thats good to know, i will be building mine today and have some 1000 to start with , i have 50,000 in my slash and love it. i heard from 100,000 to 500,000 in the slash i can just imagine must be like a locked diff. maybe not all oils are the same i use Mugen oil so that may be different . anyway this is a great thread and have been seeing of some issues to look at while i build mine. if you all need a setup sheet i have been using these setups for the slash . just the oils and chambers really because in the stock slash class you cant change much, but the SC10 is totally a different animal
http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/t...dnats_2005.pdf

this will get you in the ballpark there really isint much difference in setups from buggy to truck , but you all probably already knew that

around a 17t-20t pinion on a 87 just depends on the track and how tight it is

Hard gauge speed, it's slightly slower than a T4 on the track in top speed. Handling is diffrent due to tires and gear diff, takes more work to keep it straight, had a few straightaway spin outs when my trigger finger got to happy.

Noticeable faster than the slash with equivalent motor, its a lot lighter and has a smoother transmission...

Larger spur: Not sure, I'd have to do the math, the 23 barely engages so that about as small as you can go w/ the 75.

FYI, The SC10 tires are larger than typical competition stadium truck tires. This means that for a given motor, a pinion gear two teeth smaller is required on the SC10 versus a T4.

I ran Mine yesterday for the first time and it wen't really good so good they would'nt let me run in the slash class main I ended up with the stock setup with these changes 35 wt. oil in the front and gold springs and 10000 wt. diff oil. I had a tekin 13.5 and RS speedo Boost set at 10 and motor timing 0 with the 75 spur and 25 pinion. ended up running the last round of mod truck and main qualified 6th in the A main and finished 3rd..

Ran a few battery packs thru mine yesterday at OCRC.

I'm runnin a 13.5 Novak geared starting at 26/75.
Way too much motor, too fast and too hot.
Dropped to a 24 pinion and was still super fast and still hard to drive.
I don't have a 17.5 so I'll play with EPA tonite.

Found it hard to drive fast, feels like when I switched to Lipo from NiMH and didn't add weight.
Skippin around, front end feels really light, wheelying thru bumps and flyin really far (lots of motor is good for that).

I started with the kit setup but did use the AKA medium firm foam inserts as advised.
You guys sure these aren't way too hard?
I had no traction and no turn in steering and lots of steering coming out of corners.This was on a dry track at first then on a watered track later. Same type of results.

I ended up copying the AE setup for OCRC from Kurt Wenger.

Main differences from kit setup were:

Gold front springs
25wt shock oil in the rear
rear hubs forward, short wheelbase

Still very twitchy, not enough turn in steering then too much steering from middle out.

I heard that a couple AE guys ran 1 oz of weight (4 x 1/4 oz squares) in a couple spots.
1 oz on the front bumper and 1 oz on top of the battery up front.

I'm gonna try this and see if it helps.

Rick, you got any thoughts on this?

I didn't change to the longer rear camberlink as in the AE OCRC setup, think it would help the no steering in and too much steering out of the corner problem I am having?

I tried 1 and 2 degree toe out but that didn't resolve the turn in issue so I'm back at 0 degree toe setting.

Thanks
F N

Yes... try the longer rear camber link. That was a HUGE change to make the car more balanced.

Also check your ride height to match the setup sheet. Raising the truck up was a big change in stability.

I will be out there Wed. night so either Josh or I can help you out more.

Nosed in on a step down too big for this thing. I hit the backside of the downside just perfect! This thing is just as durable as my other associated cars. I hit in a way that would have broke any car. It's a good thing i don't take this stuff too serious and i just laughed.

w-fly: Please PM me with your email addy. I have seen this and we are investigating. First, check that your case screws are tight. You may need to run 2 of the shims inside behind the sun gear.

I had the same problem until I tightened the servo saver screw another 1/2 turn. That fixed the problem.

Come on slowpoke your not foolin anyone! haha Hurry up and go get that chassis before someone else gets it first, then we can go battle!

I did some inspecting and I believe the problem with the steering comes from 1of 2 things.

1) not tightening the 11/32 size sevo saver bolt. It should tighten down completely to where the washer sits flat against the plastic.

2) not completely tightening the 2 button head servo saver post screws. Tighten them down until the steering won't move, then loosen incrementally until it pivots freely.

Let me know how it goes.

To do number 1 would strip the arm out. Mine is bottomed out on the inner arm. number 2 was done and with the kit supplied top plate it would hit. I havnt bothered to measure them to see what the diffrents is but after changing them it works perfect.

So far everything else is perfect. I have 95% of it done. diff came out silky smooth with no tight spots.

DK

Edit: I have to put the T4 back together and will try with the sc10 top plate to see how things line up. Pics coming soon.

Thanks K DUDE,
I'm gonna go set up that rear camber link right now.
Hittin the track tonite, I'll see how it goes.

As far as ride height goes, do you run level front and rear as the kit lists or are you higher?
You mentioned raising the truck up was a big change in stability.

On another note,
I found my rear axles where the dogbones slide in had "rub" marks.
They were rubbing the cross brace on the arms.
I checked to be sure the shock ends were screwed on completely and they still rubbed so I took a little material off. I did have 2 shims inside the shocks to limit down travel as in the manual.

Just something to look for during a build.

Not sure if I can make Wed. nite but if I can I'll surely look you guys up.

Thanks again, can't beat the online support!

kdub and/or Rick H - the stiffer tire foams appear to work better for groomed indoor tracks such as OCRC. Do you think that stiffer foams would also work better for groomed outdoor tracks such as Hot Rod and Camarillo (Freedom Park)? These tracks share time with 1/8-scale and get beat up a bit.