Thanks Curtis, do you use trinity clutches or can you you use any clutch shoes and springs. If trinity clutch only were can I find them.

Also do any of you racers run any kick up on the truggy. I jsut put in the losi adjustable pins for anti sqaut for the rear and wanted to know what are most people running in the front. 0 or 0.5 ?

they should require a bit of force but not to much and should be smooth.
also watch it on the track and if the tyres are not tracking right it probably needs a little tightening...difficult without seeing it though

most run a 3/3 rear end....but the stock sheet that is included with the kit is wrong....here are the proper #'s.

Rear Toe-In adjustment
Position....Insert #....total toe-IN....REAL total

Inside........1.............1............1.65
Inside........0.5..........1.5.........2.15
Middle........0.............2............2.70
Outside......0.5..........2.5..........3.25
Outside......1.............3.............3.80




Rear Anti adjustment
Position....Insert #....total Anti....REAL total

UP..........1...............3............3.15
UP.........0.5.............2.5..........2.60
Middle......0.............2.............2.05
Down.......0.5.........1.5...........1.50
Down.......1.............1.............0.95

it does require some force. they werent moving around on the track or anything

sounds like it is about right then.
better to be slightly on the loose side..especially if you hit the pipes etc a bit

Anybody else using the Ofna 10248/10249 chrome top starter box with their truggy? I've been using it for years with the old truggy and now the new, but I'm sick of not being able to use rear pegs on it... anybody modded one? Can't seem to find one of those foam plates.. any ideas, short of getting a different box?

I don't have a chrome top, but I use this plate on my box. It works, but it was too thick for my wheel to make contact w/ the flywheel, so I had to thin it down using a router. The material is kind of cheap looking / feeling as well, but has held up well to my abuse.

-Howard

get the ofna true start rear mount plate then mount it to your silver top box jsut did it today will post pics tommorow if get time

hey guys thought i would give an update on the wheel bearin issue. i replaced stock bearings with avids after havin 2 bearin blow outs at the nitro challenge and since then its been sitting. but i finally ran it last weekend and i tore it apart today and the bearings are beautiful, none of them are gritty or anything. this is after 20 min of runnin.

Now, this may not be a permanent fix like the guy makin the rear hubs but from what i hear replaceing the bearings from stock fixes the bearing issue and front first hand exp it looks to be a fix, but i wont know if it permanent till after this weekend, there is a long race out here so ill be puttin way over an hour this weekend alone

I use the chrometop, just had to drill the rear pegs further back. I've been using avids on rear, while it's not a permanent fix they do last quite a bit longer.

Losi Racer--For this upcoming race have you done any cleaning/prep to the AVid bearings? Or do you plan to do any cleaning/prep to the bearings? Anything like pulling the seals to check for grease or adding oil? Just wondering to get an info for when you post back after the upcoming race.

Still blowing up throttle servos in the 8T 2.0, I went through 2 yesterday I even used the rubber mounts. I talked to Phillip Atondo and he said depending on the servo you still have to add spacers to keep it odd the chassis. When he inspected it the throttle servo was hitting the mud guard I was using a 9100T. When it went out it caused a runaway full throttle open as the rubber-band was not strong enough to close the carb. So the 2.0 does still have the problem if you are net cautious when you install the servo.

Wow i though the 2.0 wouldnt have this problem anymore blowing up the throttle servo. I got me the 1.0 for $300 eventhough i know it has its problem but it was a good deal i couldnt let go. Every buggy has theres. I bought the king headz stiffner and hope that helps out a little. I havent finish building the buggy yet. Any other tips would be great.

Sorry to hear about your issues. I have been running the Futaba s9451 that I took out of my 1.0(2 year old servo) with great success. Held up through practice, 4 heats and a 30min A main this past weekend. Now I gotta go make sure it's not hitting the guard. Oh, I don't use rubber grommets. Seems to me if that is the only problem, it is a fairly simple one to fix(too late for you I guess). Hope you have better luck next time.

i always use a short piece of fuel tubing on the throttle pull linkage,similiar to what is like on the brakes.the servo will pull against the tubing instead of the steel stopper.it acts like a servo saver in a way.this way,when the chassis flexes and you are at wot,there is a little give before the flex is transfered to the servo.