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Old 08-15-2024 | 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian
I haven't been actively working on a new product. I have done some more testing on making my own analyzer, but that is still a ways off at this point. I've got a couple small things that I am working on for OEM and a custom project here and there, plus I am trying to get out and race mod TC on asphalt as much as I can. Summer months are a little slow as far as the RC business is concerned, so kind of getting a breather there, lol. But I expect in a couple of months I will be extremely busy again, especially since I am planning on going back to school for another degree. So I will have my fulltime job to do, the RC business, and a full class load. We'll see how that goes.

A dyno... I have toyed with the idea of making a dyno. There are a couple of concerns with making a dyno, the biggest is sourcing a flywheel and enclosure for it. The second is writing an application for Windows to run it. I can use a terminal emulator and stream the dyno data via serial then move that data into a spread sheet, but I think end users will want something a bit easier to use and not want to jump through hoops to make it work. Then, well, there already is a dyno on the market, the MiniPro. Yep, it is expensive, but if I make one it won't be cheap either. So the point being, I'm not sure there would be a good ROI as far as the business is concerned.
Pretty much a Fantom Dyno, I have two of them. The only problem with them is the software for Windows requires a key for a new installation an the software's author has passed away. I have a Win XP machine fully licensed and it is like a piece of gold.
What we need is new software to run these dynos and that is above my paygrade. The old one didn't allow the data transfer which would be a great idea but did let you compare motor tests in its own software with graphing. Its ranges were based on brushed motors and the higher torque brushless ones cause problems with the graphing of that.
PM me if you want more info. There is a Fantom Dyno thread here.
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Old 08-15-2024 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
That tripping point is the secret. Below it you can use a range of timing and match it with correct gearing. Base that off the time sheets and motor temp. That is the secret to getting it right. One thing I do know from using a dyno. Peak power goes up as you increase timing. Bottom end torque will go down though. Got to get the right spot for the track and you.

That is correct. Upping your timing will make you faster down the straights, but slower in the technical section. Higher timing will also change the way the car goes off a jump as you punch it.
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Old 08-16-2024 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Rick Draper
17.5 touring car, indoor carpet on quite a large track and occasionally a tight track. Any advice would be much appreciated.
There's so many variables that come into play here. But like Ron posted above, raising the timing takes away from the bottom end. I use much lower timing numbers on my motors in on-road and gear accordingly and have found that its helped me gain a lot in the in-field. Typical FDR's that I run are lower than most guys that run a lot of timing so I don't see any major loss down the straights. But the car pulls hard out of the corners with that bottom end. In 21.5 TC, I run 41* timing on the R1 Wurks V21-S, 37.5* timing on the HobbyWing 21.5 V10 G4.
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Old 09-10-2024 | 02:15 PM
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Well, I'm sure it's going to hated on because many people have their own way of doing things, but I have been asked how I tune motors. Here's my video for it.

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Old 09-16-2024 | 11:29 AM
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I finally got "The Jerry" up and running with video. So far, I tested the Tekin Gen4 R2 and the Hobbywing G4R. What's interesting, is once they reach a certain load, or temp, they operate more efficiently. The amperage will start going up, as the load increases. At one point, I increase the load, on both motors, and the current draw will drop. On the Hobbywing, it was more significant than the Tekin. Do any of you know why this happens? I'm quite curious about it.

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Old 09-16-2024 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by OffRoadJunkie
I finally got "The Jerry" up and running with video. So far, I tested the Tekin Gen4 R2 and the Hobbywing G4R. What's interesting, is once they reach a certain load, or temp, they operate more efficiently. The amperage will start going up, as the load increases. At one point, I increase the load, on both motors, and the current draw will drop. On the Hobbywing, it was more significant than the Tekin. Do any of you know why this happens? I'm quite curious about it.

https://youtu.be/GqczK8XPfY0
You’re really making me want to get one of these tunalizers. Must resist lol.
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Old 09-16-2024 | 01:19 PM
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I didn't have an amperage drop with my 17.5 G4R but I did see the loaded KV drop less at 47.2 degrees then went back up.
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Old 09-16-2024 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by petersen114
You’re really making me want to get one of these tunalizers. Must resist lol.
If you want to tune your motors, then one of these is a must. No more guessing where you are on the timing.


Originally Posted by ChocoTaco73
I didn't have an amperage drop with my 17.5 G4R but I did see the loaded KV drop less at 47.2 degrees then went back up.
that's about the same range I saw the amperage drop.
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Old 09-16-2024 | 03:37 PM
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[QUOTE=OffRoadJunkie;16127795]If you want to tune your motors, then one of these is a must. No more guessing where you are on the /QUOTE]
How is the load determined ie: weight of vehicle and drivetrain resistance, track surface, etc?
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Old 09-17-2024 | 01:38 PM
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[QUOTE=petersen114;16127805]
Originally Posted by OffRoadJunkie
If you want to tune your motors, then one of these is a must. No more guessing where you are on the /QUOTE]
How is the load determined ie: weight of vehicle and drivetrain resistance, track surface, etc?

Both. The timing "Sweet Spot" is a point you don't want to exceed. If you want more speed, you can gear it up. If you want less speed, you can gear it down and/or turn the timing down. The biggest thing to look at is the motor temps. Some like to run their motors to over 160*. That's pretty freaking hot, but you gotta do what you gotta do to keep up. The problem is, heat weakens the magnetic strength of the rotor. When the rotor cools down, the strength will return, but not all of it.

You can tune a motor higher, and it will go faster. The downside is, it will not be very efficient and will get really hot, really fast.
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Old 09-17-2024 | 01:46 PM
  #101  
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I still have 3 more motors in ready to throw on the Jerry. The Certified Slot Machine 1, Surpass V6 Spec, and the Surpass V6 Lightweight.

Do any of you want to see any other tests with the Tekin or Hobbywing? If not, I'm going to slang them to get new motors to test.
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Old 09-17-2024 | 02:16 PM
  #102  
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Since you mention having the Surpass V6 Spec, and the Surpass V6 Lightweight, How are they getting "Lightweight"? Different rotor?
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Old 09-17-2024 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mac The Knife
Since you mention having the Surpass V6 Spec, and the Surpass V6 Lightweight, How are they getting "Lightweight"? Different rotor?
The rotor is different, but it's the exact same size. Just not as strong. The light weight has a stator that is not as big. The difference in weight is less than an ounce.
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Old 09-21-2024 | 11:01 PM
  #104  
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I didn't test a motor in this video, but I show the difference, in performance, between a thin pinion vs. a standard width pinion.

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Old 09-22-2024 | 10:37 AM
  #105  
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No you tested power loss due to friction. Which would be a very interesting test if you then swapped to a actual thin pinion. Part of the advantage is the lighter weight, or really thats the main advantage.

It should just be more of a difference than your video showed. But your title is not really what you tested.
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