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Old 08-02-2007, 09:28 AM   #1651
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Besides the 4mm chassis, multidiff and different springs, what other options would you guys recommend or have tried on the NT1?
D said it all...
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Old 08-02-2007, 11:32 AM   #1652
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So yesterday I ordered an NT1, 4mm chassis and the multidiff and they're on their way.

Now I'm shopping for an engine\muffler combo. I'm leaning on going with the Max Power SL3 Combo, but now I see there is a Max Power XL3 and Max Power 312X on their site (www.rcmaxpower.com). And I notice the Max Power engines are on the higher end of the price spectrum. Remember, I'm a noob to gas racing so I have no idea about engines. What other engine\muffler combo's out there offer the same performance and quality as the Max Power engines at a lower price? I've been looking at Ninja's and Mega's as well.
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Old 08-02-2007, 11:50 AM   #1653
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As a noob I started out with the OS TZ 12 with a Skyline VR12 Plus pipe. This is what was recommended to me as the TZ is super reliable and super easy to tune.

My must have upgrades were the front CVDs, hard and wide bumper, spring kit and Multi-diff.
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Old 08-03-2007, 12:37 AM   #1654
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Hmm..

NT1 and front cvd, thatīs all what you need
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:49 AM   #1655
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Can someone please direct me on which battery pack lowers the the tank, some people say AAA packs, and if its AAA what configuration, I canít seem to find any AAA packs, I was also looking at the muchmore lipo pack it says you can charge it with any charger which is good because I donít have a lipo charger and its a allot lighter, thanks in advanced.
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Old 08-03-2007, 04:15 AM   #1656
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Can someone please direct me on which battery pack lowers the the tank, some people say AAA packs, and if its AAA what configuration, I can’t seem to find any AAA packs, I was also looking at the muchmore lipo pack it says you can charge it with any charger which is good because I don’t have a lipo charger and its a allot lighter, thanks in advanced.


Size : 83 x 28 x 13mm <---- only 13mm height !!
Weight : 61 grams
Capacity : 1300MaH lipo batts

BTW, need this.... to step down the voltage from 7.4V to 6V.

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Old 08-03-2007, 07:24 AM   #1657
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I think we need to answer Apex question with a "What size Track is it??"

Our home track has a 250ft straightaway, with the best traction on the EAST Coast!! So a motor that is able to get down the straight and has all around power is what should be recommended.

Novarossi Plus 12 for me, Modded by Murnan is what im running, and i can make run time!!! With a track this size, most reach the 4:30 mark for a splash and go!!!

Apex, i very pleased with my motor, but like you mentioned, it is costly... you need to just come out and see whats up!!!

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Old 08-03-2007, 07:31 AM   #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Now I'm shopping for an engine\muffler combo. I'm leaning on going with the Max Power SL3 Combo, but now I see there is a Max Power XL3 and Max Power 312X on their site (www.rcmaxpower.com). And I notice the Max Power engines are on the higher end of the price spectrum. Remember, I'm a noob to gas racing so I have no idea about engines. What other engine\muffler combo's out there offer the same performance and quality as the Max Power engines at a lower price? I've been looking at Ninja's and Mega's as well.
Anything by Murnan will be FAST!

However, I have to recommend the SL3/2602 combo. You can't go wrong with it.
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:52 PM   #1659
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i agree with team gp i use this combo on a track that has a 220 ft straight and i have no problem making 5 min. and its very fast
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Old 08-04-2007, 11:03 AM   #1660
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Can somebody help me quick.....

Here is my problem today :

After completing heats today, my car come back to pit with very high engine rpm....... My mechanic pick up the car and I can see the wheels are still turning.

What should I do ?? I'm not very expert in engine tuning ....... I'm lack of self confidence at the moment.

Tommorow I have the last Heat and then Final.
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Old 08-04-2007, 12:43 PM   #1661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Can somebody help me quick.....

Here is my problem today :

After completing heats today, my car come back to pit with very high engine rpm....... My mechanic pick up the car and I can see the wheels are still turning.

What should I do ?? I'm not very expert in engine tuning ....... I'm lack of self confidence at the moment.

Tommorow I have the last Heat and then Final.
Dude.. What engine?!!! Also, what temp is it coming in at?

Seems to me like your idle and/or LSN is too lean. This is what I would do...
  • On the starter box, let the engine come up to about 200F.
  • Richen the idle 1 hour at a time, until the engine dies and then lean it so that it idles for at least 15 seconds or more.
  • Once it idles for 15 seconds or more, start working on adjusting the LSN. Blip the throttle and it should come back down to idle right away. If it doesn't, richen the LSN 1 hour at a time until it does.
  • Put the car on the track, run two laps and bring the car in. Blip the throttle and see if the idle comes down right away. Two more laps - check. Two more laps - check. If you're idle isn't running away on you, you're probably good to go. Also make sure your temp is below 260. Anything above that and you probably need to richen your HSN.
  • If the idle comes back down right away and your temp is below 240, you probably need to lean your HSN - i.e. retune your HSN.
These are just some rough settings to get you on the right track. Fine tune the LSN and HSN to get the best performance. As long as your idle comes back down when you blip the throttle, you should be okay.

Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps. Good luck tomorrow.
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Old 08-04-2007, 04:24 PM   #1662
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Originally Posted by D-nicest View Post
For most of these options it just matters where your racing, they don't neccesarilly(spelling) make the car better, they are just different tuning options to further dial your car with. Other than what you've mentioned I'd invest in a rear adjustable sway bar, which I'm running now and also front cvd's, which I'm also running. Although I havn't had any issues with the stock ones, aluminum hexes are a plus too.
D YGPM
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Old 08-04-2007, 04:30 PM   #1663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Can somebody help me quick.....

Here is my problem today :

After completing heats today, my car come back to pit with very high engine rpm....... My mechanic pick up the car and I can see the wheels are still turning.

What should I do ?? I'm not very expert in engine tuning ....... I'm lack of self confidence at the moment.

Tommorow I have the last Heat and then Final.
Also check your clutch bearings! I had a similar thing happen.
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Old 08-04-2007, 04:37 PM   #1664
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And thrust bearing!
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Old 08-05-2007, 06:53 PM   #1665
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Originally Posted by AlanL View Post
i have TQ two weeks in a row now using the rear brake one way on my nt1 . i have found it allows more mid turn speed and has helped some with tire wear . the car is also more stable coming on or off throttle in all stages of a turn , entry ,mid corner and exit .

the car tranfers less weight to the front off throttle but with a few set up changes it was no problem and the car became easier to drive . tons and tons of the right kind of steering

so to update my experiment with the rear brake pulley oneway went really well , more testing all through next week at the mugen cup race at speedworld.

cheers

Hi,I was wandering how hard was it to make the one way fit the xray?.I would like to try it...Any info would be appreciated...Thanks
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