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Old 07-21-2007, 10:26 PM   #18886
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Originally Posted by Tek Nickal View Post
1. If your pulleys are black colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.1875.
If your pulleys are white colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.25.

2. The part number for the ball diff is #53921. It does not come with a diff pulley, you need to buy that separately.

3. Try your local hobby shop...

4. Depends what track your going to run the 13.5 and how large the track is.

5. You can use any standard spur gear I believe. The Tamiya spur gears are a metric pitch, 0.4 module. Although 64 pitch pinions work fine on it.
Correct on all counts, though if you simply MUST buy parts online, then I'd reccomend SpeedTech RC, they're pretty good at stocking a nice selection of stuff for Tamiyas, & at pretty good prices too. And about the 13.5, that depends also on the track size & whether you're running it with the sintered or original bonded rotor. On a medium sized track(say, 48 x 84ft), then I'd try a 5.8FDR with the bonded rotor to start, & with sintered maybe a 5.0-5.3 to start & then adjust from there.....
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Old 07-22-2007, 03:48 AM   #18887
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I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?

Last edited by miccal; 01-20-2010 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 07-22-2007, 04:29 AM   #18888
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I'm afraid there is no trick on making it stay there for a longer period of time for that part always turns left and right right? so the screw is automatically unscrewing itself (I dont like the sound of the "screw") Anyway, unless you want to glue it in but be careful not to glue the screw and the c-hub...
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Old 07-22-2007, 05:30 AM   #18889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miccal View Post
I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?
just be careful:

1) always carefully pre-thread the carriers with an screw before putting them on the c-hubs, ensuring you're doing it straight. Then, and only then, screw the bolts on with care to use the thread you created, not make another one.

2) never overtight... this is practice, move the carriers until they have acceptable play and you're done....

people around here that have the same car always complain about this, I never had a problem using this method.

regards,
al
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:45 AM   #18890
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I find it helps alittle to use a longer screw, IIRC I use 12mm, just long enough to go all the way through and not touch the axle
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Old 07-22-2007, 04:53 PM   #18891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tek Nickal View Post
1. If your pulleys are black colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.1875.
If your pulleys are white colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.25.

2. The part number for the ball diff is #53921. It does not come with a diff pulley, you need to buy that separately.

3. Try your local hobby shop...

4. Depends what track your going to run the 13.5 and how large the track is.

5. You can use any standard spur gear I believe. The Tamiya spur gears are a metric pitch, 0.4 module. Although 64 pitch pinions work fine on it.

Thanks for all the help!!!
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Old 07-22-2007, 05:22 PM   #18892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miccal View Post
I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?
There is no trick but to be really careful. As rampal said, pre-thread the hub, and make sure your threading onto the same threads, otherwise you will cross thread it and strip the hole. If you've cross-threaded it, just replace the hub. It would be even better to use a 4-40 tap.
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Old 07-22-2007, 05:54 PM   #18893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miccal View Post
I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?
A bit of superglue on the end of the thread is your friend

Or get the RC Square aluminum uprights, put some thread lock on the screw, will never move again unless you are unscrewing the screw.
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Old 07-23-2007, 08:54 AM   #18894
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can someone tell me the part no for the body post bag of parts i can get for the msx. i cannot fin the body posts for this car anywhere. thanks for the help
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:04 PM   #18895
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pre-thread, not overtight, and a bit of thread-lock, would save your raceday.
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Old 07-23-2007, 06:45 PM   #18896
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Tamiya part number for body post set is;
50984
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Old 07-23-2007, 07:18 PM   #18897
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I wish to purchase some Tamiya springs for my 415, but I am not sure about the color coding and part numbers. The spring set #53440 comes with red, yellow, blue and white springs, so is this enough? What about the other colors such as silver, gray and purple? Also, what about the short springs, what are they for?

Or is it better maybe to buy another brand of springs?

Also, I want to get a complete set of stabilizers. The stabilizer set #53842 is for the TA05, but will they fit the 415?

Thanks
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Old 07-23-2007, 08:16 PM   #18898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miccal View Post
I wish to purchase some Tamiya springs for my 415, but I am not sure about the color coding and part numbers. The spring set #53440 comes with red, yellow, blue and white springs, so is this enough? What about the other colors such as silver, gray and purple? Also, what about the short springs, what are they for?

Or is it better maybe to buy another brand of springs?

Also, I want to get a complete set of stabilizers. The stabilizer set #53842 is for the TA05, but will they fit the 415?

Thanks
Well, it never hurts to have a big selection of springs, but for specifics on which ones are which, I'd suggest you go to TryHard's website(it's in his signature, you'll find his posts in this thread), it explains them all quite well. And as for the sway bar set for the TA05, yes, it's the same that the 415's use(& one set will accomodate the front & rear, & come with 3 sets of bars)......
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Old 07-24-2007, 03:14 AM   #18899
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I am sure this has been ask already...but with 630pg in this thread there are too many pages to sort.

I would like to fit a orion 3200 pack in my TRF415, but found that i have to: 1) Grind away the Al mounts,
2) grind material from the battery itself
3) get the stick pack conversion 49436.

Can someone please post some pictures of each of the options I listed. I would like to take a look at how that would turn out.

One last question. If there a battery brace kit that would fit the 415? I am not very good with tapes...
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Old 07-24-2007, 03:29 AM   #18900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzbob View Post
Well, it never hurts to have a big selection of springs, but for specifics on which ones are which, I'd suggest you go to TryHard's website(it's in his signature, you'll find his posts in this thread), it explains them all quite well. And as for the sway bar set for the TA05, yes, it's the same that the 415's use(& one set will accomodate the front & rear, & come with 3 sets of bars)......
Thanks for the help. I already have TryHard's Excel sheet with the springs data. The problem is, I am having trouble finding the part numbers for the springs listed, and I am not sure about these "normal" ones and the "short" ones - which type do I need?
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