SC10 Thread
06-26-2009 | 05:54 PM
#1758
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 145
I took both shims from the outside and moved them to the inside. I was afraid it would be too tight, but it seems fine. Drove the car around in tight circles on and off the throttle and it's fixed. Luckily i caught mine early enough too i didn't have to replace any gears. My only concern now is not having any shims on the outside between the diff case and cup. I could immediately notice after taking the shim away from the outside that it didn't turn as free against the plastic case. Cuda, Did you put any shims back on yours? I'm afrais the heat build up there could cause some melting issues on the diff case? But not sure if i was to re-shim the outer i would still be able to fit 2 shims on the inside. The pin obviously wouldn't go in as deep to let you access the hole. Guess i'll try it this way and see how it holds up. I'm running 5200 lipo's with a Novak 8.5, it's hooked. been neating up on all the xxxt's and T-4's at my local track. The only bad thing about this truck is the tires don't work on the rear, unless it's a super heavy track. IMO. I put some Bow Ties on the back of mine and it's so stuck now i can't the pu8sh out of it.
i didnt shim mine and its been fine for 5 months now with a brushless motor. the only thing i did different from the kit was add some fuel tubing instead of the rubber o rings. that made the dogbones tighter to the diff and it still moves freely. now i added the cvd to the truck and still added fuel tubing to it to keep it tight to the ball cups and still dont have a problem. just another option for you
06-26-2009 | 07:39 PM
#1759
my bad for this question but here it is I'm looking to upgrade my sc10 soon to brushless..i don't want anything that's gonna make this truck uncontrollable. so what motor should i get? looking to make it a little faster and still control it on the track.
just so new to these brushless motors.
13.5?..fast slow?
17.5...?
3300?
just so new to these brushless motors.
13.5?..fast slow?
17.5...?
3300?
06-26-2009 | 09:16 PM
#1760
i didnt shim mine and its been fine for 5 months now with a brushless motor. the only thing i did different from the kit was add some fuel tubing instead of the rubber o rings. that made the dogbones tighter to the diff and it still moves freely. now i added the cvd to the truck and still added fuel tubing to it to keep it tight to the ball cups and still dont have a problem. just another option for you
not having a prob in that are, just the internal diff mesh. But thanks for the suggestion.
On the motor, it depends on what tires your going to be running and how much bite your track has.
My 8.5 is easily contrllable with aftermarket tires. i almost want something even hotter, but don't think the truck wants to hold more than an 8.5, although the track would.
I think if you get a 17.5 or 13.5 you will be dissapointed and end up wanting a new motor. if in doubt, buy the hotter of the 2 your in-between on and gear down opr turn down your epa if need be. Then you have it if you need it without spending another 90 bucks. JMO!!!
06-27-2009 | 01:18 AM
#1761
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 50
Hi ive just got a RTR SC10 and after a good 5 min race the diff sounds bad,i pulled it apart but the gears all look fine,anybody have any idea?
And is they any beter tires than the stock set?guys i race with all have the Slash and they have far beter grip.
And is they any beter tires than the stock set?guys i race with all have the Slash and they have far beter grip.
06-27-2009 | 07:24 AM
#1762
Any tire is better than the stock tire at my track, J concepts goosbumps, proline bowtie's or slayer switch's, Slash tires.
06-27-2009 | 08:11 AM
#1763
06-27-2009 | 06:57 PM
#1764
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 312
From: Australia
i just got back from my local track and just converted the car to GT2 arms all round and GT2 1.5 degree hubs. put a pair of the proline M2 bowties and the car is now awesome to drive...so much fun now it actually handles.
im running gold springs in the front, and stock tyres on the front, i will upgrade to bowties soon but i have a little bit of a problem with steering.
the car has a bit of push into corners, understeering and i find im using braking to swing it around into corners. i want to have it a bit more precise in the front..
what do you guys recommend...shorter wheel base, weight, 30deg castor blocks, more toe, more camber???
the rear end is hooked now, just need better steering
im running gold springs in the front, and stock tyres on the front, i will upgrade to bowties soon but i have a little bit of a problem with steering.
the car has a bit of push into corners, understeering and i find im using braking to swing it around into corners. i want to have it a bit more precise in the front..
what do you guys recommend...shorter wheel base, weight, 30deg castor blocks, more toe, more camber???
the rear end is hooked now, just need better steering
06-27-2009 | 07:11 PM
#1765
I'm at the Nats right now and its a pretty good mix of SC10 and Slash. The Slash had an advantage today....the wind. The SC10 was having a problem with a double double and the Slash was able to pin it over both where we had to single. If this new setup works I'll post it after we're done tomorrow.
06-27-2009 | 10:20 PM
#1766
Just want to shed some lite on KidAgain's diff issues.
Lookin at it last nite we found that it is all bound up inside acting like a spool with no diff action. Feels really tight and grindy, guessin a shim went to pieces and maybe crap is in between the gears?
That's the only thing hurtin his truck and he PROMISED to let us know what went wrong when he finds out.
:
Lookin at it last nite we found that it is all bound up inside acting like a spool with no diff action. Feels really tight and grindy, guessin a shim went to pieces and maybe crap is in between the gears?
That's the only thing hurtin his truck and he PROMISED to let us know what went wrong when he finds out.
:
