Yeah, I would like to see Pro Line or some other company offer a 12mm hex and wheel combo for the SC10.

I am repeating myself but the axel nut can tighten on the shoulder of the axel before completely clamping the wheel tight.

Use a washer before the nut to be sure the wheel gets "pinched".
You will probably need a lower profile nut (preferably aluminum) since the original nut is very tall and heavy.

These are looking good, I might have to come out of RC Racing retirement this fall.

Good Idea with the washers.....gonna have to throw the Micrometer on the axle shaft and compare with the depth of the shaft of the rim to see how much "Pinch" there is.

I don't think the JB weld is as strong as 2 part epoxy I used. Friend of mine (Ken F) still stripped his on a dry track. I had epoxied mine and it held fine.

But now, it's the cross rib that's starting to rip.

Easier just to feel it bottom out metal to metal not metal to plastic as per usual.

I have been watching this thread for weeks and I wanted to share.

First off this truck is awesome, It took some patience to get it set-up but it will pay off in the end.

What I used:

FRONT:
GT2 front arms
30 degree front blocks
Proline Switch 2.2/3.0
silver springs
Loony Racing front chassis brace <- ty fncuda for the idea as he did it first.

REAR:
T4 CVD upgrade
T4 rear bottom plate
T4 Ball diff
green springs
Jconcepts Goosebumps 2.2/3.0
Racers edge 1.0 rear hub (alum fits T4)
28/75

Went to Race 1 of 5 in Litchfield, MI for the MORL series
202 entries

I missed TQ by 1 sec but my sc10 led every lap but one in the A-main.





Thanks to all of you and your tips. It really helped!!!

I sold alot of braces at the race but I have 3 left if anyone wants one. 15.00 NIP plus shipping
SC10 chassis brace

15.00 (3 left)

Does the 2 degree rear carriers work the best? I have 1 degree but still need a little more rear traction. It just seems like so much rear toe but if it works i'll go for it. Anyone try bolth?

I havent tryed the 2 degree hubs yet. Ive just been running the 1 degrees for now.

The build has been going smooth so far, but I have run into a problem with the pins in the rear hubs.

I know there been some mention of problems with the rear hubs, but has anyone had problems sliding the roll pins into the axle? It's not just tight, they will not go.

I tried lubricating it and I got one 1/2 in by tapping it with a hammer, but it would go no futher. When I tried to pull it out I noticed I crushed it!! A hollow pin????????? Can someone tell me the reason behind this? Are these crappy parts supposed to drive the wheels. Doesn't look good.

And no spares at all from AE it appears.

Any advice other than ordering and waiting for more pins and drilling out the axles? I expected more from an AE kit.

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Those holes in the axle are hella tight. The roll pin is designed to give and fit the hole, but the tolerences are too small there. You can take some material off the roll pin by sanding it a bit while chucked in a drill or dremel.

I was reminded how hard this was when I switched over to the CVDs I found in my parts box. Those rollpins are now useless and fall right through those holes Fortunately I had some extra ones on hand.

Ok do not drill just get a small punch. 4 hands and knock it out. You can get solid axel pins. I have them in most of my cars.

Great! Thanks guys.

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Did it one handed. Craftsman FTW!!

Still have a jacked up one to replace though.. ugg



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If you upgrade to the cvd's the nut will not bottom out on the axle shoulder. Just a thought. I know it sucks to have to spend more money but if it helps save your wheels it may be worth it.