Yes work on your setup. it seems these trucks respond well to changes. Also you can mod the tires to get them to work and you can add a toe-in hub on the rear.

Add me to the list. Just started a kit today. Going with CC 5700 setup with this. Not sure about the servo yet.

I can't wait to see the difference between this and my Slash!!

Great thread!!

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you can use switch tires made for the slayer..they fit right on the stock rims...and yes on dry track they are better..but on wet track stock tires are better...and then you have the j concepts goosebump tires..they are better all around..

Night and day difference between the SC10 and the Slash. But the Slash seems to be a more durable truck.

Hello every one.

Been "lurking" on this Forum for some time. Recently got my SC10 on the track after owning a Slash. Each seem to have there own merits.

I tend to like the messing with the set up ofthe car more then anything.

As for the SC10, I am running a Vellineon VXL in order to compare it with the Slash I own. Sus is all stock except what is listed below except I used 30 WT Oil instead of the Silicone provided.

I am not the best driver but in search of better traction and bite, I installed ProLine Slayer Switch tires all the way around which I feel improved the traction over the original tires. (Dry Track that is)

I also "Siped" the rear set. That is, cut all of the knobs with an exacto knife both perpendicular as well as horizontal which seems to improve the traction even more.

Also installed a T4 Rear Sway Bar along with GT2 Hubs and Arms. Modified the rear arms so I could attach the Rear Sway bars since the GT2 arms have no provisions for sway bar attachments using RC airplane ball Links. Also using Gt2 arms allows you to change the wheel base a bit. Upper Links are set up long. Camber set at 2 deg rear and 1 deg front with maybe 2 deg front toe out.

I realized there was an option of using LOSI parts but wanted to stay Associated and not have to drill arms for larger Hinge Pins.

I used the following parts below for the conversion.

7932 1.5deg GT2/B44 hubs, X2
7930 GT2 rear arms, X2
7933 Rear Crush Tube X2 ( Alu Spacer between Inner and Outer bearings )
7935 larger bearing, X2 ( Use 2 of the original bearings for remaining 2
bearings in the 1.5 hubs )
7927 longer hinge pin. X2 (This PN# is for all the Hinge Pins)
9273 Plastic Spacers for Hub/Arm/Outer hinge pin, X2
( or use LOSI Shock Spacer Kit)

You will end up putting the rear shocks on the front of the Shock tower in order to keep it from binding. Also compare the distance from the tranny to the bottom shock mounts on the rear arms since the location of the bottom holes are different from original arms. I use the outer bottom shock mounts on the GT2 arms and inner top hole of the top shock mount. If running the rear Sway bar you will have to drill the GT2 arms and add RC airplane Ball joints to attach sway bars.

The differance in traction is VERY noticable. I am not the best driver so I mainly see the increased traction off the line as well as coming out of a turn.

I like the front end soft but will probably try AE Gold Springs to stiffen up the front a just a bit as the front still leans a little more then I like, even with the rear Sway Bar.

Next Mod is to put a Ball Diff in the back as I would like to get better Diff action on the rear to help the back end from sliding even more.

Any ideas on improving the front end a bit with out getting to stiff? I like how realistic the truck looks as the front tires cycle over the bumps.

Also besides the JB Weld trick on the rear tires, are there any oher options?

Hope this helps others out since I spent alot of time trying to find out the details with the Rear Hub Toe in conversion myself and had to make SEVERAL trips to the local hobby stores tracking all the PN# down.

what's this JB weld trick???????

The rear rims tend to strip WAY to easily where the Axle Pin slips into the rear rim. The pins starts to spin and hogs out the alignments slot on the plastic rims.
What I do is fill the cavity on each side of the Alighnment slot with JB Weld to give it more material. Works OK but I have managed to strip a wheel that I modified with JB Weld last weekend. Short of new rims all the time, there is no other option that I am aware of. U should also use a small Allen wrench to hold the axles in place behind the wheels when tightening the rear rims so you do not put undue stress on the plastic wheels when tightening.Also check the rear bolts as often as possible to make sure they stay tight.

I will talk to the guys and see what gives. We do run SC8's and that is what lead us down the SC 10 path. Most of us run both classes. Even the top buggy drivers are getting in on the Mod slash/SC 10 class. I know it is going to be an uphill battle to try to limit what tire you can run. But it would even things up a lot and keep the price down too. MacRacing better be on board!

Let you know what happens next week after the race this week.

Bob

the JB weld trick is to fill the holes on either side of the hex area. This help prevent the hex from stripping.

Hey Bob, why don't you just step up your game and try to keep up Besides, I'd be pissed if they set limits on the tires we could run after I've spent close to $300 on tires, wheels, and adapters over the last month and a half. I don't have a problem with the prolite class being unlimited. If you don't wanna spend the money (which I know you already have), then just join me in the spec class. I have just as much fun running in the spec races as I do in the prolite races

The stock tires modified do pretty well on indoor clay tracks, I dont see a reason to spend extra $$$$ on tires, BuggyKing and F N Cuda grant it good drivers can lift the front right tire off the ground through corners and stick it like its on rails.

are the other cars in the AE stable using the roll pin thing?

no hexes?

Only hex on a 10th scale AE electric off road car is the front of the B44. Roll pins are on the rear of all electric AE off road cars.

in my opinion 12mm hex hubs like on the kyosho sp/fs and hotbodies d4 should turn into industry standard much stronger with todays brushless lipo systems. but then we are talking new molds for wheels. you know