3LikesTamiya TRF415
07-16-2007 | 09:09 PM
I would like to add to this conversation by saying if your going to use steel screws, use the stainless steel screws. The kit screws, I believe are a little softer than stainless and the weight is about the same. There are many aftermarket companies that make them.
I also would add if your going to do races that there are weight limits then stick with stainless steel but if you run where there is no minimum weight requirements then getting the car as light as you can is like free horsepower.
I would take advantage of any performance gains, since the screws have to be in the chassis anyway, why not spend a few more dollars to make the car lighter and quicker coming in and out of the corners? The average racer probably can't feel the difference but you'll have the potential of saving a few tenths on the lap times for sure!
Just my 2$
I also would add if your going to do races that there are weight limits then stick with stainless steel but if you run where there is no minimum weight requirements then getting the car as light as you can is like free horsepower.
I would take advantage of any performance gains, since the screws have to be in the chassis anyway, why not spend a few more dollars to make the car lighter and quicker coming in and out of the corners? The average racer probably can't feel the difference but you'll have the potential of saving a few tenths on the lap times for sure!
Just my 2$
will see what I can do...
07-17-2007 | 01:50 AM
1) the look great (all anodized blue on the top
)2) they are about as light as you can go (unless you go full alu, which for high load areas is a no-no).
Bascially, the underside of car is Ti, and the top in the blue alu. What it does mean is that any weight I take out of the car can be put back in ballast... which can a) lower the cg and b) give another tuning option
If you take a 10g out from the topo of the car... and place it down on the chassis... instant improvement. Obviously, I doubt anyone but the best can notice a difference, but there still the psycological advantage of having done it....
regards
Ed
07-17-2007 | 11:36 AM
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,099
From: Parts Unkown
07-17-2007 | 04:41 PM
There is probably bugger all, and I am not doing it from a performance stance. I just hate phillips head screws, so replaced as many as I could in the Mini with the hex head titanium screws.
07-17-2007 | 04:57 PM
hey guys,
Forgot to mention, my site is back up and running. Been down for a few weeks whilst I sorted out a server provider issue (my fault).
Added a couple of my more recent setups, and Corey Lewis' from RRoC this year.
Also working on a better method for searching the setups... I have some ideas in the pipeline. Never know..I may even get a chance to add some newer pictures too!
regards
Ed
(p.s. for those who don't know... link in the sig
)
Forgot to mention, my site is back up and running. Been down for a few weeks whilst I sorted out a server provider issue (my fault).
Added a couple of my more recent setups, and Corey Lewis' from RRoC this year.
Also working on a better method for searching the setups... I have some ideas in the pipeline. Never know..I may even get a chance to add some newer pictures too!
regards
Ed
(p.s. for those who don't know... link in the sig
)
07-19-2007 | 05:00 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 104
From: belgium ypres
Hello Eirik,
I saw in the entry list of the Euros 2007(France Montbrison) that you are participate.Im also driving the Euros for team Belgium and hope to get a nice result...last year i was 62th...not bad
Do you know something about the track or have a detailed setup that i can start with?Maybe u spotted or heard something from Victor?
Il see u over there!
I saw in the entry list of the Euros 2007(France Montbrison) that you are participate.Im also driving the Euros for team Belgium and hope to get a nice result...last year i was 62th...not bad
Do you know something about the track or have a detailed setup that i can start with?Maybe u spotted or heard something from Victor?
Il see u over there!
07-19-2007 | 01:02 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 627
From: Oslo, Norway
Hello Eirik,
I saw in the entry list of the Euros 2007(France Montbrison) that you are participate.Im also driving the Euros for team Belgium and hope to get a nice result...last year i was 62th...not bad
Do you know something about the track or have a detailed setup that i can start with?Maybe u spotted or heard something from Victor?
Il see u over there!
I saw in the entry list of the Euros 2007(France Montbrison) that you are participate.Im also driving the Euros for team Belgium and hope to get a nice result...last year i was 62th...not bad
Do you know something about the track or have a detailed setup that i can start with?Maybe u spotted or heard something from Victor?
Il see u over there!
Unfortnately I will not make it to the euros this year, just some bad planning actually
I have not talked to Viktor in some time, but I will see what I can find out for you.
Good luck mister!
Eirik
07-19-2007 | 03:23 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 104
From: belgium ypres
Aaah no luck dude
It should be great if i had good starting setup...the first thing i will do is go to team tamiya and give my eye a good shot, you will be surprised what you can see from all the topdrivers(some little tricks that make a big difference)and try it out myselfeven im not a topdriver
Go Marc and Victor and all the Tamiya drivers!
Thx men!
It should be great if i had good starting setup...the first thing i will do is go to team tamiya and give my eye a good shot, you will be surprised what you can see from all the topdrivers(some little tricks that make a big difference)and try it out myselfeven im not a topdriverGo Marc and Victor and all the Tamiya drivers!
Thx men!
07-20-2007 | 11:28 AM
Agreed. I've been using the Ti/Aluminium screw kit's from RC Champ for ages
1) the look great (all anodized blue on the top )
2) they are about as light as you can go (unless you go full alu, which for high load areas is a no-no).
Bascially, the underside of car is Ti, and the top in the blue alu. What it does mean is that any weight I take out of the car can be put back in ballast... which can a) lower the cg and b) give another tuning option
If you take a 10g out from the topo of the car... and place it down on the chassis... instant improvement. Obviously, I doubt anyone but the best can notice a difference, but there still the psycological advantage of having done it....
regards
Ed
1) the look great (all anodized blue on the top
)2) they are about as light as you can go (unless you go full alu, which for high load areas is a no-no).
Bascially, the underside of car is Ti, and the top in the blue alu. What it does mean is that any weight I take out of the car can be put back in ballast... which can a) lower the cg and b) give another tuning option
If you take a 10g out from the topo of the car... and place it down on the chassis... instant improvement. Obviously, I doubt anyone but the best can notice a difference, but there still the psycological advantage of having done it....
regards
Ed
My car weights 1427 ready to race w/o transponder (18 - 20 grams). I am not that good to feel the difference of a 1500 flat car vs a ballast balanced 1500gr car but I sure see the faces of the other drivers when my car comes out 1508 with transponder. It is a psycological pressure on them, which I hope will force them in to error
07-21-2007 | 07:25 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 209
question
Need I little help guys I just a TRF415 and have a lot of question
1 What the tyranny ratio
2 Part number for a ball diff for the front
3 The place to buy parts in the US
4 Gearing for 13.5
5 Can you use any spur gear on it beside the Tamiya
Thanks
1 What the tyranny ratio
2 Part number for a ball diff for the front
3 The place to buy parts in the US
4 Gearing for 13.5
5 Can you use any spur gear on it beside the Tamiya
Thanks
07-21-2007 | 12:14 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,301
From: Earth
If your pulleys are white colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.25.
2. The part number for the ball diff is #53921. It does not come with a diff pulley, you need to buy that separately.
3. Try your local hobby shop...
4. Depends what track your going to run the 13.5 and how large the track is.
5. You can use any standard spur gear I believe. The Tamiya spur gears are a metric pitch, 0.4 module. Although 64 pitch pinions work fine on it.