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Old 12-11-2007, 06:36 PM   #241
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how do you setup the T bar tweak screws? Do you turn them down untill they touch the chassis and then adjust for tweak or do you keep some kind of clearance (1mm like the manual says)?
Nilezb-

On carpet you put them on the chassis. Not sure why the manual shows clearance, except maybe for low traction asphalt.

Korey's setup a few posts ago would be one good one to try. Jeff's Cleveland setup was a little different, and also good:

Jaco double pink frt 1.65" (1/3 sauce), yellow rears 1.75" (full sauce)
1.6mm T-bar with side to side stiffeners (hard rubber spacers under each side of T-bar), 2 screws mounting to rear pod with spacers cut as Korey says
30 wt shock oil, silver spring
around 1mm uptravel at rear of main chassis (lift at rear shock mount to check this- change shock length to adjust)
chassis level when race ready
Corally red lube in dampeners
.020 frt springs, Corally diff lube on kingpin
10 degree blocks, 2 spacers rear and one front
1.25 degrees camber
3.5mm ride height
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Old 12-11-2007, 06:59 PM   #242
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Where are the side to side stiffeners put? under the top of the T?

Thanks
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Old 12-11-2007, 07:01 PM   #243
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Originally Posted by snowyelan View Post
Where are the side to side stiffeners put?

Thanks
Halfway under the t-bar. It is a rubber o-ring we used on both sides to stiffen the t-bar up. We didn't want to go all the way to the 2.0mm t-bar so we came up with that idea. You can shift it back and forth to change the feel to fine tune it.

Jeff
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:21 PM   #244
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Yea, I just tried that today and really liked it. If you use a rubber type oring... rather than a silicone base then it seems to do a better job. The rubber ones are harder. I used some head dampener orings I use on my r/c heli since they are pretty hard. But any rubber type of oring will work I think. I just put a little drop of ca down on them to keep them still.

-Korey
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:08 AM   #245
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What type of camber gauge are you using to fine tune 1.25 degrees of camber?

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Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
Nilezb-

On carpet you put them on the chassis. Not sure why the manual shows clearance, except maybe for low traction asphalt.

Korey's setup a few posts ago would be one good one to try. Jeff's Cleveland setup was a little different, and also good:

Jaco double pink frt 1.65" (1/3 sauce), yellow rears 1.75" (full sauce)
1.6mm T-bar with side to side stiffeners (hard rubber spacers under each side of T-bar), 2 screws mounting to rear pod with spacers cut as Korey says
30 wt shock oil, silver spring
around 1mm uptravel at rear of main chassis (lift at rear shock mount to check this- change shock length to adjust)
chassis level when race ready
Corally red lube in dampeners
.020 frt springs, Corally diff lube on kingpin
10 degree blocks, 2 spacers rear and one front
1.25 degrees camber
3.5mm ride height
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Old 12-12-2007, 10:09 AM   #246
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What type of camber gauge are you using to fine tune 1.25 degrees of camber?
lol...good question. I should have said around 1 1/4 degrees, since the guage we use has big enough graduations to just estimate this. Be sure to gently push the top of the wheel away from the car when you set this, to take out any suspension slop.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:58 PM   #247
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So are the o-rings b/w the pivot balls under the t-plate? Doesn't this increase the 'spring rate' of the t-plate as well?
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:05 PM   #248
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So are the o-rings b/w the pivot balls under the t-plate? Doesn't this increase the 'spring rate' of the t-plate as well?
If b/w means between, then yes, we locate them just under either edge of the T-bar somewhere between the pivot balls. The further back, the higher the side-to-side stiffness, or spring rate. It also affects the front-to-back stiffness, but not nearly as much since a good share of the flex of the T-bar takes place behind the rear pivot ball.

This way you can adjust side-to-side stiffness and separately tune front-to-rear stiffness with the shock spring. Sometimes the jump to the 2mm T-bar can be too much.
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Old 12-15-2007, 07:40 AM   #249
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Thanks, I'll have to try this next time out.
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:53 PM   #250
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A question came up from a racer about the proper countersink for the 12x chassis screw holes. The countersinks on some of the graphite parts in the kit may not be quite deep enough to allow the screws to fully seat flush with the surface of the graphite. This can be a problem, of course, when running low ride heights on carpet.

The Corally metric screws have a 90 degree countersink angle, unlike the U.S. standard 82 degree countersink. To maintain proper retention and alignment be sure to use the 90 degree version.

These can be found on www.mcmaster.com, Catalog Page 2421, for $6-$8 depending on size.
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:05 PM   #251
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Hey Larry,

do you do the same for corally tc's and use a countersink to make sure they are flush?
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:14 PM   #252
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do you do the same for corally tc's and use a countersink to make sure they are flush?
Good question, Joel, but I have never built a Corally TC. Don't know if the countersinks need any further work. Maybe Jeff or someone else can chime in.
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:21 PM   #253
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Yeah, if you want them to be perfectly countersunk the typical screw you will find in a hobby shop will probably not fit SUPER perfect in the countersinks. So far it hasnt been a big deal for me though, just make sure they are tight

-Korey
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:26 AM   #254
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Question:
I finally dusted off the box and decided to run my 12X. I have an issue with the wheel hubs not aligning with my JACO PRISMS. I have ordered new wheel hubs due to the ones I have being somewhat stripped.

Is there some ritual to follow when mounting the rear tires???
Diff side tire is ok... other side... wobbly...

Here are some pics of the completed car:
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:33 AM   #255
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Question:
I finally dusted off the box and decided to run my 12X. I have an issue with the wheel hubs not aligning with my JACO PRISMS. I have ordered new wheel hubs due to the ones I have being somewhat stripped.

Is there some ritual to follow when mounting the rear tires???
Diff side tire is ok... other side... wobbly...

Here are some pics of the completed car:


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