Hi,

I currently have the .21 3 port Standard plug Go Tech. However, I dislike the look of the cooling head. It's massive, compaired to the "R" version.

Does anyone know what aftermarket cooling head options are available? Will the "R" version fit the Standard version?

Sorry for the rookie question, but is there anybody that can help walk me through the process of removing the carb? I tried removing the screw at the back but it still seems fairly well stuck in there and don't want to mess up the o-rings/seal or anything else that I can (and likely will) break! Thanks in advance.

ok first take the bolt at the bck out then gently twist the carb while pulling up on it if that dont work you can try heating it up. it should just pull out

loosen the screw a few turns then tap the retainer thingy out with the screw.

I am so pissed off I still havent started it yet. I had it spinning like a champ and had it heated up so much I melted the carb alittle bit. I am going to give it another go.

Did put some After-Run Oil in the glow plug hole? That seemed to help along with turning the flywheel af far as it can go clockwise (when looking from the front of the buggy). Just be persistant. We all went through the problem of initially starting the engine. Good luck and don't give up. Your persistance will pay off.

If it's a .25 6port toss the stock #5 plug and get an O.S lc3 with 2 copper washers and put in there.I couldn't get mine to stay running without the ignitor on with the stock plug.Also make sure your ignitor is charged and getting a good connection by checking it with the plug out of the motor.

Which part of the carb did you melt?

Comment removed: PTM ninja came to the rescue.

Try an O.S.#A3 glowplug. Are you sure your ignitor is charged?
Sorry, if it's a turbo, try an O.S. #P3 glowplug.

He has one of my engines, a 5 port T, the starter box was turning the wrong way, he has a RB carb on the way

Pretty dum huh! I put it back together and ran like 5 tanks through it and by the 3rd one it was making power. I melted around the Idle screw but it is still functional. Got a good deal on a RB carb so I should have it her tomorrow. I will try to get to the track early tomorrow and put as much fuel through her as possible in case I decide to run. Brian it started instantaneously, too bad I got too friendly with the heat gun LOL. What were those settings again for the RB carb?

We all mess up sometimes, i am just glad you got it going, but really, i would wait for the rb, if that thing sucks dirt anywhere it's over, i know it's hard but it will pay off in the long run like i said, if the RB gets to you before you head to the track, then it's all good, but for now just run it around and get some temp and fuel through it, and you will be race ready sat, RUN THE RB, don't take a chance. rb settings are below


To be safe start with this

HSN 1 full turn out from flush, you will more than likley end up flush in the end.

LSN, start off 1/2 turn out from flush, you will be way in after final tunning.

get a good race temp=220 to 250, after you get into that range, fatten the top about 2 hours.

then start tuning the bottom end, this will also affect your overall temp, so get a good feel on bottom and monitor temps till they are in the range, and your good to go, if you can, keep it a tad rich on settings at the track for the first part of the day, till the pinch breaks.

Jaz, the .25 hahaha

?

Well at practice today for the state race I was running my Go7-port and I ran a couple laps with a mugen with a OS Speed and we were right with each other down the straights everytime. He nor I pulled on each other! This GO is FAST! I even still got my break in shim installed!