The width of the area for the electronics is just a hair over 1-1/8".

When you guys talk about the longer rear camber link to improve handling ,what does that mean? In the instructions it talks about adding more washers to the ball stud on the rear brace to make a longer rear camber link. I have seen someone else say to put the ball stud on the far outside hole in the rear hub to make a longer rear camber link. Just trying to get some clarification. Thanks

Adding washers is a minor adjustment but noticeable.
Moving the ballstud on the hub is a big adjustment and is very noticeable.

In the kit configuration the rear end feels loose after cornering.
Lengthening the rear camber link settles this down a lot.

Well, still waiting for a replacement servo saver. Had to order one and it won't be here until Friday!

So far the hardest part of the assembly was gluing the tires. I've never glued tires before and it was a show. Managed to glue them to my fingers, my shirt, the foams as well as the wrong part of the wheel, and I'm still peeling ca glue (and a couple layers of skin) off of my fingertips. There has to be a better way. I followed instructions I found online, and I swear the glue dries so quickly, I can't get the bead set properly before it sticks to the upper edge of the rim.

I just want to run the truck and can't seem to get everything together. The servo saver situation is a pain. I can't believe that none of the local shops have a T4 servo saver in stock

I had an extra FT T4 and took the front and rear clips off and mounted it to the SC10 chassis. I was pretty excited about building this kit. I had to remove the front shock tower, since the SC10 is different and after I built the Diff and Transmission, I found that the rear T-plate is different, the sc10 transmission seems to sit a little lower. I then had to remove the shock tower, since it was different. The overall build time was about an hour, since I did not have to mess with the servo saver, steering, and turnbuckles. I am going to try this out this week at the track... I'll let you know how it goes...

On a side note. I put in 1000 wt diff oil, as recommended by the owner of the track that I race at. It is silky smooth. I also just reused the CVDs that were in the T4. As for the setup, it is the newest setup posted on rc10.com for a high traction track (t-4).

I run orion lipos, I connect the plugs and then lower the battery hold down and it seems to work fine.

Good luck

Gotta link to the setups on rc10.com? I can never seem to find them

Cuda,

How many washers did you add?

of course i got my ft t4 today to swap all the stuff on to my sc10 and it starts raining like crazy.... i guess i will have to wait a day or two to try this thing out now...
on a plus note it did give me a chance to order my new speed passion esc and motor. just dont tell the g/f...

What esc and motor combo are you guys running or going to run? I use 2S lipo and was thinking of buying the Novak Havok system because of price but heard they are having some issues. Is there any other combo on the market with similar price that is lipo compatible(lipo cutoff)? Thanks in advance

I moved the ballstud to the outer hole on the hub because it felt like it needed the bigger adjustment and it worked great.

It still needed to be more locked in so that is when I added the extra weight thru out the chassis as mentioned earlier in this thread.

If you haven't looked thru this thread, there are a lot of good ideas that work really well.
The stuff I went with came from some very reliable racers on here and at the track and proved to be exactly what works.

Flip back a few pages and you'll get dialed in quickly.

If you don't get to it I can kick down my set up so far in a pm.

Good luck.

it shows them both being the same number meaning they should both be recessed. the reason it only likes one is they show one up and one down in the picture.

Thanks Qfactor. Isn't 1-1/8" about 28.6mm? The pics on AE website shows the SC10 with a LRP Sphere in it, which is supposedly 33.1mm.

Any confirmation?? Was considering a LRP TC Spec or a different one which is about 40mm.

Cheers
Ian

Any of the standard speed controls will fit. Its just like the T4 only a longer chassis. Just mount it towards the rear so the wires will reach your motor. As far as the tire glueing I suggest getting tire glueing bands or large rubber bands to help hold the tire on the rim while glueing. Take your time and just put a few drops to start. Allow each side to dry before going to the next.

Why are people tearing apart their T4's for the SC10 build!? I have two FT T4's but there's no way I'm tearing them apart just to put a few FT parts on the SC10, there's nothing wrong with the parts that came with the SC10 kit.

As far as the build goes, it takes < 2 hours. The only pain is actually putting the rear wheels on, it's like they didn't drill the whole big enough. Other than that it's pretty smooth. I'll post pics once I get the body cut out.

The rear wheels were an extremely tight fit on mine as well. After taking them on and off a few times they are now easy to deal with.