Correct me if I'm wrong, but the newer kits came with more then one shim per side in the differential assembly?

What are your guys advice on converting to a hex adapter in the rear? What parts do I need and what rims will fit the rear (as well as the front to match the new style of rims)?

I am waiting to hear this too. I have ordered several pairs of these rims and they are still the old I am assuming because they are all the same.

*

The new style KMC wheels should still have 4 holes on the back side where the drive pins fit in, but the holes will be a half moon shape instead of a triangle. I put JB Weld in the holes on my old style wheels, no problems.

Tom Chang, you're correct. The newer RTR trucks (not sure about the kits?) come with a "diff repair kit" that has 2 additional shims. The original ones were too thin, so you just add the second set of shims.

Thanks for the info man.

BTW - The JB Weld trick doesn't always work.




*

clearly that wheel got loose before it spun, otherwise it would be cleaned off to the bottom of the slots. I have a couple of wheels where the JB wasn't all the way down in the wheel and broke loose and went into the wheel leaving the pin area un-reinforced.

To date the best original wheel I have is one that spun all the meat out of it and I filled the entire area with JB. When it started to kick I cut one pin slot out.

I have found that the fix for the ols style wheel is to take a plastics tree that is the same thinckness as the hole and cut to fir in the wheel holes, I happened to find the perfect diameter that fit snug enough...

I got tierd of stripping the rear rims...& bought the relux rims from Jconcepets for the Slash..put on some Hexxes..all done. I still run the Relux rims in the front for the SC10 just to keep a good all around look

i just got a kit and the rims are all filled in. in the middle.

my kit i just bought came with the harder compound tires and foams all around, this was a running change i didnt hear about, anyone have the same thing?

So is there any benefit to a gear diff over a ball diff. A ball diff you can adjust the tightness of the diff. The gear in the sc10 has no way to tighten or loosen. So the ball diff is much better. Does that sound right.

You can change how tje gear diff reacts by adding fluids, the heavier the fluids the less/slower the diff action. Ball diff is uaually used for 1/10, but my gear diff has been fine so far.

Curious.... is it possible to post a pic of how it looks like?

My kit came with only 2 shims for the inside of the diff case. I read somewhere that the "new" kits are supposed to come with thicker shims.... not sure on that, mine looked thin... so I added extra shims anyway, I guess that would take out some slop between the gears. The diff works fine, no binding, so I just gotta test it on the track this week end.

I have one of the original kits and have yet to strip a wheel but I've also owned AE kits for years and what most people do is overtighten the wheel nuts. Just bottom out the nut. If you overtighten the nut it will strip the nylon and it won't stay tight. If the nut screws on easy then replace it. After every heat I check the nuts just to make sure they haven't backed off. You can also buy these nuts at any good hardware store much cheaper than the stock AEs. Keep extra in your tool box.

Ok I am sorry about that. I just opened the kit and look at stuff really fast. My rims have the half moon cut out in them.

What is everyone running for grease in there diff

A thin coat of black grease seems to be the favorite.