You mentioned you played with tires, have you tried Holeshot 2.0's when it dries out? I use those when it goes dry, and sometimes Suburb's when it is a little damp (indoor clay/dirt mix track)

I use 4 deg toe as well. Hooks up pretty good!

nitro , have you tried sweeping the track ?

Yea that does seem to help, but usually the majority of racers dont want it touched b4 the mains so it gets left alone......sucks so im stuck tryin to figure out how to deal w/ it. Fastest guys still seem to lay down good laps. I just see my laps are a little slower compared to earlier in day.

Havent tried the 2.0's yet but i will next weekend as they are the only tread i havent tried that i can think of. Megabites seem ok. Beams and suburbs work well untill the 3rd qual and they get loose

i got 3* toe plate and 0.5 rear hubs. Ima also using the carbon mounts on the rear hubs for the outer camber links. It just seems loose comming into a corner hard and then on throttle comming out. Tried playin w slipper too. Helped a lil. Just sicks when ur dialed and fast untill the main lol

I'm just starting to play with the 2wd SC10 any suggestions on setup options for high grip clay/indoors track. I'm running at West Coast in Cali. Also this will be for 17.5 and maybe 13.5.
Also is anyone running the big bore shocks from the 4x4 or will they fit?

been on the associated site w/ the driver setup sheets? There are a few high bite clay setups to start with

Thx. What about the 4x4 big bore shocks? Are they needed, will they fit?

The ft shocks are just fine... just need freshened up often

Thx. Nitro.

anybody running carbon parts on these things? i was thinking about a carbon top plate to calm down steering, and carbon arms to make it more responsive..

Besides the factory team shocks, are there any other good shocks to run on the sc10?
Thanks

IDK, I noticed that people break a lot of arms at the track so to avoid DNF I went RPM and haven't looked back. Not sure I'd be able to tell the difference of a flexy part vs. a very rigid part when it comes to arms. I have heard good things about the steering upgrade (STRC), that seems smart since there's quite a bit of play in the stock setup. What protective bumper/chassis protector (RPM/T-Bone/custom) did you decide to go with?

He must have been using the proline one. I just hate wheel wobble.
Im glad the AE version doesnt have this problem.

Move your rear camber link outside one more hole on the carbon mount (closer to the wheel.) Put 2 washers under the mount at the shock tower. Making your rear camber link longer & parallel should make it lazy & push for sure!

I like the 3* toe plate & 2* anti-squat. Using stock hubs so total rear toe stays at 3*.

Another cool setup is Ryan Maifields from the 2010 ROAR Nats.

As for your diff & slipper go to the sticky at the beginning of the electric off-road. It will get you dialed on those two items.

One final comment. You cannot drive (heavy throttle & hot entry on corners) the buggy the same when traction goes away like you are describing. Can you cut the torque/current back on your speedo? Could be this is all you need.