SC10 Thread
#1306
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 477
try adding some lead weight under the battery trust me it helps
#1308
I already have about 4 oz of weight spread out throught the chassis. I think I've got 2.5 up front and the rest in the back of the battery tray. It still just wasn't enough without the buggy wheels. Now it feels much, much easier to drive.
#1309
Hello...the manuel I have must be joking with me...just got the truck...Im at the build point on the rear camber links...my manuel says 2.80". Is that correct? Cause mine wont even reach the rear hub. I was reading some pages & it didnt seem like u all had ant problems Thanks in advance
#1310
Hello...the manuel I have must be joking with me...just got the truck...Im at the build point on the rear camber links...my manuel says 2.80". Is that correct? Cause mine wont even reach the rear hub. I was reading some pages & it didnt seem like u all had ant problems Thanks in advance
Then snap the camberlink on and adjust it to around 1 or 2 degrees negative camber, don't worry about what the manual says cuz you will need the longest camberlink position as well as ALL the other mods to add rear traction.
Best to read thru this thread thoroughly!
#1313
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
how do you guys rate the sc10 tyres....we race on a hardpack track in sydney australia...the stock tyres understeer on the front at slow speed into hairpins,and they have 0 sidebite on the rear in the high speed sweepers....
my switches,even nearly bald on the rear of my slash have a ton more grip.....
do i
1: just throw the stock tyres in the bin and work out what hub i can put in the front to allow hex wheels(slash hub,maybe a HPI firestorm front hub,or a tamiya type hub)
2: keep the front tyres on it and work on my setup more with the standard tyres...
3:do the front hub conversion and run epic beadlocks all round with switches...
and also have you guys been going softer or harder in general in yor setup...
sorry,but 88 pages of waffle about sc10 are a bit hard to sit down and read looking for a setup tip...after about 10 pages my eyes glaze over



my switches,even nearly bald on the rear of my slash have a ton more grip.....
do i
1: just throw the stock tyres in the bin and work out what hub i can put in the front to allow hex wheels(slash hub,maybe a HPI firestorm front hub,or a tamiya type hub)
2: keep the front tyres on it and work on my setup more with the standard tyres...
3:do the front hub conversion and run epic beadlocks all round with switches...
and also have you guys been going softer or harder in general in yor setup...
sorry,but 88 pages of waffle about sc10 are a bit hard to sit down and read looking for a setup tip...after about 10 pages my eyes glaze over




#1314
how do you guys rate the sc10 tyres....we race on a hardpack track in sydney australia...the stock tyres understeer on the front at slow speed into hairpins,and they have 0 sidebite on the rear in the high speed sweepers....
my switches,even nearly bald on the rear of my slash have a ton more grip.....
do i
1: just throw the stock tyres in the bin and work out what hub i can put in the front to allow hex wheels(slash hub,maybe a HPI firestorm front hub,or a tamiya type hub)
2: keep the front tyres on it and work on my setup more with the standard tyres...
3:do the front hub conversion and run epic beadlocks all round with switches...
and also have you guys been going softer or harder in general in yor setup...
sorry,but 88 pages of waffle about sc10 are a bit hard to sit down and read looking for a setup tip...after about 10 pages my eyes glaze over




my switches,even nearly bald on the rear of my slash have a ton more grip.....
do i
1: just throw the stock tyres in the bin and work out what hub i can put in the front to allow hex wheels(slash hub,maybe a HPI firestorm front hub,or a tamiya type hub)
2: keep the front tyres on it and work on my setup more with the standard tyres...
3:do the front hub conversion and run epic beadlocks all round with switches...
and also have you guys been going softer or harder in general in yor setup...
sorry,but 88 pages of waffle about sc10 are a bit hard to sit down and read looking for a setup tip...after about 10 pages my eyes glaze over





If your going to stay with the stock setup then you will want to get yourself a set of JConcepts Goosebumps and depending on your tracks surface, either run them with the stock foams or opt for the AKA 1/8 scale buggy foams. You may want to read a bit about the AKA foams as some guys love'em while others think it made the tires too stiff, which would put you right back in the same position you are now - limited traction!
If stock is of no concern, then opt for the 17mm adapters for the GT2. Google GT2 and 17mm, you should get a hit for an ebay seller.
Good luck and post up your results so others can read about your setup.
#1315
J Concepts Goosebumps are the best tire to run with the stock wheels. Go to the AE website and run Kurt Wenger's setup. Only thing I changed from his setup is 35wt. up front and 30wt. rear. I'm not adding any weight with good results. I'm also running a 17.5 brushless setup because the truck handles that amount of power very well and gets the power down better than the 10.5s and 13.5s. I know you guys run on different surfaces than we do so you might play with the suspension to suit you.
#1316
#1318
After dickin with this truck for a few weeks now a couple of us have found that the most effective tricks for running the stock tires is to cut em around the outside thru the knobbies as in the pix posted here or one of the other SC10 threads.
It's worth a look.
After that, get some 1 to 2 degree rear hubs.
After that, LOAD it down with weight and motor up!
All of the other setup tips are really minor and hardly change the handling of the truck.
It'll still push into the corners and step out after it turns.
Other than that your gonna need a set of $80 1/8 scale wheels and tires and adapters.
Now your have a whole different class of Open Modified truck but it'll be fast, just not cheap.
It's worth a look.
After that, get some 1 to 2 degree rear hubs.
After that, LOAD it down with weight and motor up!
All of the other setup tips are really minor and hardly change the handling of the truck.
It'll still push into the corners and step out after it turns.
Other than that your gonna need a set of $80 1/8 scale wheels and tires and adapters.
Now your have a whole different class of Open Modified truck but it'll be fast, just not cheap.
#1320
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 23
After dickin with this truck for a few weeks now a couple of us have found that the most effective tricks for running the stock tires is to cut em around the outside thru the knobbies as in the pix posted here or one of the other SC10 threads.
It's worth a look.
After that, get some 1 to 2 degree rear hubs.
After that, LOAD it down with weight and motor up!
All of the other setup tips are really minor and hardly change the handling of the truck.
It'll still push into the corners and step out after it turns.
Other than that your gonna need a set of $80 1/8 scale wheels and tires and adapters.
Now your have a whole different class of Open Modified truck but it'll be fast, just not cheap.
It's worth a look.
After that, get some 1 to 2 degree rear hubs.
After that, LOAD it down with weight and motor up!
All of the other setup tips are really minor and hardly change the handling of the truck.
It'll still push into the corners and step out after it turns.
Other than that your gonna need a set of $80 1/8 scale wheels and tires and adapters.
Now your have a whole different class of Open Modified truck but it'll be fast, just not cheap.




