break as in splits in the material? interesting

worst a few of the 12x drivers here have managed to do is make both linkages pop off the ball joint during the race (after a big hit)

Hey Guys,

Tosolini, Drew Ellis and myself ran the WC front end in Cleveland last weekend and the car is terrific. I will be updating the CorallyUSA website with setups and blank setup sheets to get people rolling with the car.

Keep posting some questions and I will help out with answering your questions the best I can.

Jeff

It is common for the shock to be too long with the standard ballcups on most 12th scale cars. You can use this as a tuning aid as well which controls up travel for on power steering. The less the shock extends and unloads to the rear end, the more onpower steering you will have.

I needed my car to rotate more in Cleveland and we reduced the shock length as one thing to make it rotate harder middle out.

Jeff

Just to reinforce what Jeff posted, the shock length controls uptravel and has a VERY significant effect on mid to exit steering and rear traction. This setting is a key tuning factor for differing traction conditions.

Another important setting we found for cornering is camber. We ended up at 1 1/4 degrees in Cleveland, and we want to try a little less at some point as well in the future. It is recommended that you use CA on the front tire sidewalls, even on asphalt, when running low camber settings. The CA prevents the tire from rolling onto the outside edge and causing inconsistent cornering traction.

So far we have found the 12x to respond very well and predictably to tuning adjustments, and therefore easy to dial in to track conditions.

hello all,

Just have a question:

To use the AE or Corally WC front suspension, you should move the servo backwards. If I drill the holes 8mm further to the back and then install my KO 949 servo I cannot install the anti roll antenna mast anymore.

Am I doing something wrong or...

thanks

You must have something wrong, as mine are drilled 8mm back, and i have at least 4mm between the back of my servo (KO 949!) and roll mast mount.

When will you do that? Can't wait

I've been fiddling around with my sp12X lately. My local track is a pretty bumpy, yet high traction carpet track, so it's proven to be a little bit of a setup challenge. So far I've come up with this:

Front:
-.018 springs
-5 deg reactive
-Caster... middle (shim on each side)
- 1.5 deg of camber
-I put a little bit of the blue corally tube lube on the front kingpins to help dampen it a bit since it was all I had, I'd like to try something else though to compare.
Parma pro 38 Magenta front (jaco double pink is good too) at 1.65 with about 1/4 sauce, sidewalls lightly glued
3.5mm ride height
Angled servo mount 8mm back with a Futaba s9650

Rear:
-HB Cyclone 12 shock with 30wt oil
-Olive spring (with 1.6mm tbar) or Silver (with 2mm Tbar)
- 2 screws in tbar... cut the tbar spacer to 2 round spacers as opposed to one single bar spacer
- about 2.5mm of pod droop (take some hudy droop blocks on the main chassis ands use the droop guage to measure how far the rear pod drops at the very back.)
- 10K silicone fluid in the tubes
- Parma pro 38 Grey tires at 1.75, sidewalls lightly glued. (Jaco yellow is good too) full sauce
Track width (172mm.... I think thats ROAR max)

Parma speed 8 HD LW body

I'm still going back and forth between the 2.0mm tbar, and the 1.6. the 1.6 would be better if I could to do something to make it stiffer side to side... Front to back it's perfect. I tried a 2.0mm tbar with the taper in the back shaven off, but it basically did the opposite that I wanted.

For a smoother track the 2.0mm tbar would be awesome. So far I've only been running 2 screws in the tbar, instead of the normal 3. It seems to help in the bumps a lot more. Also... .020's and 10 deg of reactive caster, (plus with the shims all back to give the maximum amount of caster) was really good too on a smoother track.

-Korey

what are your thoughts of the standard 12x front end vs the WC front end?

I'm thinking of getting the WC front end just for the more tuning adjustments.

thoughts?

cheers

drivingpro-

I know Jeff is working 6 to 7 days a week through December, so maybe I can give you a preliminary thought, since I help him with the 1/12 car, until he has a chance to respond.

Basically, Jeff has not had a chance to drive the car with the kit front end yet. The first time he drove the 12x was 4 days prior to the beginning of the Cleveland race, having run another manufacturer's car for several years prior. The kit front end seems very interesting and elegant, but with practice time limited he elected to go with the WC front because of long experience with the AE style on carpet.

Maybe Jeff has some input from other Corally team drivers that he can share.

The 12x front end is really cool actually, but it takes a lot more time to just get everything setup. But since I know the WC type of front end, thats what I put on mine. Works great!!! Once I get the setup dialed in for the WC front end, I'll give the 12x front end another shot.

-Korey

It has been hectic with the holiday season. Hopefully we can get some time this week to start the updates for the website.

Do da do....

Another question,

how do you setup the T bar tweak screws? Do you turn them down untill they touch the chassis and then adjust for tweak or do you keep some kind of clearance (1mm like the manual says)?

Before i was running a link car, so i have no experience with T bar setup.

My servo problem seems to be solved, it looks like my chassis has already pre drilled holes to adjust the servo position for the WC/AE front end. It has 2 sets of holes with 8mm distance in between. I had to cut a little on the arms to make clearance for the tie rods which make quite some angle compared to my previous car (tie rod angle is similar to Spashett's worlds winning car)

Hoping to find some US setups soon on Corally USA site

Thx,

Nilez