Mugen MTX-4
#4501
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
I wish I did. Robbie told me he has a good setup for Revelation. I will try and get it if he doesn't see this and post it. I know you need hard tires cut very small. He told me 45 shore all the way around and if I remember cut to like 55mm and 57mm. No suspension travel in the front with the front sway bar straight up and down. I will see if I can get the whole thing from Robbie.
. Over here, most of us usually race new uncut rear tires with 2mm split for mains due to the high wear of our tracks.
#4503
Originally Posted by asw7576
With 55/57 diameter, are you able to complete 30 minutes final ? 1 hour final ?
With such small tires diameter I think the top speed is compromised, isn't it ?
With such small tires diameter I think the top speed is compromised, isn't it ?
#4504
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
There is almost no tire wear at Revelation Raceway and you can adjut your gearing for the smaller diameter tires.
Do you guys still have the thursday night racing at revelation ?
#4505
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,546
From: Northern VA
Usually higher traction tracks have less tire wear and therefore you can get by with a smaller size tire. Keep in mind that most of the guys that do this are very smooth on the throttle and are not wasting tire by over driving the car.
#4507
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,527
From: Harwood, MD
Originally Posted by Jamminjd
Can anyone tell me what kind of shock pistons go in the front of the mtx-4.
1 hole or 2 hole white or black.
1 hole or 2 hole white or black.
#4508
I´d like to share some findings when I built my first mtx4 kit. Hope these tips help new owners!
1) sets screws on page 11 for the 2 shoe speed are 4mm, not 3mm like on the manual
2) silicone use is mandatory if using the front diff with diff oil, not for spool.
3) the ball links of the steering rods need to be dremel if using the standard belt tension in the front
4) i used 1.5mm washers on the rear shocks lower cups to keep the shocks straights due to the 4mm shock tower
5) with the 24mm pulley, I dremel the graphite plate to gain more tension for the belt, and I used 2 0.75mm washers between the plate and the base to avoid contact with the engine mounts, worked perfectly and now your even most used urethan or rubber bands won´t be loose.
6) I used the rubber spacers that came with my servos to avoid the throttle servo to be in contact with the chassis.
7) the 3rd post I used is a mtx3 rear body post, screw to a small plate on one end, the other end is screwed to the steering post. now my 3rd body post is on the windshield, not on the hood.
8) I used 3x10mm caps screws for the engine and 3x10mm for the chassis engine screws, 2mm extra tightening.
9) waiting time for new ninja 12, yellow shoe and new super harder spring, 3 weeks from now
1) sets screws on page 11 for the 2 shoe speed are 4mm, not 3mm like on the manual
2) silicone use is mandatory if using the front diff with diff oil, not for spool.
3) the ball links of the steering rods need to be dremel if using the standard belt tension in the front
4) i used 1.5mm washers on the rear shocks lower cups to keep the shocks straights due to the 4mm shock tower
5) with the 24mm pulley, I dremel the graphite plate to gain more tension for the belt, and I used 2 0.75mm washers between the plate and the base to avoid contact with the engine mounts, worked perfectly and now your even most used urethan or rubber bands won´t be loose.
6) I used the rubber spacers that came with my servos to avoid the throttle servo to be in contact with the chassis.
7) the 3rd post I used is a mtx3 rear body post, screw to a small plate on one end, the other end is screwed to the steering post. now my 3rd body post is on the windshield, not on the hood.
8) I used 3x10mm caps screws for the engine and 3x10mm for the chassis engine screws, 2mm extra tightening.
9) waiting time for new ninja 12, yellow shoe and new super harder spring, 3 weeks from now
#4509
Originally Posted by Seisick
I´d like to share some findings when I built my first mtx4 kit. Hope these tips help new owners!
1) sets screws on page 11 for the 2 shoe speed are 4mm, not 3mm like on the manual
2) silicone use is mandatory if using the front diff with diff oil, not for spool.
3) the ball links of the steering rods need to be dremel if using the standard belt tension in the front
4) i used 1.5mm washers on the rear shocks lower cups to keep the shocks straights due to the 4mm shock tower
5) with the 24mm pulley, I dremel the graphite plate to gain more tension for the belt, and I used 2 0.75mm washers between the plate and the base to avoid contact with the engine mounts, worked perfectly and now your even most used urethan or rubber bands won´t be loose.
6) I used the rubber spacers that came with my servos to avoid the throttle servo to be in contact with the chassis.
7) the 3rd post I used is a mtx3 rear body post, screw to a small plate on one end, the other end is screwed to the steering post. now my 3rd body post is on the windshield, not on the hood.
8) I used 3x10mm caps screws for the engine and 3x10mm for the chassis engine screws, 2mm extra tightening.
9) waiting time for new ninja 12, yellow shoe and new super harder spring, 3 weeks from now
1) sets screws on page 11 for the 2 shoe speed are 4mm, not 3mm like on the manual
2) silicone use is mandatory if using the front diff with diff oil, not for spool.
3) the ball links of the steering rods need to be dremel if using the standard belt tension in the front
4) i used 1.5mm washers on the rear shocks lower cups to keep the shocks straights due to the 4mm shock tower
5) with the 24mm pulley, I dremel the graphite plate to gain more tension for the belt, and I used 2 0.75mm washers between the plate and the base to avoid contact with the engine mounts, worked perfectly and now your even most used urethan or rubber bands won´t be loose.
6) I used the rubber spacers that came with my servos to avoid the throttle servo to be in contact with the chassis.
7) the 3rd post I used is a mtx3 rear body post, screw to a small plate on one end, the other end is screwed to the steering post. now my 3rd body post is on the windshield, not on the hood.
8) I used 3x10mm caps screws for the engine and 3x10mm for the chassis engine screws, 2mm extra tightening.
9) waiting time for new ninja 12, yellow shoe and new super harder spring, 3 weeks from now
#4510
Originally Posted by asw7576
Holy Smoke !!!
Do you guys still have the thursday night racing at revelation ?
Do you guys still have the thursday night racing at revelation ?
#4511
Originally Posted by Seisick
7) the 3rd post I used is a mtx3 rear body post, screw to a small plate on one end, the other end is screwed to the steering post. now my 3rd body post is on the windshield, not on the hood.
8) I used 3x10mm caps screws for the engine and 3x10mm for the chassis engine screws, 2mm extra tightening.
9) waiting time for new ninja 12, yellow shoe and new super harder spring, 3 weeks from now
8) I used 3x10mm caps screws for the engine and 3x10mm for the chassis engine screws, 2mm extra tightening.
9) waiting time for new ninja 12, yellow shoe and new super harder spring, 3 weeks from now
For a correct placement of the Stratus 3.1 body, you need to trim about 1cm of the front bumper. If not, happens what happened to you, all the body is displaced to the front.
Regarding the Ninja .12... good luck with the wait, waited for 4 months and seems that more wait is intended (ends of May, first of June - this is the last comment). Got p*ssed and bought a pair of Sirio Evo3 Sti... I'm not regreted with the change.
To all: take a second look on your engine mounts and check if any part of the crankcase touches with the engine mounts, when warmed, everything will grow-up and can drive to a distorted crankcase or other weird problems (some novas and Sirios touch slightly).
#4512
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
I wish I did. Robbie told me he has a good setup for Revelation. I will try and get it if he doesn't see this and post it. I know you need hard tires cut very small. He told me 45 shore all the way around and if I remember cut to like 55mm and 57mm. No suspension travel in the front with the front sway bar straight up and down. I will see if I can get the whole thing from Robbie.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front
Track width 200mm
camber 0
droop 0
toe .05 out
shock position top hole
oil 800w
spring dark blue
sway bar 90
caster1.5
steering ack C
ride height 3mm
tire diameter 57
tire shore 45
2mm groove cut in center of front tire
Rear
Track width 200mm
camber -4mm
droop 3
toe +1.5
shock position 3rd hole from bottom
oil 600w
spring dark blue
no sway bar
rear block A
ride height 3.5 or 4
tire diameter 59.5
tire shore 45
Body Dodge Stratus
gearing 17/23 53/59
Robbie Collins
Mugen USA
#4514
Hi Guys, just thought I'd give you a report on the STS D3R. First race the other night and finished in the top 3 all night to take second place over all.
Up against another MTX-4/ Sirio evo3, CD3 Pro/Sirio Evo3, Serpent/Mega and a FW05R/OS TZ. very happy with the performance and initial results.
Down the straight(approx 40m) it looses maybe 2 car lengths on the Evo3's, but has it all over the OS, but with some more dremelling and fine tuning, and at half the price, it will make a great club engine.
Up against another MTX-4/ Sirio evo3, CD3 Pro/Sirio Evo3, Serpent/Mega and a FW05R/OS TZ. very happy with the performance and initial results.
Down the straight(approx 40m) it looses maybe 2 car lengths on the Evo3's, but has it all over the OS, but with some more dremelling and fine tuning, and at half the price, it will make a great club engine.



