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Old 02-17-2009 | 10:21 AM
  #1036  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
and the KHZ extended quick change mount( the extension dramatically cuts down on flex by the spur/bell, thus making clutch bearings last twice as long. It is also a very nice feature to have with the quich change aspect.)
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i have one of these, it was on my truggy when i got it used, i took it off and was going to put it on my 2.0 but i cant see how its an upgrade can u explain what makes it quick change
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Old 02-17-2009 | 10:26 AM
  #1037  
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you can purchase extra mounting blocks and change engines quickly with out redoing the mesh, also if you are servicing the vehicle it allows you to take the engine out with out taking the bottom off also, just makes it quicker to service or change out engines
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Old 02-17-2009 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by madmedic860
recieved my 8t 2.0 yesterday from carolina rc. all zip ties broken, looks like it had a rough ride from where ever it came from before john got them in. havent even looked at the shock ends yet. turned the wheels and could feel the rear diff. grinding . it only does this in part of the rotation. took the diff apart and did not see anything out of the ordinary. put it back together and it did it again. loosened up one side of the toe/squat plate screw and it went away. tightned it up to where its suposed to be and it came back. any one have a simmular problem like this? any sugestions?
Run it. The gears need time to break in. You can loosten the rear screws(on the toe plate and the diff case) about 1/2 turn and run it like that for awhile. it will break in. Nothing to worry about.
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Old 02-17-2009 | 10:39 AM
  #1039  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
i have one of these, it was on my truggy when i got it used, i took it off and was going to put it on my 2.0 but i cant see how its an upgrade can u explain what makes it quick change
It is definately an upgrade. The KHZ mount uses a base mount and a set of 2 top blocks. You can remove the screws that hold the top blocks to the base mount and the blocks will pull off. With an engine mounted to the blocks, this allows you to remove the engine without having to reset the mesh. You can also buy extra top block sets to put on different engines. this will allow you to swap engines out without having to reset the mesh. Also if you have the extended one, it will cut down on flex, extending the life of clutch bearings. IMO it is one of the best hopups you can buy.
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Old 02-17-2009 | 10:40 AM
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i will give it a shot, thanks
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Old 02-17-2009 | 10:55 AM
  #1041  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
It is definately an upgrade. The KHZ mount uses a base mount and a set of 2 top blocks. You can remove the screws that hold the top blocks to the base mount and the blocks will pull off. With an engine mounted to the blocks, this allows you to remove the engine without having to reset the mesh. You can also buy extra top block sets to put on different engines. this will allow you to swap engines out without having to reset the mesh. Also if you have the extended one, it will cut down on flex, extending the life of clutch bearings. IMO it is one of the best hopups you can buy.
i always removed it from the top, so does most of the people ive seen remove engines. but that doesnt mean much lol....


so runnin the extended mount is fine with the tft
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Old 02-17-2009 | 11:32 AM
  #1042  
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Thanks for the replies.

I don't need the king headz motor mounts since it will be electric. I was really more concerned about things like steering knuckles, suspension holders, top plates, etc. I had an rc8 and I basically had to buy all the king headz stuff to keep it from falling apart the car was so weak (which is why I didn't buy the rc8t). I just didn't know if there was anything that constantly failed under normal racing on Losi's. I don't care about bling. I just don't want minor parts to fail and cause a DNF. I have a xray 808 for my buggy and it is bullet proof with all plastic for the most part. No bling, but the car never breaks. I was hopign the losi would be just as well made. I have alum servo horn, but was considering picking up the alum front and rear suspension holders. After reading the thread, I ordered shock ends when I bought the truck.
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Old 02-17-2009 | 11:53 AM
  #1043  
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Originally Posted by madmedic860
recieved my 8t 2.0 yesterday from carolina rc. all zip ties broken, looks like it had a rough ride from where ever it came from before john got them in. havent even looked at the shock ends yet. turned the wheels and could feel the rear diff. grinding . it only does this in part of the rotation. took the diff apart and did not see anything out of the ordinary. put it back together and it did it again. loosened up one side of the toe/squat plate screw and it went away. tightned it up to where its suposed to be and it came back. any one have a simmular problem like this? any sugestions?
my rear diff did the same. i took the diff out and took a shim out of each side. put it back and bam all good.
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Old 02-17-2009 | 12:18 PM
  #1044  
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Originally Posted by Edumakated
Thanks for the replies.

I don't need the king headz motor mounts since it will be electric. I was really more concerned about things like steering knuckles, suspension holders, top plates, etc. I had an rc8 and I basically had to buy all the king headz stuff to keep it from falling apart the car was so weak (which is why I didn't buy the rc8t). I just didn't know if there was anything that constantly failed under normal racing on Losi's. I don't care about bling. I just don't want minor parts to fail and cause a DNF. I have a xray 808 for my buggy and it is bullet proof with all plastic for the most part. No bling, but the car never breaks. I was hopign the losi would be just as well made. I have alum servo horn, but was considering picking up the alum front and rear suspension holders. After reading the thread, I ordered shock ends when I bought the truck.
The suspension holders don't fail or anything. they actually work very well, but it is nice to have the adjustability. I run the losi adjustable ones on mine. And you are also going to want the aluminum servo saver top. The aluminum top plate is not needed but it is a nice upgrade. I run the KHZ one on mine. I think the KHZ is nicer than the losi one because it has the little spacer plate( little plastic plate that goes under the front of the top plate) built in so you don't have to worry about the little piece of plastic. The plastic steering components(spindles and carriers) seem to hold up pretty well. And with the new 2.0 carriers you have 2 camber link options, so if you put the alu, ones on you would lose that option. The alu. spindles are nice though. And if losipartshouse.com gets any more in for $15, that might be something to jump on as they are usually $40+. Overall the truck is really tough.
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Old 02-18-2009 | 08:12 AM
  #1045  
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Finely done mine
Attached Thumbnails 8T 2.0-pic_0469.jpg   8T 2.0-pic_0470.jpg   8T 2.0-pic_0471.jpg  
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Old 02-18-2009 | 01:11 PM
  #1046  
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Hey guys, I'm new to this forum.
Don't know how much the truggy costs in the US.
But just saw RCmart sells it for $429
That's very cheap right?
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Old 02-18-2009 | 01:32 PM
  #1047  
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Originally Posted by Echelon
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum.
Don't know how much the truggy costs in the US.
But just saw RCmart sells it for $429
That's very cheap right?


check out shipping tho...100+.
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Old 02-18-2009 | 01:45 PM
  #1048  
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I just checked. The shipping cost to Holland is $80. But dunno about the US.
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Old 02-18-2009 | 01:45 PM
  #1049  
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Originally Posted by Echelon
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum.
Don't know how much the truggy costs in the US.
But just saw RCmart sells it for $429
That's very cheap right?
Originally Posted by Integra
check out shipping tho...100+.
Still a good deal if shipping is only 100 bucks.
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Old 02-18-2009 | 02:08 PM
  #1050  
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anyone try to put a 2.0 body on a 1.0 ? is the chassis just longer or is it wider also ?
 


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