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Old 04-09-2009 | 02:24 PM
  #211  
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Default steering clearance problem

Originally Posted by jettaglxdriver
Mine was fine until I bolted mine to the chassis then it started hitting.

I had the same problem. Re-built like 5 times.

What fixed the problem for me was tightening the servo saver bolt. Mine seemed tight but i gave it another half turn. Make sure it is not hitting the chasi when you tighten it down.

Since the steering is at an angle, it will move forward when you tighten it to the chasi if the servo saver bolt is not tightened.
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Old 04-09-2009 | 02:57 PM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by jiggyb
Any help for a sindwinder 4600 gear setup? What is the 4600's turn equivilent, can't find it anywhere. Just tires left for mine. Thanks guys.
Im using the same setup so im also curious.
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Old 04-09-2009 | 03:05 PM
  #213  
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Im thinking of running the Velineon I bought for the my Slash, it was very fast in my T4. Put it 50% mode and run a 3S?
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Old 04-09-2009 | 03:10 PM
  #214  
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Starting my build now. I ran into the problem of the steering rack hitting the top plate. I took the old top plate off my t4 and it cured the problem. Now I have to replace the top plate cause I sold my T4 and it is top(plate)less. Ugg.

DK
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Old 04-09-2009 | 04:20 PM
  #215  
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i just got my sc10 today...
cant wait to start on it. i am looking for paint ideas now.
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Old 04-09-2009 | 05:01 PM
  #216  
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Just picked up my SC10 on wednesday and couldn't wait to get it running. It has a Novak Velociti 13.5 with an LRP Sphere speed control. Boy is it fun, fast and smooth. One note to anybody building maybe try to stay in the 10 to 20 thousand range for the diff oil, any heavier and its just like a locker in the rear.
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Old 04-09-2009 | 05:25 PM
  #217  
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The kit doesnt come with diff lube?

What EXACTLY do I need to build this car without having to make trips to the LHS?

Also, I am running a Venom 2 cell lipo, LRP Sphere, and im trying to figure out which motor to get, a 10.5 or a 13.5. I want just enough power to clear some doubles and whatnot. What is a good recommended motor/gearing suggestion considering im running lipo? SHould I use the smaller spur or the bigger?
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Old 04-09-2009 | 07:22 PM
  #218  
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oh yeah!!! my steering clears..
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Old 04-09-2009 | 07:28 PM
  #219  
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Ive had mine running for 2 days and everything went great building it. I'm currently running a 13.5 in it and think its a little much. I think as a specific class for this style vehicle to run in a 17.5 would be great and keep racing close.
I put 5000 diff fluid in the rear and think its a bit to thick for the loose conditions I've been running on just in case any of you have thought about changing from the recommended grease.
The only problem I had with the truck is that i broke the chassis at the kick up. I hope i can get one soon.
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Old 04-09-2009 | 07:44 PM
  #220  
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[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by CaptainHowdyt13
The kit doesnt come with diff lube?

What EXACTLY do I need to build this car without having to make trips to the LHS?
I just finished mine. A lot of people are changing diff lube and shock oil, but they give you everything you need to make it stock. 30 wt oil and black grease for the diff. Have fun!
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Old 04-09-2009 | 07:48 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by lightningspeed
Just picked up my SC10 on wednesday and couldn't wait to get it running. It has a Novak Velociti 13.5 with an LRP Sphere speed control. Boy is it fun, fast and smooth. One note to anybody building maybe try to stay in the 10 to 20 thousand range for the diff oil, any heavier and its just like a locker in the rear.
Nice looking truck. Thanks for the tip on the diff. Im gona start with 10,000 and see what it feels like.

Here is mine at the moment.

DK
Attached Thumbnails SC10 Thread-sc10.jpg   SC10 Thread-sc10-2.jpg  
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Old 04-09-2009 | 09:49 PM
  #222  
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Just got done running a few laps at the local indoor track.

The diff felt a bit crunchy when I assembled and reassembled it, I had hoped that some track time would break it in, but by the 3rd pack, it was making a definite click when the diff was working on track, when you hold one wheel and gun it it sounds pretty bad like badly stipped gears, I'm going to have to tear it apart tonight.. On the good side the tranny is Smooth and quiet w/ when diff not working (can't say that I'm going to miss that slash squeal ). Anybody else have this problem?

--> Update - as a quick fix I moved the small outer shims and added them to the larger shims on the inside of the housing, this made the popping and clicking noises go away, hopefully I can find the exact size shim as these so I can shim it up right.


OK on to the track report-

Its pretty sweet! definitely a better jumper and much more forgiving vs. my slash...w/ the lower center of gravity I was hardly on my lid. Lap times for me were easily faster than my mod slash running a 10.5.

Was running a 13.5 w/ the recommended 26 tooth was overgeared, and the motor got too warm for my liking on the second pack. Our track is pretty small/tight w/ big jumps so I went w/ 23/75 and it felt about right.

Last edited by w-fly; 04-11-2009 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 04-09-2009 | 09:56 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by PartTime
Nice looking truck. Thanks for the tip on the diff. Im gona start with 10,000 and see what it feels like.

Here is mine at the moment.

DK
10000 wt is waaaay to thick...if your not going to use the black grease..i wouldnt go any thicker than 3000....i have tried 5000 and 10000 and both way to thick..jst put black grease on the teeth..you wont be dissapointed...the diff isnt same as slash..
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Old 04-10-2009 | 03:21 AM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by 215slowpoke
Ive had mine running for 2 days and everything went great building it. I'm currently running a 13.5 in it and think its a little much. I think as a specific class for this style vehicle to run in a 17.5 would be great and keep racing close.
I put 5000 diff fluid in the rear and think its a bit to thick for the loose conditions I've been running on just in case any of you have thought about changing from the recommended grease.
The only problem I had with the truck is that i broke the chassis at the kick up. I hope i can get one soon.
What were you doing when the chassis broke?
 
Old 04-10-2009 | 06:46 AM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by w-fly
Just got done running a few laps at the local indoor track.

The diff felt a bit crunchy when I assembled and reassembled it, I had hoped that some track time would break it in, but by the 3rd pack, it was making a definite click when the diff was working on track, when you hold one wheel and gun it it sounds pretty bad like badly stipped gears, I'm going to have to tear it apart tonight.. On the good side the tranny is Smooth and quiet w/ when diff not working (can't say that I'm going to miss that slash squeal ). Anybody else have this problem?


OK on to the track report-

Its pretty sweet! definitely a better jumper and much more forgiving vs. my slash...w/ the lower center of gravity I was hardly on my lid. Lap times for me were easily faster than my mod slash running a 10.5.

Was running a 13.5 w/ the recommended 26 tooth was overgeared, and the motor got too warm for my liking on the second pack. Our track is pretty small/tight w/ big jumps so I went w/ 23/75 and it felt about right.
I am going to be running an identical setup in my SC10. A 13.5 with, per your statement, a 23/75. Were you running lipo? I will be running a 2s lipo with mine. What sort of speeds were you hitting on the straight?

What pinion should I run if I use the larger spur gear?
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