I didn't have any issues. The steering horns that people have issues w/ I donno... I didn't fully compress the spring, but it does not hit the bulkhead either. On your round pins, it should be in the bag. I didn't hear anyone say they're missing parts...

I just have a question on this 'spider' gears in the diff. it's really stiff. Is this normal?

--> Update - as a quick temporary fix I moved the small outer shims and added them to the larger shims on the inside of the housing, this made the popping and clicking noises go away - and did not seem to noticeably bind up the diff action, hopefully I can find the exact sized shims as these so I can shim it up nice next time I tear it down - maybe the AE folks will have a more precise fix later.

The other SC10 running tonight did not have this problem, so maybe not every kit will have the problem. His was crazy fast w/ a 19T brushed, he did end up shearing the stock bulkhead off in a wreck.


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From my previous post:
"by the 3rd pack, it was making a definite click when the diff was working on track, when you hold one wheel and gun it it sounds pretty bad like badly stipped gears, I'm going to have to tear it apart tonight.. On the good side the tranny is Smooth and quiet w/ when diff not working (can't say that I'm going to miss that slash squeal ). Anybody else have this problem"

I received my kit today and started building it tonight...walked past that open box of parts and couldn't continue up the stairs to bed, had to dig in and at least do something on it. Ended up going for several hours, got the front end and diff/gearbox/motorcage all assembled.

I did a blog post about the build so far with photos, if anyone is curious. Have had zero problems whatsoever with the build, so far...everything has gone together perfectly.

One of the guys at the LHS today told me that the hot set up is to use the 30 degree castor blocks. Has anybody else heard this? Apparently it was someone from AE that told him this is a must do mod that really helps with steering overall.

I too think that I may of stripped my servo save bolt during my build. I am only about 50% done so far, but the instructions call for 2 shims/wahers below the spring that go inside the arm and it appears that none go on top of the spring...? After this step I was left with 2 extra shims/washers.. Should these 2 be on top? Could my problem be bottoming out the bolt, and not stripping it? Hmmmm.

Should be done with the kit tomorrow. Cant wait. I think I am going with a Xcelorin 13.5 that I just bought for the slash. I am a little stuck on pinions, all I have are 22's and a 27.. I guess I will contunue the hunt for a 26 and 23..

For the socal locs. Do you think this OCRC setup would work well at Camarillo and hot rod too? I know I will probably have to change set up for my local track in Santa Barbara which is more rough, loose and faster. I think though that I will be racing this baby more at HR and Cam..

Killer thread to follow with the new kit!!!! Thanks for all the info. Will have pics up tomorrow.

Jasun

Great thread for the new kit!!!

Im starting to put the t4 back together after stripping parts off it. I am positive the top plate off the sc10 is bad. The t4 rack hits it also. Im just gonna grind it down so the rack clears.

DK

Edit: Ok when I got it bolted down to the chassis it just clears. Im starting to think that the new plastic has a little more shrink to it than the old. That would explain why the new top plate works on the old chassis. Just spit balln here.

There's a whole slew of us local to CAM that are building these, but we haven't raced them yet so no answer on setup yet. I did buy the AKA medium inserts, but other than that I'm going to start out with the kit setup and tweak from there.

I am half way through my build and the only problem i have encountered was the center link on the rack hit the bulkhead so i used the dremel to shave a little material off of it but thats it so far. And the servo saver bolt is tricky i found that pre-threading the hole before putting everything together worked as i tried to do it without and it would cross thread the bolt when trying to start it.

Good point, I did that without even thinking, but that should help.

Did you have any issue with gears inside the diff? Mine doesn't turn at all, wonder if that's no good...

I have not assembled my diff yet but i have heard of a few people having problems with them. I was told by my LHS to use a 1/8th nitro clutch bell shim behind the large gear to take out some slope in the mesh of the gears. These problems they said were also a result of running some large turn motors but that should still not happen IMO. They have talked to Associated about it so i assume this is going to be addressed.
If i have problems with my diff i will just change it to the Ball diff and be done with it.

In the very first step they show 2 thin shims on the bottom and then a big washer on the top. The one on the top should be flush with the servo saver.

Mine stripped with about 3/32" still left before the washer would be flsuh with the servo saver. It wasn't cross threaded or sideways and was straight all the way in until it stripped. Not even a hint that it was going to strip, either. It threading in fairly easy and I notice that it wasn't compressing the spring any further. Took the tool off and the spring launched the bolt and washer across the room.

Need a new servo saver and I am definitely missing the small end rods that hold the outdrives in the diff gear case. I wonder if the pins out of a Slash wheel hub or Axial crawler would work here.

No issues here with the rack about halfway through mine now.

I would look for a CVD pin the right diameter, that is what I put in my slash when I sheered the pinion gear roll pin.

I changed to a 30 deg caster too. I threw in a 30 deg front caster block because from what I seen in slash class, they are loose enough already and I think this would help tame that down and keep it more stable. 25 deg front caster is better for low speed steering, but from what I've seen, they steer good enough already.

That is a good idea to pre-thread the servo saver though. I stripped mine out too, so I just ended up taking the whole assembly from my FT B4 and just used that instead.

now i am getting worried about the servosaver, is anyone using the ball bearings in theres. i recieved the bb and didnt want to use the plastic parts given , has anyone seen this with the bb being used .
as you can see mine is still in the box , when the holidays are over i will start my build .