march 21 at hcrcracing in Danville In. there is a cash race for pro truggy and buggy. check out hcrcracing.com really nice indoor track

Where did you see the king headz hubs??

+1 I just bought the losi ones. If I had known KHZ was gonna make em I might not have!

they will be out real soon within about a month or so

Any idea of the price?

I am getting ready to replace the chassis on my version 1 8ight b and am wondering if I can use a 2.0 plate or not. I do realize that it is overall 2 mm longer. Thanks

you can, you need new dogbones(rear) but i think thats all

I think you will also need a new side mud guards, Radio tray and linkage

Not if he uses the 1.0 radio tray. If he uses that, he won't need anything other than the chassis and rear cvd. If he wants to use the 2.0 tray he will need the tray, linkage and side guard. I believe the same applies for both 2.0 buggy and truggy chassis'.

Yo J-DUB thanks for hook up on the rear hubs, smooth as butter. Ill get you my front spindles this sunday or monday..

Yes you will deffinately need the linkage if you switch radio trays.. I got the 2.0 tray for my 8t and found out after getting it on that my old linkage was too short.. but I didnt order the new stuff i just took off those shorter rods and went to the hobby shop and got airplane linkage that was threaded on one end and cut it to length and put the rest back on from the old stuff.. .Works great and saves some loot. New linkage is like $16 I think.. but I too am going to get the new chassis and rear axle and the shock towers and body and poof itll be almost the same but a couple other things..

I just realized that I posted this in the truggy version and not the buggy thread... Oh well, I guess that they are close to the same. Now my other question is I have noticed that they changed part numbers for allot of the parts, but they look identical. For instance the front arms, 2 different part numbers but both look the same. Also the front and rear cvd's are the same way. I can understand the rear center drive since the chassis is longer, but are the other items the same? Also if i changed out the rear hubs to the new version, would I need to replace the cvd's or are the 1.0 the same?

Thanks again for the help. I did the math on doin a conversion and it was about 275, I dont think that is too bad.

The arms are made from a different material, so thats why they have different #s. As far as the chassis you don't have to have the new arms, but you do HAVE to have the new mud guards and rear drive shaft. I would get the new servo tray and likage or make your own linkage.

What does your post count have to do with anything? I've been in RC for 20 years, but I only have less that 300 posts. Does more posts make you uber cool or something?

Anyways who ever is paying $700 need to shop some where else.

nice work J-DUB
Did you keep the bearing .2mm proud of the hub. I found that of all the ones I have done over time the ones that sat proud .2mm worked the best. It takes up alittle bit of the play so there's alittle less pressure on the bearings

Hopefully Losi will pull there finger out and start making them as a hopup part. That way we won't have to spend so much time machining them up.

Anyone in the US be sure to contact J-DUB for this mid. If your in Australia and want it done I can get it done for you