No worries. When I take the V1's apart next I'll have a good look. Lately I'm just used to taking the shocks off and topping up the fluid. I know I'm due for new o-rings but I've got the V2's on back order, so hopefully I'll see them soon.

Don't get me wrong though, my V1 shocks don't leak all that much, but just a minor annoyance that they do leak a little. I've experienced some horribly leaky shocks in the past, and the V1's aren't even close to being the worst I've owned. At least (with the oil topped up) they're a buttery smooth shock.

I'm using the AE fluid.

Willy , V1 tips:

Make sure any flash where the parts were attached to the tree be removed with a X- knife..

Slime the seals ....

When inserting the new cartridge be very careful and make sure the .030 spacers are aligned flat inside the bore after .


Insert shock shaft by threading it pass the O-rings and try not to push though....

ThunderbirdJunkie has never had any leakage issues until his SC10, out of any shocks, even Associated's.

The B2 is still holding fluid and the last time those shocks were rebuilt was like 10 years ago.

The HPI shocks currently on the SC10 haven't seen new o-rings since 2001 or so...

is this common among the new foreign-sourced shit they're using for AE parts?

No, sorry if I made it sound like they were leaking. Mine are not. I've never had a leakage problem with my associated shocks since I started using Race Tech Ultra seal lube.

I was curious as to what the improvement might have been other than ease of assembly.

Well here's what I do on my SC10 shocks, and I still use the stock ones, I just replace the cap and put a bleeder diaphram from the TC5 shocks and they work just as well, havent changed oil in a month or rebled in that long time period and I race every wed just to have fun. But im gonna rebleed my shocks for a race this thursday up in hemet CA for my first Off road race, i really like the SC10 and have always used associated stuff in the past really great truck, not bad for a RTR truck.

a buddy of mine...just bought the bl rtr and what's a good baseline setup for it to keep the rear planted and not so loose

hi guys got bored today so made a front tower in carbon to go with the rest of the race truck . slowly i will have more and more stuff made out of it , next will be the rear when i got time , sooo what ya guys think ?????

[QUOTE=sly6t;7758630]hi guys got bored today so made a front tower in carbon to go with the rest of the race truck . slowly i will have more and more stuff made out of it , next will be the rear when i got time , sooo what ya guys think ?????

I think that truck is beautiful. Pretty enough to hang over the fireplace. I wish I had the talent and skill to build something like it.

1 degree toe in hubs or the toe plate set ($6 at LHS) for another 1 degree of toe in and new rubber.

ok heres my current setup stock springs 50wt oil in the rear 40wt oil in the front, calibers M3 soft compund in the rear and stock tires upfront stock ride height one sticky wheel weight on the front of the bumper, and try 1.5 degree of camber all around. trust me I use this setup at a really loose track and keep up and over take 10.5 motor 2wd trucks, all I have is a speedpassion 80buck 17.5 combo in it as a powerplant. and sometimes it has too much grip in the rear.

I dont know why everyone thinks the sc10 is so brittle. I have had 2 of my cousins who have never driven an rc anything before race and practice in my sc10 this week, and nothing has broken! I dont get it

Meh the only thing that I think is brittle is the front bumper. But mine is still working the electronis failed first than the truck itself.

I have an extra bumper in my bag, but have never had to use it. I try not to bash into walls or into trucks parked on the straight. And I have always had novak in it

I took the stocker one off and put a RPM one on it that way it doesnt tie into the shock tower during impact, and front aluminum bulkhead, but yeah I got a 80 buck 17.5 spec speedo in that thing and it does well.