posted this on the s grid last week .. The 8T 2.0 Is a Ausom product! ran it out of the box and it was sick fast. Just a few things to get it dialed. 1st put new shock ends on they may press them in from the factory or screw them in to fast and they get hot???? any way new ends! A few longer screws some are to short, top wing mount bolts & tie rod end bolts (the ones on shock towers)bolts not long enough to hit the polly lock, Fix with longer bolts or lock tight. then truck is dialed. I think any shock ends should be used over the losi ends. I used mugen ones and offna retainers

hey guys, do any of u know the link to the xray manual that posted what happens when you change fluids in the diffs....


i wanna go to 3k in the rear so i dont slide out as much but i wanna know what else it will effect

quick question...
i have the losi eight buggy...not the 2.0...just wondering how you guys are measuring droop...im a touring car guy and we set droop over ride height.so if ya could tell me how to measure that it would be greatly appreciated.

thx much

I changed 2 things to keep the back from sliding out.
I went to 3K rear diff oil so that the inside rear wheel didnt unload so much.
I moved the rear hub forward so that all the spacers are behind the hub. this puts more weight on the rear wheels and helps keep traction

To measure the droop you measure the total length of the shock from the center of the shock standoff to the center of the bottom mounting screw. for the buggy you want 95mm front and 106mm rear. for the old 8T you want 95mm front and 110mm rear. for the new 8T2.0 you want 110mm front and 130mm rear

i do this afetr ride height is desired correct..?

correct and i think after camber, dont quote me on the last part tho


and thanks for the info tix, ill try that. i have a full day of practice on the new track b4 the challenge, so ill try just puttin the spacers in back,because i like the feel its just a little to much

thanks a bunch champ.

the other thing i do sometimes is remove the top bolt off the rear chassis brace where is joins the rear bulkhead
gives you abit more flex in the rear chassis
I also run 1 degree more negative rear camber. this has a reverse effect and lets the rear slide a bit. buts its more of a drifting slide than the snappy rear effect that i am guessing you are having.

the biggest reason for the back stepping out on you is the new car has so much more steering
if you want to eliminate this a little more try harder springs in the front. the shock setup has black 3.4 rate springs in the front. maybe try the white 3.7 rate springs instead. i havent gone this far on mine yet as i am pretty happy with how it is running. but i did have to do this to my buggy to eliminate some of the steering. i now run the buggy with the hubs all the way forward. silver springs in the rear and green in the front and the rear chassis brace top bolt removed

removing that bolt wont let the brace stay in place correct? so why run the brace at all

i tried 3k in the rear lastnight, i found it to make the truck push a little, i had to go to the stock tires to get the truck to loosen up and turn, it seems to work better with 2k

thats what i was thinkin could happen, im going to try movin the hub foward,

the brace still stays in place. it can just move into the rear bulkhead alittle more. have a look and you'll see the area im talking about. it works well on the buggy. but i dont really want to do it on the truggy. there is so much more chassis to taco now than there was before

i found the same thing with the 3K rear but for me moving the hubs forward and shortening the wheelbase helped fix that

I put 3k in the rear and I think it runs great but I also have front and center smart diffs. I'll have to try movng the hubs.

i saw a pic of trune's 2.0 and noticed that he used alum rear hubs. maybe that would solve the rear bearing issue.

I used to run the 3racing aluminium rear hubs in the 8T and it made the problem worse. There is no give in the aluminium so the bearing takes all the impact. i had to modify the aluminium ones to fit the 8x16x5 aswell. The best thing about the Aluminium Hub was that i never ever broke one
heres a pic of my old 3racing hubs. the one on the left has an 8x16x5 and the one on the right is stock