i know people have had problems with slippers. i have not had any problem with my truck(3 race on it)(i run my slipper all the way tight or lock as much as i can). but what i want to know is what part is everyone buying to fix it if it dose go out. or should i not worry about it if i run it tight like i do.

With the standard black grease in the gear diff I was pretty decent, although lacking on power steering. Shifting to AE 2K fluid in the diff was a night and day difference. I only shifted to a ball diff because I couldn't find a gear diff rebuild anywhere. Since then I have stayed with the ball diff, although I did find a rebuild kit after a 2 week wait and keep a transmission with a built gear diff in my parts box in case I kill a ball diff during a race day.

It says 1/8" not 1/8 scale.

your not going to have a problem when it is locked ,most buy the high torque pads and vented plates

I was worried about the same thing when I got it. I think AE could really have made a better description... Anyway, it fits my SC10, B44 and B4's turnbuckles.

So back to my clicking diff saga if we could. Got the rebuild kit from A/E, but if I build it with an extra spacer it binds to the point of almost not turning. Take the extra spacer out and it's fine again. I guess I need thinner spacers, but can I just run it clicking for now? Can't imagine it will really hurt anything, and A/E sent me a entire diff kit I can drop in if I blow this one up. Just trying to decide on 2 or 5K fluid for carpet offroad, seems to be conflicting opinions on going think or thin.

Either one is fine. I'm pretty sure mip makes the diff for AE anyways....

Ran at the out door track today and the truck handled great, 13.5 moter was pulling wheelies all over and I took the big A main with the win

threw some speaker wire on and I honestly felt like power delivery was smoother and more controlled, plus it looks great!

so does the diff fluid become thinner the more you run it? because I feel like after a few racedays the diff is not as stiff as it was..

Generally the fluid will break down and become thinner. Sounds like its time to change out the fluid.

i try to make sure i use copper wire no matter what.

yup, I really like 7k fluid in this, I dont see spending the 40 bux on a ball diff any time soon, Today my setup ran great, close to cav's indoor track setup.
mm, this stuff is copper i am pretty sure, it isn't silver like r.c stuff... I might throw it in my b4.1 I recently put black wires to that but I really like the way 14a.w.g blue speaker wire works. Defiantly smoother power and runs at the same temperature!
ill post pics..

I went through only 1 set of slipper pads on my RTR from February to October, then replaced them after burning up a set of pads when I forgot to tighten my slipper after changing a spur gear between rounds. That was not a problem with the equipment, it was a mistake that I made. My FT B4.1 and FT SC10 both have the V2 slipper assembly, and that new spring setup is awesome. If you do kill a slipper, just look at it as an opportunity to upgrade.

Correct Oval


oil in the gear diff changes , another reason why the ball diff performs better

trust me when i get an extra 40 bux, i will invest

grats on the win Guy, how many electric 1/10th entries were there yesterdaY?