we looked at it dylan
it was only about $2200 to do it
i was going to have lamington a run to cover the cost ...
then i though just pimp myself out more fun

gidday you have to oil your bearing before assembling your car
i use acer sin bearing oil

http://www.acerracing.com/catalog/Lu...aner-69-1.html

i remove my bearings after every seconed meet and clean them and reoil them

you said you were learning how to drive....are you hitting anything with the car? I know the bearings will take a lot of abuse, but they can fail with several hard hits.

i will let some of you know, i race with Grub, and we had a great battle at the states this year. my tyres were 38 on inside and 40's on outside. same track, same race, i started my tyres at 64mm rear and 62 front. after 30 mins i didnt measure them, but i still had a heap of tyres left. Grub actually measured them later the next day, think i still had a 0.8mm split and left to right were same size, so i doubt its the track, its more like Diff fluid weights. Grub has a set of my K Factory tyres to try out so he will soon see it may not be brand related either. good luck Grub. race ya soon

Favo I too have had one of the Xray bearings fail. This bearing was on the right side on the 2-speed shaft. The small bearing holder (the thing that spaces the bearing evenly apart) had decided to come apart. The car has had about 2100 laps on it (around 11.5 hours) of run time (maybe a bit more) on it. 1 bearing in 11.5 hours of use is reasonable performance given how much punishment the car takes. Overall I find the Xray bearings to be of high quality. The other bearings on my car are completely fine. Sounds like yours might have been damaged in a crash.

On cleaning, no hard and fast rule that I know of. I clean the bearing with motorspray and oil them with either Acer's Syth lube or MuchMore's bearing lube. There are dozens of makers of bearing lube. Any should be good but remember to use something that says it's bearing lube. Not all lubes are meant for bearings. I simply check my car before each weekend I run it and the car runs great weekend after weekend. I disconnect the side belt and push the car back and forth feeling if there is any resistance or if there is any squeaking. If there is, likely means a bearing is gone.

Also, don't forget to clean and lube your one-way bearings. If these die, they are very expensive to replace. I clean these often.

On ceramics, I've tried 'em. They are definitely lighter than steel and will lighten the car's weight if you use them. But, I had not found they lasted any longer than steel. I tried a few different brands (Boca, Acer, Ebay brand X) but found they did not improve lap times. I stuck with the manufacturer's bearings (which at that time was Mugen when I drove the MTX). Also, I found the bearing's quality wasn't due to material, it was due to manufacturer. Being ceramic doesn't mean it's good. It means it's ceramic. I'd say Xray's steel bearings are better quality than a lot of the cheapy brand X ceramics you find on Ebay. A couple of years ago I met 2006 1/10th IFMAR champion Keisuke Fukuda at the Asia Mugen Cup and asked if he used ceramics. He said no. He used Mugen (which are steel). If you've never tried ceramics, I'd say give a set a try and make up your own mind. In my opinion I thought the best of the bunch based on price vs. quality was Acer.

Good luck.

Rob

OK. NT1 Experts......

You've been asked a thousand times I know................here goes.
Time does not allow a thorough look into this thread's multitude of pages....sorry.

Once getting the NT1 (08) What upgrades help?
I'm interested in parts that will,
1. Lighten the drive train.
2. Replace parts which wear fast.
3. Help in set-up, maintenence or stiffness of the car.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
British Menace

The yellow clutch shoe is the only option part worth buying, other than that just the std tuning items such as springs, oils and maybe the one-way(depending on the tracks you race at) are needed.

Mark

Do not worry about breaking stuff unless you like to hit the wall all day long you will not break anything.. I have hit the wall very hard and the only thing is pop a dog bone.. If I where you get the CVD thats a must.. Lets put it this way I was at the track once and a guy from the track had the new F1 from serpent and he try to cut me off in a turn and I smack him by the middle of his F1 and the F1 was out for the day but my NT1 was still running fine and I hit the wall that same day a lot. I have gotten better in my driving so I do not hit the wall that much anymore..

This is my suggestions :

This is what I use in my car.

1. Buy alluminium wheel Hex, 0.00mm and + 0.75mm
2. Use longer screws ( increase the screw length by 2mm and 4mm from original length. Measure depth with toothpick. ). Use titanium screws to keep the weight the same. Longer screws will strengthen your car chassis against flexes. Possibly less chance of getting 2nd gear broken syndrome . Chassis will become stiffer too. Warning : understeering is highly likely...... need new setup to overcome understeering, eg. two holes damper piston at front, one hole piston damper at rear; 37 shore front, 40 shore rear; 2.6mm rear stabiliser.
3. Buy lightweight clutchbell with cooling vent.
4. Buy Alluminium damper body. ( in this case, I use Mugen MTX4 damper body ).

including (lightweight parts)

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...0224aab705eba6

Thankyou Mark for that. I know it's a good car. I just wonder how much people have done to the car, themselves to make it so?...Thanks again.

Wow......strong car! Thanks for the imput. I don't seam to crash that often but good to know the car will stand up to a bang or two.....lol.

Nice. Good idea on the longer screws. I like that idea. Always been a fan of a strong chassis, rigid.
I was going to ask about the plastic shocks. Somewhat suprising to me a car of this calibur and promoted as a "Luxury" touring car has these and not aluminum? They must work I take it? Do the factory drivers use these stock shocks? Or do they upgrade?
All good stuff. Thanks for the input asw.

Thanks for the link. How is the car on weight in stock form?
I see a good many using very heavy oil in the rear diff' (80,000WT) and using sometimes 2 shore rating's higher at the rear on tires? Is this due to the car needing more steering?

Again, thanks for everyone's input. Looking seriously at getting one soon.
Does the 08 come with front CVD's only?

Regards all,
British Menace

In stock form with just rims on, my car was too light weighing in at around 1690g. The 08 comes with front CVD'S and rear Dogbone's. For some set-ups for 301 raceway you probably saw us running 40s tires up front and 45s in the rear. This is due to the way the lay out is, and to give the car more turn-in and corner speed. Many other chassis out there were running a large split for the same reason Xray's 80'000 diff oil feels more like a kyosho 40,000 or 30,000. The rates are different. Also, although Xray makes aluminum shocks, the stock shocks do work great and are very smooth. Many factory drivers are still running the plastics.

Locally I have the fewest option parts on my car and it is always the fastest NT1 at all regional tracks. When others were quick to buy option parts I was careful to watch for any improvement in the their cars or pace and in most cases they got slower or less consistent, none made anyone faster and most found their way back to the pitbox.

The aluminum shocks were probably the biggest let down for most of the guys about, 6-7 locals bought but they have all gone back to the plastics.

Mark

I agree that most of the aftermarket hop-ups/option parts have don't little if nothing for the car. I even removed my own brand of carbon fiber parts. And as for the aluminum shocks, they are more for the durability issue, I had an incident in the last major race that took me from a qualifier that would have been in the top group, but the plastic shock got crushed. The aluminum would have probably held up.

If you need mugen seiki part number for NT1's shock damper alternative, please review the copy of mtx4's manual in this attachment.