Tamiya TRF415
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
1. If your pulleys are black colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.1875.
If your pulleys are white colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.25.
2. The part number for the ball diff is #53921. It does not come with a diff pulley, you need to buy that separately.
3. Try your local hobby shop...
4. Depends what track your going to run the 13.5 and how large the track is.
5. You can use any standard spur gear I believe. The Tamiya spur gears are a metric pitch, 0.4 module. Although 64 pitch pinions work fine on it.
If your pulleys are white colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.25.
2. The part number for the ball diff is #53921. It does not come with a diff pulley, you need to buy that separately.
3. Try your local hobby shop...
4. Depends what track your going to run the 13.5 and how large the track is.
5. You can use any standard spur gear I believe. The Tamiya spur gears are a metric pitch, 0.4 module. Although 64 pitch pinions work fine on it.
I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?
Last edited by miccal; 01-20-2010 at 06:28 PM.
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
I'm afraid there is no trick on making it stay there for a longer period of time for that part always turns left and right right? so the screw is automatically unscrewing itself (I dont like the sound of the "screw") Anyway, unless you want to glue it in but be careful not to glue the screw and the c-hub...
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?
1) always carefully pre-thread the carriers with an screw before putting them on the c-hubs, ensuring you're doing it straight. Then, and only then, screw the bolts on with care to use the thread you created, not make another one.
2) never overtight... this is practice, move the carriers until they have acceptable play and you're done....
people around here that have the same car always complain about this, I never had a problem using this method.
regards,
al
I find it helps alittle to use a longer screw, IIRC I use 12mm, just long enough to go all the way through and not touch the axle
1. If your pulleys are black colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.1875.
If your pulleys are white colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.25.
2. The part number for the ball diff is #53921. It does not come with a diff pulley, you need to buy that separately.
3. Try your local hobby shop...
4. Depends what track your going to run the 13.5 and how large the track is.
5. You can use any standard spur gear I believe. The Tamiya spur gears are a metric pitch, 0.4 module. Although 64 pitch pinions work fine on it.
If your pulleys are white colored, your internal ratio is probably 2.25.
2. The part number for the ball diff is #53921. It does not come with a diff pulley, you need to buy that separately.
3. Try your local hobby shop...
4. Depends what track your going to run the 13.5 and how large the track is.
5. You can use any standard spur gear I believe. The Tamiya spur gears are a metric pitch, 0.4 module. Although 64 pitch pinions work fine on it.
Thanks for all the help!!!
I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I recently replaced the C-hubs on my trf, which I initially purchased second-hand and hence already put together. Since then, I have had trouble with the BB2 screws that go in the bottom of the C-hubs as circled in the picture below, which keep falling out. Is there a trick to getting these screws to stay in place?
Or get the RC Square aluminum uprights, put some thread lock on the screw, will never move again unless you are unscrewing the screw.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
can someone tell me the part no for the body post bag of parts i can get for the msx. i cannot fin the body posts for this car anywhere. thanks for the help
pre-thread, not overtight, and a bit of thread-lock, would save your raceday.
Tech Master
iTrader: (72)
Tamiya part number for body post set is;
50984
50984
I wish to purchase some Tamiya springs for my 415, but I am not sure about the color coding and part numbers. The spring set #53440 comes with red, yellow, blue and white springs, so is this enough? What about the other colors such as silver, gray and purple? Also, what about the short springs, what are they for?
Or is it better maybe to buy another brand of springs?
Also, I want to get a complete set of stabilizers. The stabilizer set #53842 is for the TA05, but will they fit the 415?
Thanks
Or is it better maybe to buy another brand of springs?
Also, I want to get a complete set of stabilizers. The stabilizer set #53842 is for the TA05, but will they fit the 415?
Thanks
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
I wish to purchase some Tamiya springs for my 415, but I am not sure about the color coding and part numbers. The spring set #53440 comes with red, yellow, blue and white springs, so is this enough? What about the other colors such as silver, gray and purple? Also, what about the short springs, what are they for?
Or is it better maybe to buy another brand of springs?
Also, I want to get a complete set of stabilizers. The stabilizer set #53842 is for the TA05, but will they fit the 415?
Thanks
Or is it better maybe to buy another brand of springs?
Also, I want to get a complete set of stabilizers. The stabilizer set #53842 is for the TA05, but will they fit the 415?
Thanks
Tech Regular
I am sure this has been ask already...but with 630pg in this thread there are too many pages to sort.
I would like to fit a orion 3200 pack in my TRF415, but found that i have to: 1) Grind away the Al mounts,
2) grind material from the battery itself
3) get the stick pack conversion 49436.
Can someone please post some pictures of each of the options I listed. I would like to take a look at how that would turn out.
One last question. If there a battery brace kit that would fit the 415? I am not very good with tapes...
I would like to fit a orion 3200 pack in my TRF415, but found that i have to: 1) Grind away the Al mounts,
2) grind material from the battery itself
3) get the stick pack conversion 49436.
Can someone please post some pictures of each of the options I listed. I would like to take a look at how that would turn out.
One last question. If there a battery brace kit that would fit the 415? I am not very good with tapes...
Well, it never hurts to have a big selection of springs, but for specifics on which ones are which, I'd suggest you go to TryHard's website(it's in his signature, you'll find his posts in this thread), it explains them all quite well. And as for the sway bar set for the TA05, yes, it's the same that the 415's use(& one set will accomodate the front & rear, & come with 3 sets of bars)......