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Old 04-08-2009 | 03:53 AM
  #6331  
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I would like to thank Mark from Massive Mods for the advise he has given me with Go motors, very willing and helpfull. Seems like these engines like a bit of temp. I have run and sold a good couple of motors over the past few year, thy are the best bang for the buck. Just got to change the traditional way of thinking when tuning.
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Old 04-08-2009 | 04:27 AM
  #6332  
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Yeh my 7 port regularly hits 136-140ºC (umm 260-280ºF) never seems to mind running at those temps... Only time I listened to our club president (eternal RB fan) who insisted I wasn't smoking enough and was going to ruin my engine from running too lean and let him screw around with the carb settings..engine ran like a bag of shit after and died 8 times in one 15 minute 1/4 final..so now I listen to myself and my engine and ignore those who think they "know better"...

by the way grizz1 I tried one of those manifold tuning inserts from ofna I bought ..the shortest one actually makes my 2047 header about 2mm longer than the 0801 header but the bottom end snap is way better..I'm around the 10 liter mark so I'm going to go for the full race tune soon as my wrist pin and clips I just ordered from MM arrive and I change the rod..Then I'll see how the top/bottom ends feel both with and without the extension.

Added an mp9 tank at the weekend too..nice integrated ring pull and fuel splash guard..the filler cap spring on my old one was getting very sloppy.
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Last edited by Gizmatron; 04-08-2009 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 04-08-2009 | 05:17 AM
  #6333  
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Gizmatron,

where did you get that HSN clock????

thx
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Old 04-08-2009 | 06:18 AM
  #6334  
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Originally Posted by Team Chambers
Gizmatron,

where did you get that HSN clock????

thx
http://rchardware.com/ great little indicator...
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Old 04-08-2009 | 06:52 AM
  #6335  
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Originally Posted by MassiveMods
Youll need a bog block conversion kit to fir the revo..
Yes I need the BB kit and upgraded clutch and upgraded pipe...now Rex was saying you can get the 6 port .25 with a spin start...man I need a link to that one!! I looked over the net and can't find that animal anywhere, it would be perfect!
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Old 04-08-2009 | 09:54 AM
  #6336  
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
Yeh my 7 port regularly hits 136-140ºC (umm 260-280ºF) never seems to mind running at those temps... Only time I listened to our club president (eternal RB fan) who insisted I wasn't smoking enough and was going to ruin my engine from running too lean and let him screw around with the carb settings..engine ran like a bag of shit after and died 8 times in one 15 minute 1/4 final..so now I listen to myself and my engine and ignore those who think they "know better"...

by the way grizz1 I tried one of those manifold tuning inserts from ofna I bought ..the shortest one actually makes my 2047 header about 2mm longer than the 0801 header but the bottom end snap is way better..I'm around the 10 liter mark so I'm going to go for the full race tune soon as my wrist pin and clips I just ordered from MM arrive and I change the rod..Then I'll see how the top/bottom ends feel both with and without the extension.

Added an mp9 tank at the weekend too..nice integrated ring pull and fuel splash guard..the filler cap spring on my old one was getting very sloppy.



You are right ... i race on my buggy a .21 7 ports stock GEN 4 engine and always my race temps have been on the 125°C to 135°C with a fine trail of smoke and the engine already have 6 gallons on it and great on performance. Same situation with my 4 gallon .25 6 port race i use on the truggy

cya !!
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Old 04-08-2009 | 02:57 PM
  #6337  
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
http://rchardware.com/ great little indicator...
Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2009 | 05:25 PM
  #6338  
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i have a .21 7 port and am trying to get the sleeve out tried the zip tie through the exhaust port and it didnt work any ideas?
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Old 04-08-2009 | 05:36 PM
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Heat it up and try ziptie again/.
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Old 04-08-2009 | 06:04 PM
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tried that ... didnt work
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Old 04-08-2009 | 07:14 PM
  #6341  
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If it needs to be pinched or anything you could just send it to me, I haven't found one I couldn't get out yet. I made a nice tool.

Rex
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Old 04-08-2009 | 09:37 PM
  #6342  
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Originally Posted by gravediggermaxx
tried that ... didnt work
Some of them can be real b-astards

Chop the head off a plastic toothbrush (not the wife's or girlfriends ).
File a small groove in the end where you cut it off. Heat that sucker up again and put the grooved end onto the bottom of the sleeve from up through the backplate, and try to ease it out by tapping the end of the toothbrush on the workbench whilst holding the motor in your hands. I know it sounds a bit basic, but it works. And I know after a couple of hours of trying to get that sleeve out you will try anything !!!
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Old 04-08-2009 | 09:46 PM
  #6343  
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Finally got out to the track with my new Z01-B and 3p-R. I had the buggy set up super twitchy and a sponsored guy showed me a more basic setup that suited my talent(less) level.

He also helped take care of a tuning problem I had with the motor. I kept incorrectly assuming that the extended high idle (was enough to make the clutch engage for about 15 seconds) after a full throttle run was due to high temps ... turns out he had to lean it another 1.5 turns to get it running well. Temps before were around 215 and after were 260.
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Old 04-09-2009 | 06:47 AM
  #6344  
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Well guys, just came from the 5th stage of the national championship in my country (6 stages on first semester, 6 stages on second one) ... my bad luck its still with me, but the performance of my cars its awesome right now.

Truggy. A lot of time without racing truggy class and the car performed excellent, fast and precise, i ended making the TQ so was very optimistic about A-Main (40 minutes). Just prior to the start of a-main i discovered that my engine was flaming out badly and thats very strange due to the fact my engine performed flawlesly just couple hours before !. I started leading the A-Main but just after the start i ended flaming out again, 2 more and i decided to stop the car not going back to the track. After inspection, one of the clutch spings went out from the nut that holds it so it blocked my transmission, DAMN !!!, i think its my fault as i usually use CEN nuts or OFNA ones and during inspection i discovered i installed an old mugen style nut, wich its very "plane" on the "waist" part of it, so the spring came off easily ... that was it for me ...

Buggy. During qualifying, my first round was awesome, VP PRO 803 Strikers tyres were awesome hooked to the trood desition on differential and suspension setup. I ended 2nd just 8 seconds behind the leader. On second round and after half qualy and behing oin the back straight, one of my shocks came off, the upper nut went out and the shock came off, i decided to call it and ended. Third round was leading out and i started to feel that on breaking my car wanted to spin out ... call it to the pit area and was the lower knuckle screw that came off ... damn !!!.

So, i ended qualifying on C-Main on Buggy, i started the C-Main (20 minutes) and the car was awesome and i make it to win that race, so bumped to B-Main (20 more minutes) ... this time the racing was more fierce but the car was very good so i managed to end second just 3-4 seconds behind the leader, didnt wanted to fight for the lead, just make the job to go up to A-Main. Now all goes down ... charged the batteries during the midtime, prepared all with my pitman and just when he switched the car ON, my receiver BURNED OFF !! (s3100 DX3R spektrum one) ... so, while i was hearing how the a-main started, i was waiting for my pitman to do something (if i go down the driver stand, i got disqualified), he grabbed my truggy receiver and installed on the buggy while i was trying to program it for the buggy lol !! ... ended entering to the race 8 laps behind the last position and fought hardly ... when i was 2 laps behind the last position i felt i was making stupid mistakes for the rush to go up in positions, and was not worthy so i called out ... that was for me, winner made 50 laps, i made 35 ...

Very happy with my equipment, tyres, car and engine performed flawlesly, just need little help of god on next races ... thanks a lot to CEN, GO Engines, VP PRO, AVID RC, Ultimate Racing, Carolinas RC and Upgrade RC for the inconditional support down here at the end of the world (Chile - Southamerica).

cya !










































[img]http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd225/patoconcha/RC2009/20090405_CACH_OFFROAD/yo/IMG_6174.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><br /><br />








</center>

cya !
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Old 04-09-2009 | 04:12 PM
  #6345  
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Originally Posted by gravediggermaxx
i have a .21 7 port and am trying to get the sleeve out tried the zip tie through the exhaust port and it didnt work any ideas?
Ok put your flywheel on

pre heat the crank case to about 80 deg c

put a paddle pop stick in the exhaust instead if the cable tie

turn the flywheel till it pops out

if its still stubborn spray some Inox spray down the sleeve

then do it again .. it should slide right out !

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