I can see mrfrosty's side of this. I tried getting ahold of russ jones through ofna forum/amain forum- he did answer that one, 2.5 months ago. emailed him, for at least 2 months? so I did what any free white boy would do- spend my money with who ever can give me the costumer service. massive mods, 22 racer/ hell I was looking for months for parts here in the states, whats a couple 8-10 days waiting for parts? already been waiting with no response or success. and then it comes down to the warranty issue. It will only be warranted in the country you live and you must by it in that country. who cares, I can't get parts here,how the hell am I going to get it warranted? So I see the web site is down? closed? no matter massive mods just got a new customer. as did 22 racer. got my parts from him in 3 days! I am really impressed with these engines and if it means I need to get creative in getting parts so be it. Do I think ill of russ? of course not.will I bother him for parts,help with these engines, no.

Are the rods from a G0 .28 6port the same as the Go .21's? What head shims and how many need to be in a .28 6 port? Is there a turbo button available for the .28? Where can I get one? Whats a recomended pipe to run with it and does anyone know if a AE/TTR 2035 will work well in a .28 6 port?

Thanks

Thanks guys, i got my hands on s 2047 with std header, which header is the longer. the SH 2060 pipe seems to rev a bit highter but never checked the economy. once I got the tune and header right on the 2047 I want to spend more time with the 2060.

22Racer.. I received my Go conrod; thanks for the fast shipping!

I have question regarding when exactly to change it. Some say to just blindly change it at 2-3 gallons while others say check for slop in the bushing. I'd rather change it when it needs it rather than just blindly swapping it. Can you feel the slop in the pin/bushing with the engine mounted in the car? I am wondering if I push the piston by hand to TDC will I then be able to feel some slop through the flywheel or is just too small of a movement to tell. Someone please advise me on how I can actually tell it needs replacing.


One more thing... the Go 5-port rips! This engine has heaps of bottom end power which is awesome for truggy racing!

I believe all of the Go engines have the same rod. I would run the Dynamite 086 on the .28

I am looking for the 5port stock settings with the long lsn. Can someone help me out?

half turn in from flush on HSN one and a half turns in on the lsn from flush

Actually if it's the long LSN and the engine is broken in you leave the HSN flush and LSN 1.5turns in from flush and go from there with LSN. With new engine HSN flush and LSN 1 turn in from flush and in case it does not want to idle just turn in the LSN untill you have idle.

Just got a new 3 port from Russ, the carb on the front has a GO symbol in color this carb is nice. I havent seen this 1 yet, not shure which needles it has I dont want to take the shrink wrap off it till it gets to Powerhouse.Has anyone had the 3 and 5 or the 3 and 7 ports to tell me if longevity is the same for all the race .21's? I wonder because we all know that the 5 and 7 ports are a bitch to break in but the 3 is easier. So does that mean that it wont last as long? I know in theory it wouldnt last as long but I could be wrong.

With the long LSN motors, depending on pipe and fuel I think you will find you will need to have the HSN just a hair in from flush on either motor to get a final race tune. Probably around an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn in, but certainly no more than 1/2 turn in or you will have problems. Start of with HSN flush and tune only with the LSN until you have good performance and good take off. You may find you are now just a fraction rich at the very top end. Now tweak the HSN as described to get the last quater of the rev range nice and clean.
Before you do anything, make sure your idle gap is set to .7 - 1 mm NO MORE. Otherwise you will chase your tale all day and end up with the situation where you have a way rich bottom end and a too lean top end. You will get a "false" idle due to the very rich bottom end and the wide idle gap. Motor will run sort of OK, but will get hotter and hotter as the tank drops. Another tell tale sign of this is the motor not returning to idle when you let the throttle off going over jumps. The revs will just hang there, making jumpng rather awkward.

If you are experienced you can tell by just feeleng the slop, it is easier with the piston/rod and crank out. I would say after 2-3 gallons I would just change it, they aren't too expensive. You could keep the old one and just send it to me when you need a sleeve pinched I could check it with my bore guage.

If you want to put a 5 port in a buggy I can retime it to be smoother and get more top end.

Rex

Do you do this by eye? Or do you have some way of measuring the gap?

A drill bit works good.

Rex

Stock settings are FLUSH HSN and LSN

I don't agree with the above posts saying that stock LSN is 1.5 turns in... That is way too lean on my motor.

As MM says flush on both is stock.

You may need to go in on the LSN a little to get it to idle while running in.