i normally run VP Pro tires on all my 1/8 scale jammins but if i like the calibers i may try set on my jammins

Back up you missed it, Calibers for the SC10, I want to know how they work. Because I cant race AKA tires at a track.

Jammin X2 AKA I-Beams Med Hot Summer, Softs Spring and Fall, nothing will hook up like them. Slick dusty, lots of fluff track, Cross Braces-Soft. I ran out of wall this year to hang plaques on. And shelves too, for trophies, LOL. Lets not highjack this tread on Jammin stuff, PM me and I can get you setup.

from what I have found so far.

SC Caibers = HOOKED UP and any surface

I am running m2's up front and m3's in the rear

If I mount my rear shocks on the inside hole on the arm and inside hole on the tower, my outer outdrives hit the cross member on the arm and limit down travel.

The spinning out drives hitting the arm every time I'm airborne can't be a good thing! Is this supposed to happen? Normal?

Should I add more spacers inside the shock to limit down travel more? I built with the stock 2 spacers, about 2mm, and 5 spacers inside the front shocks. I could also grind the arms crossmember down for clearance. Anyone know what shock length (droop) settings are normal for this truck?

I could also move to the outside hole on the rear arms, but I was hopeing to use a near stock setup first.

my outdrives rub there too you can either dremel it out or leave it alone

it dose not effect my truck in the air or not.

Self clearanced is what I call that, the closest tolerance you can get

just got some new tires in the mail as well as my hyperion charger...
to bad its a hyperion balance tap and all my plugs are jst so i need to puck up a new board.

I just called Maxamps and got balance taps from them to put on the few batteries I had so they fit.

I think I'm going to dremel it out. It'll give me an extra 1/4" of droop before the spacers kick in.

Oddly, I had to dremel the same crossmember on my RC8 to use the optional hub ht hole.

AE kits allways seem to have a dozen flaws and tricks, allmost like AE deos this on purpose just for the fun of it, like finding hidden bonus levels in a video game or something.

i have 8 lipos i have to convert i rather spend the 6 bucks to get the other adapter.

so i just got my new tires in the mail mount em charge a lipo head out i i mean i taped a brick that lines the the neighbors tree and i broke a front arm and c hub.

The easiest way to stop the stub from rubbing is to take the outer hinge pin out and trim the arms cross brace...you can use an exacto or dremel. Make sure to do it to your other arms before installing them because it much easier to do off the truck...

I only had four. after fumbling for the adapter a couple of times I converted the batteries. Seems like some electronics store would have the plugs?

i had the right adapter on my triton eq but i sold it and picked up a hyperion eos606i and ill just order the adapter from a main as i place the order for the parts i need.

ordering the gt2 rpm a arms for the front (w/bulkhead)
and some strc front caster blocks.

i was excited to get my sc10 to run in the stock class at the local indoor track, i bought the rtr version since thats the way the class is set up. but was highly aggrevated when i pulled the trigger and the esc fried instantly. are the ae esc's junk? we are allowed to run any of the stock esc's from the other corr trucks, should i get something else?

I still have the original one in my Slash after a year and half having gone through 15 to 20 motors. The XL5 is good to go.