any set-up tips using the T4 shocks ??

most of what we race on is outdoors, inconsistant hardpack/loamy, dry.

pistons (2hole/4hole ?)
oil wt
springs
internal limiting

thanks guys !!

Is anyone else out there having issues with the idler gears on their SC10's? I just stripped out the second one in about 3 hours of drive time. This past time it even screwed up one of the teeth on the diff housing I'm about at my whits end with this thing. I've finally got the rest of the truck beefed up to where I feel comfortable with it, but now I can't seem to keep the tranny together for more than a handfull of runs. I've rebuilt it twice and to replace stripped diff gears and the idler gears, along with tearing it down b/w runs just to check everything(gear mesh, proper lubrication, etc.), but I'm still having constant issues. Does anyone know of a solution to my problems or know of a company that makes stronger gears for the tranny?
Thanks

Did a total of about 100 laps or more in the last couple of days and not one issue arose. Maybe I'm lucky or just don't drive it hard enough . One thing I'm not happy with is how bad the shocks leak

Jake

What would cause my sc10 to pull to one side? It wants to pull pretty hard when im on power.
Checked bearings, wheels are good, same toe on both sides. I dont get it.

I never have stripped out an idler gear. I cant see how that is possible unless something got bound up in the trans.

Torque + Gear Diff. Thus is the bane of a 2WD truck with low traction.

Hey Mc,

I'd be checkin into a new tranny case if you haven't already done that.
There might be a mesh issue between the idler and the other gears which could be from a bogus case, alignment, bearing seat or ?

Also I'd make absolutely sure that the slipper is able to slip before the tranny takes too much punishment.
Give the rear wheels a grab and punch it to be sure the slipper's not lockin up.

BTW, how's that chassis brace workin out for you?

I race with a guy (Hi Jake) who's ebay brace isn't doin too well.
It stays bent when tagged and is holding up his bumper and body.
Shoulda got the real deal, huh?
Had to bag on ya buddy.

Pullin to one side? Something must be draggin one rear wheel.
Punch it on the stand, let off and see if one wheel stops before the other?

Gas it slowly, one wheel start before the other?

Maybe look into the outdrive pins in the diff gears

BY the way guys for those of you tired of leaking shocks, check this out.


As you can see the rears are almost identical as far as travel and length. The front has the same travel but is a little longer. Most guys run inside on the tower and on the arm so moving it out on the tower and arm should take care of that. And by the way if you have never built or run K shocks, they have to be about the best there is.

Hmmmmm interesting, are those off the RB5?

Yep

Are the K shocks the same design as Losi xxx-t threaded shocks. Give us some part numbers And why do these not leak like the AE shocks ?.

Through are testing we have found that what bends is the D shaped bracket that attaches the bumper/ skidplate, to the shock tower. The brace does not hold up the body. What Jake needs to replace comes in the front bumper kit #9816. We tested this with and without the brace and the D shaped bracket bent no matter what. It sounds like Jake took a pretty big hit to bend the bracket, but at least it saved his chassis.

I probably lawn darted the thing 15 times big time trying to figure out that one jump, and yes the D shaped bracket is bent even when I took the skidplate off it did not fix itself so I do need a new D shaped bracket.

Well, I finally got mine running. Coming from 4WD On Road, they're a handful! Maybe too much power with a 13.5. Just bashing around some building sites, really had to feather the throttle to be able to get going. Once up to full speed, had a blast. Handled well. Big Air. Flew well and landed well. Shiny body isn't so shiny anymore!

Probably play around with the Slipper and Transmitter and ESC settings to find a happy medium, before I hit the race track.