Ok, trying to find out what's going on with my motor. Got a 5pt that I rebuilt with ceramic rear bearing, new piston,rod,sleeve and front bearing. Heated it up and broke it in like every other motor. Ran about 1/2 gal breaking it in and then started tuning it for more power. Well got about 8 more tanks on it and the wrist pin clip broke messing up the P/S/R. So bought another P/S/R and tore the motor down and cleaned it all out again and installed the new P/S/R. Broke this one in and got just over a gallon on this one and like clock work the thing died. Took it apart and guess what. Wrist pin clip broke again and ruined another P/S/R. Getting tired of throwing 100.00 P/S/R in this thing every Gallon. I really liked my GO motor but I think I'm about to junk it and go to Nova. Anyone else have issues like this?

dam man that sucks really bad wonder if its a faulty batch ? i would ask a dealer for sure and speak to them , maybe they could shed some light...

i assume the rear bearing is in all the way properly seated

Rkhess get the pipe they can be found at Casterracingusa.com, and Russell has the white shirts in stock call him up.

I am hoping MM or another GO dealer can shed some light on this. Yes the bearings are seated all the way. I have the JP tools for pulling and installing front and rear bearings. Changed many of bearings in my other motors and no problems there.

interested to know what the cause is let us know what the out come is
good luck

I got it, never mind..

As much as I wanted to believe in these mills, I'm not convinced anymore. The carbs are absolute junk, as I've replaced the o-rings many times only to have them fall apart again and again. Put a V-spec carb on it, it will tune normal and run normal, and you won't have to replace o-rings every few tanks. This is only MY opinion and not meant to piss anyone off, cuz that's not why I'm here. I was just as fustrated with these motors and probably blew $300 in glow plugs to get it to stay running.

any one ever have exhaust manifold bend on them? an using dynamite 086 combo. I was cleaning buggy when I noticed the manifold. matched it up with the other one I have and sure enough it's bent. Have no idea how it got that way.

aere you using the new o-rings that dont come apart ? also yuo can use fuel tube to seal the needles

i have only cracked a manafold under the pipe where you cant see it which was causing me tuning problems at the time took me a while to find

thanks grizz1 and mattwoodcraft for answer my question.
cheers mike

Not to mention I just put a new P/S/R in my 7 port and I'm a little afraid to break it in and run it.

Go with the 086. It will go well on the 3R and will have killer top end for that long straight. It has a shorter header so run 1.1 springs and alloy shoes to let it spol up on the bottom before the clutch hits. You are going to be running lots of tanks through this week if you want max performance by the weekend.
If you are going to be hard out racing, I would try and get 15 - 20 tanks through it

Hey matt the 0801 allready comes with a long header if you need more top end go fro the medium header of an 086 or a 2047 or a short header if you can get 1.

also the 2072 is supposed to be based on the 2047 with a longer header off the 0801.

for supra the 086 would be fine on the 3r in a buggy so if your freind wants to wait for a 2072 he could use the 086 in the mean time no worries.

Adrian

I myself have never broken a wrist pin and with out being able to see the engine and go over it first hand it's a bit of a lottery on the anwsers you'll get.

I would suggest maybe sending it to someone to have a good look over it for you as there maybe a small under lying problem that you may have overlooked and some times a fresh set off eyes see thing we miss ourselves. try 22Racer from all accounts it sounds like he does a very good job at resonable prices

Adrian