chassis breakage issues.

Use whatever you want for the electronics an tires, nobody races stock (at least not around here).
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Old 06-22-2010 | 07:42 AM
  #4487  
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Originally Posted by CREWMAN
This class has really cought my eye and im really getting an itch to get one, here is my question. I want to build one, not an rtr, but i want to run in a stock class. Is this possible, and if so what can i do. I am leaning toward the associated car but what do i do about electronics,tires, etc?

Like i said i am really likeing this clas but i am confused on how to get into it. Thanks
I love the SC10 and created my own Factory Team version from a Factory team RC10T4 FT kit. The only parts I don't have on my truck are the ones that are not available yet (V2 slipper, V2 shocks, Toe blocks). I would actually recommend that you get the SC10 kit if you can't wait for the Factor Team kit to be available. I race Stock with a Novak Sport 17.5 SSPro system and 40c 4000mAH battery. I am ROAR legal and our local racing series has the ROAR stock class. At Club races I am running a 13.5t in the Open 2wd class so far but the 17.5t is decent on tight tracks with shorter straights. Most Open or Mod SCT 2wd trucks are running the 10.5t motor.

If you need to buy electronics I would recommend something with timing advance like Tekin RS or MMP. This makes the 17.5t run faster like a 10.5 on the straights. It is not ROAR legal but most Club or Regional series are not policing this. I know cause I race against guys that have them and they blow by me on the straights.
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Old 06-22-2010 | 09:08 AM
  #4488  
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Everyone loves the Tekin Pro but the thing is $300. I would go with a Mamba Max Pro and motor which is like $175 after the $20 Tower discount coupon. Both are sensored, USB connectible and have firmware updates
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Old 06-22-2010 | 10:27 AM
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Tekin NOT ROAR legal? Only in sportsman from what have seen. That the way it is for the NATS.
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Old 06-22-2010 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly
I race Stock with a Novak Sport 17.5 SSPro system and 40c 4000mAH battery. I am ROAR legal and our local racing series has the ROAR stock class. At Club races I am running a 13.5t in the Open 2wd class so far but the 17.5t is decent on tight tracks with shorter straights. Most Open or Mod SCT 2wd trucks are running the 10.5t motor.

If you need to buy electronics I would recommend something with timing advance like Tekin RS or MMP. This makes the 17.5t run faster like a 10.5 on the straights. It is not ROAR legal but most Club or Regional series are not policing this. I know cause I race against guys that have them and they blow by me on the straights.
The only ESC Rules that ROAR has published is a list of acceptable ESC and firmware version, with regard to the Sportsman Classes. And that refers to specific profile characteristics, ie ZERO Timing Advance from the Speedo.
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Old 06-29-2010 | 06:28 PM
  #4491  
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il give the sc10 thread a lil shot in the arm seams a lil dead latley ,

iv been having a shocking time latley with my st 17mm hex convertion and have not really put a full battery through my sc10 yet . the problem is , the standard nuts for the rear wheels will not fit in the hub converion . new smaller 8-32 nuts do not come with the kit so im guessing it just relise on the drive pin to hold the hub and wheel on . im not happy with that because it allows the wheel to move and have a lil play . i need a nut to srew up in side nice and snug. being from australia i have a hard time getting 8-32 nuts and the ones i can find dont fit like the standard ones . iv got sum nylon ones coming from amain so hopfully they fit and are small enuff to fit in .

i tapped out a nylon 4-40 nut to 8-32 that my bro had for his rc10gt to see if it would work and it did . but i had to turn down a socket just to do the thing up . hopefully these new nuts work . any one els run these hubs ?????
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Old 06-30-2010 | 02:22 PM
  #4492  
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i ended up running my sc10 last night , put 2 lipos through it , even with the rear wheel problem i was just hanging to use it . ran good , jumps great , i think i might need stiffer springs in the front i think its bottoming out a lil . the new chassis was good nothing came loose , broke or cracked . always a plus . i do have a lil problem with engine heat, i think my cars a lil over geared , the engine is cooking . i did run the batteries back to back but still its soooooo hot ya cant touch it . i might re gear it and iv bought the alloy rear engine guard and a heat sink fan set up to go on the motor to keep it cooler . soo il see how that go's.

oh and i also tryed these tyres on the back and on dirt/grass they are awsome best thing ever ,the thing on thick grass does wheel stands hhaha .. http://cgi.ebay.com/GRP-GMW04A-1-8-B...item5192cd6f17

Last edited by sly6t; 06-30-2010 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 06-30-2010 | 03:56 PM
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I've got an SC10 roller on the way to my house. I'm putting an AE brushless 3900kv system in it, you guys think that'll be decent? I'm a complete newb and will just be racing it on my own offroad track, so I don't care about classes or competing with others. The 3300kv in my T4 and B4 are silly fast to me, so I imagine I'll have my hands full for a while.
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Old 06-30-2010 | 03:59 PM
  #4494  
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i got a question about the rear arm mount/toe block for the sc10... you can buy one with anti squat shims for b4/t4 and the other with rear brace says for sc10... are both the same or totally different degrees .... thnx in advance
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Old 07-01-2010 | 03:17 AM
  #4495  
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Originally Posted by sly6t
il give the sc10 thread a lil shot in the arm seams a lil dead latley ,

iv been having a shocking time latley with my st 17mm hex convertion and have not really put a full battery through my sc10 yet . the problem is , the standard nuts for the rear wheels will not fit in the hub converion . new smaller 8-32 nuts do not come with the kit so im guessing it just relise on the drive pin to hold the hub and wheel on . im not happy with that because it allows the wheel to move and have a lil play . i need a nut to srew up in side nice and snug. being from australia i have a hard time getting 8-32 nuts and the ones i can find dont fit like the standard ones . iv got sum nylon ones coming from amain so hopfully they fit and are small enuff to fit in .

i tapped out a nylon 4-40 nut to 8-32 that my bro had for his rc10gt to see if it would work and it did . but i had to turn down a socket just to do the thing up . hopefully these new nuts work . any one els run these hubs ?????
i just reciecved my st hex adaptors today. i gotta say the finishing on them is pretty average. i am gonna have to drill the pin holes out so the pins fit properly. what screws did you get from amain to fit inside the adaptors?
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Old 07-01-2010 | 03:38 AM
  #4496  
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Originally Posted by cozmogeek
I've got an SC10 roller on the way to my house. I'm putting an AE brushless 3900kv system in it, you guys think that'll be decent? I'm a complete newb and will just be racing it on my own offroad track, so I don't care about classes or competing with others. The 3300kv in my T4 and B4 are silly fast to me, so I imagine I'll have my hands full for a while.

You can only put so much traction down to a track man. Faster motor doesn't mean faster truck. I would start racing in a stock class 17.5 turn.
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Old 07-01-2010 | 08:12 AM
  #4497  
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Anyone running the 13.5 Duo 2? I'm looking for a good starting point for gearing. Thx

Last edited by BrentH; 07-01-2010 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 07-01-2010 | 09:22 AM
  #4498  
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Originally Posted by bjholz
You can only put so much traction down to a track man. Faster motor doesn't mean faster truck. I would start racing in a stock class 17.5 turn.
yep, it's hard enough to keep the SC10's ass planted as it is
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Old 07-01-2010 | 09:26 AM
  #4499  
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Stupid question, what does my Losi 4800kv motor equate to? 10.5, 17.5, ???

ben
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Old 07-01-2010 | 10:12 AM
  #4500  
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Originally Posted by armourbl
Stupid question, what does my Losi 4800kv motor equate to? 10.5, 17.5, ???

ben
more like a 9.5 ........... 10.5 = 4300kv per novak

Last edited by will g; 07-01-2010 at 10:35 AM.
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