I ran it here and the black grease seems perfect. Tires are awesome. I'll let you know after tomorrow night how it does on the track.

It should be 7412 for the rear and 7414 for the front. Thats just the shock bodies. The book does show 9633 for the kit though. If you order the bodies you'll need the collars which is 7416.

I have some vids on youtube bashing out doors with the SC10 , and will get some Friday on a indoor track.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ttQx...e=channel_page

Im really considering buying a ball diff. I cleaned out al the grease and it still feels like the diff needs to be lighter. Any kind of throttle in a turn results in the rear just coming around on me. Its like the gear diff has to much friction even when dry for this light truck.

My slash diffs out liek crazy on sharp turns but at least it wont spin out. My sc10 seems to have to much diff and power slides rite around on me lol. Anyone think the ball diff can be loosened more then the gear diff?

Ok well I rebuilt the Diff again. this time I made it as tight as I could get the output shafts without them biding. I left the small washer on the outside and installed 2 large washers on the inside of each side behind the sun gear. I will post pics soon. to sho what happened. I called AE today and they are sending out somemore washers as I type this. I recomend toeveryone build the diff tight and order a diff rebuild kit I will need to replace the seal and "O"rings next time I take it apart.

Really. So what did they say?????? is the two lage washers per side the fix or just a temp fix for now. I have talked to my LHS and they also said the same thing that it needs more shims behind the sun gear but they were using 1/8 scale clutch bell shims.

I guess I got lucky because mine is smooth and as quite as my T4.

I cant comment yet on mine, But i do know that this isnt just an isolated problem and i wonder if its just a bad batch of gears or diff housings or just more shims under the sun gear.

Well I ran mine at the track tonight, after over 2 hours of hard running the only thing that happened was both mud flaps disappeared. I have the Novak Havoc 8.5 set up in it and it is definitely to much power but man what fun. I put the rear outer camber link ball stud in the outside hole and added 1 more washer under the inner ball stud and that helped a great deal with the loose rear end. Tires are not the greatest for traction, my son's Slash with stock tires had way more traction and control. I just have a light coating of the black grease in the diff and it seemed perfect. WOW what a blast!!!!!! I am not sure what class they will make me run in as I am getting a 13.5 this week I hope to run with the Slash's. I would like to try different tires, where can I get the stock wheel to mount them on.

the cost isnt what pisses people off. its the fact that the trucks are designed to be realistic. if u wanna run pins, run a stadium truck.

Mine too.. We had five SC10's racing last night in their own class. The biggest difference over watching a Slash race was how quiet the race was. The SC10's make almost zero noise. I like that!

Ok well as yoiu can see the washer with the grove is about to be cut and the other washerhas been cat and the sll one is the inner part of the washer.


AE didnt say this was a fix but it is a start. I assume they will be looking in to this as it seems that it will be aproblem. I think mine happened qiuckley due to the large motor I had in it. I do see this as a problem and I hope it will be addressed. But I will play with it and let you know how long this fix lasts for.

So it cut the middle out? What will two shims fix over one shim?

my thinking is the washer was wobbeling due to the slack in the diff and caused theroll pin to hit it and spinthe washer causing it to cut into the washer. by adding more washer it keeps the diff tight and should eleminate and wobbeling of the washer. only time will tell.

Well, After 20 yrs. of on and off oval racing, I have my first off-raod truck on the way. (Small disclaimer: I have an 1/8 offroad buggy, just turned it into a lm, lol) I'm looking forward to a change of pace this summer to kill time in between series races with my 1/8 lm. After reading all 30 some odd pages of this thread....whew..... i'm ready to build. Definitely going to take my time and pay close attention to the servo saver and the gear diff. I hope it's as simple as the 1/8 diffs. Were getting a class of these together at my local track, not trying to set the world on fire, just have some fun with no pressure racing. Hated to hear some of the comments made about the lack of rear traction, even on the straights, especially only running a 13.5 bl. I realize the tires will not hook up great and we likre that fact. It takes hp out of the equation and keeps cost down. I hope everyone can try to keep this class "realistic", i say that because the word spec freaks some of you guys out! LOL I know several die-hard oval racers who have there eye on this class of truck, for me, it's the tires being under the body. Sure, it's going to have slower lap times than the T4 or any other truck with tires sticking out 1/2 a foot from the body or as tall as the roof of the vehicle. But they look cool and handle cool. When i first saw the slash i thought about it, but after seeing the SC10 there was no doubt, time for a little off-raod! Hope you guys don't mind some oval racers joining in!

Thanks to all for the set-up advice. I will definitely be lengthening the rear camber link and adding AT LEAST 3 oz's of weight. I'm going to start out with grease in the diff, gold front springs with 35wt, stock rear springs with 25 or 30wt, and level the truck as recommended.

Some of the best looking paint jobs have been the simple ones on these trucks! Keep up the good work and keep the finished pics coming!

Sincerely, oval guy who will be coming back often for much needed advice!

(anyone try a 5800ss in one yet?)