Found out why my carb was moving.
It seems that the metal colar on the base of the carb is held into place by three holes which are filled with the plastic (mold) of the carbs body.
Because of the different matterial and heat the collar gets loose from the plasic carb body and allows some movement.
It doesn't matter how hard you set the grap screw... since it doesn't hold the plastic carb body underneeth that metal colar.
I also don't know whether this affects the tuning in any way. This slight movement does create a small gap between the metal colar and the plastic body which results in a possible air leak from the upper o-ring area of the carb.

VTI-CHRIS mine did that about year ago on my 5 port and i just had too jb weld carb in place and it worked till motor finally wore out thnx will g

I don't want to do that on my engine...at least no so soon.
I did use a lot of red silicone sealant but doesn't prevent it from moving. Although it does seal it from air leaks.
Do you think i could use some CA glue on those holes and on the carb neck after removing the o-ring?
Will this keep the metal colar and plastic together?

CA will break down from the nitro.

did the sleeve and carb come out or is the sleeve still in the carb ??

How soon should I be able to turn a 7 port turbo over by hand? I've got little more than a gallon through mine and can turn it by hand, its still pretty tight, but I was thinking it would be a lot tighter at this point. I've always used a heat gun to warm it before turning it over, and its always been ran pretty rich and never over 250ish.

Sorry see post below.

Mine is about the same. Not that tight but still has pinch. I have heard the GO's loosen up pretty good after the first gallon but stay like that for awhile and will last. If I am wrong someone please correct me.

I had the same problem, one of the plastic bits fell off, I just used a bucket load of Hi Temp Silicone Sealant, then got a wee bit ticked off by the GO carb and installed a OS carb. That's a good find VTI-Chris, I hope the Go engine guys that are part of development team take this matter into consideration.

I never knew that those plastic bits could/would cause headache/problems.

I have a 21 3 port R that has around 3 gallons on it, the motor has been broken in the way Go-Tech recomended. My question to you guys is this....
Can I rebuild this engine with a 5 port sleeve and con rod or does it have to remain a 3 port? I was hoping to get more life out of it but that's nitro racing.
By the way, the 3 port had a ton of power.

I have run 5 different Go's in our cars, never had one issue with a carb. I think part of the problem is overtightening. I have had to epoxy a Novarossi before.

Rex

Does anybody no who has a 5port sleeve set in stock? Thanks in advance.

What Restrictors are you guys running on your Go .21 3-ports?? I have one and am trying to get long run times and installed 6.5 GO restrictor. I have it running well but it lacks power really bad. I have heard some people say they scream but I am thinking I am choking it down too much. My friends Sportwerks .21 was whipping up on my in the straights.

IDRC 6 and 7 mm inserts, awesome peice, great runtimes over stock inserts.

I'm facing the problem at the moment and was thinking to replace it with other brand carb. So I guess O.S. V specs carb could fit nicely and resolve the problem? No other modification needed?..Just buy and slot into the crankcase?.....If yes...I would definitely looking for O.S. carb.. Cheerss