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Old 01-16-2008, 09:34 PM   #2401
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geez dude, you're getting a bit too exact there. a dirty car might counteract that small difference anyway.

i'm also installing a lipo pack and a regulator. i want to use a brass battery tray but i'm trying to source a manufacturer locally first. the ybslow stuff is 60 us delivered which is just too much cash for a peice of brass IMO, although their spools and other stuff looks like good value
Yeah the lipo is nice touch already did that with the brass YBSlow battery tray
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:08 PM   #2402
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you guys have weights on anything else that I might ponder getting? (figuring out grams per dollar lol) and it seems its about 10 bucks per gram for weight savings from some of the factory parts i see lol.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:20 PM   #2403
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I have seen people get the lightweight parts, lipos, trays, low profile servos, etc and only gain 2 tenths of a second and get beat by stock cars. These are racers that competed here at the Nationals.

I personally think the money is better spent on tires, motors, fuel, bodies
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:26 PM   #2404
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i am not really trying to lighten the car to the point where the car is illegal weight, i am trying more so to create a lower cg by lightening the top of the car and placing the weight down low where i'd like it. The other thing i like to do is to lighten rotational parts creating faster acceleration
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:51 PM   #2405
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I know, I am not trying to make my car down to 2 ozs. My car is right side heavy, so I want to make it more left biased. Not like the usual kids. My plan is things like hollow main shaft(two speed), mid shaft, screws etc. I just want to have my car be at legal weight with bare wheels and body (car rtr). and balanced right to left without buying all new servos and what not. I do plan on throwing in my micro spektrum rx which shaves 5 grams. now i just have 50 or so to go? (I havent had a chance to weigh bare jaco wheels) car is 1779 with painted body, air HS/HT servos, PT etc. So 49 grams to go. I know it won't make me much faster. But I think the car will be better under braking with the diffs if the weight is equil. (put it this way, on my real race cars i throw a fit if the corner weights aren't within 5 pounds). so if the car is underweight. I can also move weight around to where I want it. technical track forward, euro style ---> back. Without just throwing in a lipo. What parts do you guys have weights on and are willing to share?

-Patrick
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:07 PM   #2406
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I know, I am not trying to make my car down to 2 ozs. My car is right side heavy, so I want to make it more left biased. Not like the usual kids. My plan is things like hollow main shaft(two speed), mid shaft, screws etc. I just want to have my car be at legal weight with bare wheels and body (car rtr). and balanced right to left without buying all new servos and what not. I do plan on throwing in my micro spektrum rx which shaves 5 grams. now i just have 50 or so to go? (I havent had a chance to weigh bare jaco wheels) car is 1779 with painted body, air HS/HT servos, PT etc. So 49 grams to go. I know it won't make me much faster. But I think the car will be better under braking with the diffs if the weight is equil. (put it this way, on my real race cars i throw a fit if the corner weights aren't within 5 pounds). so if the car is underweight. I can also move weight around to where I want it. technical track forward, euro style ---> back. Without just throwing in a lipo. What parts do you guys have weights on and are willing to share?

-Patrick
exactly well said. the one thing you're forgetting though is by putting a lipo pack you are able to lower your gas tank and create a lower cg as well as your able to put counter weights on the exhaust side to get left side right side balance
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:43 PM   #2407
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Right, but when you have enough nimh 1600 packs to sink a battle ship. lipo doesnt sound that great. Also at some of the tracks I run at, they are still schetched out by lipo. hence not legal. I run up to three hour enduros, so the stability, combined with the tried and true 1600 packs works for me. the weight is centered, and pretty low. three mm of gas tank drop wont make that much diffrence. If I was worried about CG I would address the engine first ie mag cooling head. And most of the lipo guys are doing things like getting a brass battery holder that costs more than the clutch parts that i planned on lightening which would make a bigger diffrence overall. I am not knocking lipo and nitro. I just don't feel the need to buy more electronics *keep in mind i have 2 NT1's and one more possibly on the way* so new servos, new lipo, lipo charger, lipo bec. I Think I might be better served chucking a couple parts into the mill. and others into the lathe and making some parts lighter- free. Just trying to find some benchmarks.

Patrick
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Old 01-17-2008, 02:20 AM   #2408
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Don't get me wrong, I smell what your cookin... But I still want to see what each alternate part weighs, so I can see if it makes it worth buying.. like a 50 dollar part that i loose 1 gram off doesnt do me much good.. So I am making a spreadsheet of all the parts i have that i am thinking about modifying or getting lighter parts.

cheers,

Patrick
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:21 AM   #2409
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Don't get me wrong, I smell what your cookin... But I still want to see what each alternate part weighs, so I can see if it makes it worth buying.. like a 50 dollar part that i loose 1 gram off doesnt do me much good.. So I am making a spreadsheet of all the parts i have that i am thinking about modifying or getting lighter parts.

cheers,

Patrick
I hear what your saying. Well i'll try and let you know what the weight difference is on on some of the factory parts when i get a chance i am in no rush though to take the car apart yet. I'll be able to tell you the weight of the lightweight 1st and 2nd gear housing(I can tell you right now though that for how much the part costs your better off taking the dremel and lightening your own) I'll also be able to let you know what the lightweight brake pulley weighs just not yet. I'll also have some new lightweight 2speed and middle shaft on the way but they are not here yet, when they get here thats when i'll take the car apart and thats when i'll be able to let you know weights
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:42 AM   #2410
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i only hop up the car because i enjoy seeing it look different, and i like bragging about how my drivetrain is .004grams lighter and hence 0.0005 sec of a lap quicker out of corners lol

plus i need to make it look even more bling than my old mtx4R
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:50 AM   #2411
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HEY! take that crap back to the mugen forum, where it belong
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:06 AM   #2412
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
I know, I am not trying to make my car down to 2 ozs. My car is right side heavy, so I want to make it more left biased. Not like the usual kids. My plan is things like hollow main shaft(two speed), mid shaft, screws etc. I just want to have my car be at legal weight with bare wheels and body (car rtr). and balanced right to left without buying all new servos and what not. I do plan on throwing in my micro spektrum rx which shaves 5 grams. now i just have 50 or so to go? (I havent had a chance to weigh bare jaco wheels) car is 1779 with painted body, air HS/HT servos, PT etc. So 49 grams to go. I know it won't make me much faster. But I think the car will be better under braking with the diffs if the weight is equil. (put it this way, on my real race cars i throw a fit if the corner weights aren't within 5 pounds). so if the car is underweight. I can also move weight around to where I want it. technical track forward, euro style ---> back. Without just throwing in a lipo. What parts do you guys have weights on and are willing to share?

-Patrick
When I built my car the left/right balance was off by about 2oz dry. What I did was replace the std 2/3A pack with a 5 cell AAA pack. Since the AAA pack hangs over the left side of the battery compartment it reduced my dry ballast requirement to .5oz and allowed me to drop the tank as low as possible.

Mark
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:11 AM   #2413
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When I built my car the left/right balance was off by about 2oz dry. What I did was replace the std 2/3A pack with a 5 cell AAA pack. Since the AAA pack hangs over the left side of the battery compartment it reduced my dry ballast requirement to .5oz and allowed me to drop the tank as low as possible.

Mark
Sounds interesting...any pics?
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:01 AM   #2414
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I hear what your saying. Well i'll try and let you know what the weight difference is on on some of the factory parts when i get a chance i am in no rush though to take the car apart yet. I'll be able to tell you the weight of the lightweight 1st and 2nd gear housing(I can tell you right now though that for how much the part costs your better off taking the dremel and lightening your own) I'll also be able to let you know what the lightweight brake pulley weighs just not yet. I'll also have some new lightweight 2speed and middle shaft on the way but they are not here yet, when they get here thats when i'll take the car apart and thats when i'll be able to let you know weights
Cool thanks. I know I won't get much out of the lightened drivetrain parts. But thats where it matters more. and part of why I am doing this spredsheet to figure out whats worth buying. Cost per gram if you will. Do you run Ti m3 6mm screws in your two speed gears? lol
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:24 AM   #2415
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Sounds interesting...any pics?

I think there were some posted mid summer but i'll post one after I get home tonight.

Mark
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