I have enough tools. They sent out the shock ends, no questions asked. Not even the store I bought it from. They just said ok and asked for my address.

Yup you gotta get the sportwerks pull start eliminator backplate and use a starter box.

Guys sorry for disturbing the rate of the posts and your conversation..

I have an st-rr and i would like to know how the new losi truggy is compared to the kyosho .. has anyone had any experience with both or has anyone seen both?

u guys know about this?

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...ES-cln-/Detail

$15 for this is CHEAP, right? I think i bought the last ones. after i ordered, it now says 0 in stock.

wow $40.99 at amain or lhs good deal

What are the must upgrade parts on the 8t 2.0? I just ordered one and wondering what other after market parts I need to make it bullet proof.

get new shock caps, before you even run it replace them, for some reason how they mounted from factory are strippin them out. other then that you need nothin. its a nicely built truck..

i think it's more of adjustments to the existing 2.0 is the question.

1) adjust droop to ensure shock ends don't strip out
2) locktight upper linage where attached to the shock tower

those are things i have done so for

Droop has nothing to do with the shock end problem you can run you suspension with full droop and the shock end will not pull out. The problem is from who ever is doing the assembling is either 1: screwing the shock end on to fast and it's getting to hot and melting the threads or 2: they are over tightening them. Some have this problem some don't. Change them just to be safe.

You do need to set the droop properly after replacing the shock ends. Also, I would pick up the 3/3 rear toe plate. Other than that, it is pretty good.

Forgot, also loosen the sway bars on the bulkhead, they seem to come locked down so they don't move.

Most of what you add is for bling factor. I dropped a bunch of alum upgrades but I think it's more for me than performance. Must haves are alum servo saver, quick change motor mount I like the king heads exteended one, alum hinge pin retainers are nice but I think the stock ones will work I went with the fioroni ones and bling factor is off the chart, I added the losi alum spindles because I have dnf in a race due to a broken one, alum servo horn for steering is a good hop up too, alum top plate is a must also. I am trying the stock plastic braces and I like he added flex over the alum ones but this does take away frm the bling factor. The smart diffs are awsome too but not necessary just an added tuning value.

I gotta agree here. But for me the only MUST HAVES are the alu. servo saver top, the alu servo horn, and the KHZ extended quick change mount( the extension dramatically cuts down on flex by the spur/bell, thus making clutch bearings last twice as long. It is also a very nice feature to have with the quich change aspect.) Now thats not to say I'm not gonna put more stuff on mine, but that is really all you need.

Whatever you do don't put aluminum chassis braces on. This will significantly stiffen the chassis and take away alot of handling. There is a reason losi includes the Tuned Flex chassis.

recieved my 8t 2.0 yesterday from carolina rc. all zip ties broken, looks like it had a rough ride from where ever it came from before john got them in. havent even looked at the shock ends yet. turned the wheels and could feel the rear diff. grinding . it only does this in part of the rotation. took the diff apart and did not see anything out of the ordinary. put it back together and it did it again. loosened up one side of the toe/squat plate screw and it went away. tightned it up to where its suposed to be and it came back. any one have a simmular problem like this? any sugestions?

My opinion on hop up's/option parts is a personal choice. I run sportsman and am hit & miss at times with my driving. I made the switch to Losi last year from Jammin. The Losi 1.0's are the TOUGHEST vehicles I've ever owned. I ran both buggy and truggy last year and NEVER had one broken part on either rig, with the steering servo horn being the only aluminum part. The only thing I really did to them was set the servo saver. Those cars are bullet proof from the factory. With the Jammins I was going through a-arms, turn buckles, top plates, bent drive axles, and hinge pins.
I just got the 2.0 truggy and am going to run it in stock form after I adjust the servo saver. I also run a quick change mount to speed up clutch maintenace.