What did you test the rotor with?

WMH Rotor Master V2

As far as specs go they are very similar to the MC5, orange rotor motor has specs slightly higher, red rotor slightly lower but they all are close. I actually have a Surpass V6 heavyweight on order after watching your vids, hoping it gets here before I head to the track.

The lite weight does very well on highspeed tracks.

Just testing a HW 17.5 G4R motor on a WMH load tester and I am at 44 degrees of timing at the test keeps failing on my HW tunalyser when mated up to the slave motor. It runs the test until the final 70% when it stalls. Any ideas what I can do to stop it failing? Is it a case of it having too much timing?

It isn't to do with the timing per se. It happens, at least this is my best guess at why it happens, because the Tunalyzer runs in both directions and when it switches from reverse to forward that last time it can create a load higher than what the Tunalyzer can drive and the motor acts a lot like it is cogging. In my testing I only saw this on 13.5s and lower turn high torque motors, but HW says the amount of load the Tunalyzer can drive varies a between units. Now that is said, there are a few things you can do. 1, just do the manual test instead of the auto test. 2, be ready for the motor to stall and spin the adapter when it does, and it will continue the test (I have seen no difference in numbers doing this). 3, try a lower turn (ie, go to a 13.5 or 10.5 instead of the 17.5) slave motor, lower turn slave motors put less load on the motor under test. 4, I do have resistor banks with different values that put less load on the motor, I just don't have them listed on my site. If none of the above options work or are not practical for you, send me a pm.

What motor are you using for your slave motor? Did I miss that?

If you watched my video on this motor, I almost had the same issue. The motor would hesitate with the low power test. The Fantom Helix RS was even worse. When it would hesitate, I would give the motor a bump with my finger. That would get it spinning again.

While running my tests, the G4R ran best with at 50*. However, not all motors are the same, but I'm sure they are not 6* off.

Like Trilerian said, you can use the 2RJ (2ohm) resistor, and that will put less of a load on the motor.

Hey Trilerian.
I haven't heard from you in a bit. How are things going? Any new toys coming out from WMH Racing? I just posted a video of that contraption I was talking to you about.

What I really want, is a dyno that will allow me to change motor pinions to at least 5 different sizes.

I haven't been actively working on a new product. I have done some more testing on making my own analyzer, but that is still a ways off at this point. I've got a couple small things that I am working on for OEM and a custom project here and there, plus I am trying to get out and race mod TC on asphalt as much as I can. Summer months are a little slow as far as the RC business is concerned, so kind of getting a breather there, lol. But I expect in a couple of months I will be extremely busy again, especially since I am planning on going back to school for another degree. So I will have my fulltime job to do, the RC business, and a full class load. We'll see how that goes.

A dyno... I have toyed with the idea of making a dyno. There are a couple of concerns with making a dyno, the biggest is sourcing a flywheel and enclosure for it. The second is writing an application for Windows to run it. I can use a terminal emulator and stream the dyno data via serial then move that data into a spread sheet, but I think end users will want something a bit easier to use and not want to jump through hoops to make it work. Then, well, there already is a dyno on the market, the MiniPro. Yep, it is expensive, but if I make one it won't be cheap either. So the point being, I'm not sure there would be a good ROI as far as the business is concerned.

A thought I had about dyno for at least a motor dyno is using a control motor to provide the load instead of a flywheel. Then tune the software to the control motor. Excuse my ignorance.

I have been using a HobbyWing 13.5 G4 as the slave motor. Tried a Zombie 17.5 and I kept having the same issues as with the 17.5 G4R.

I see the dyno's out there, but from what I have read, you are not able to regear them. I want to be able to regear them to test different loads. A dyno will tell you the HP and torque of each motor, but not at the same that will not show a full view on how it would work under different conditions. It won't show how the torque and HP will equate when under the same load. I don't know if I'm making any sense. So, a torquey motor will take off faster, but can it be geared to go a fast as a higher HP motor, and how will it affect its overall performance?

For example, you have an engine will 500 ft lb of torque and 300 HP vs an engine with 300 ft lb of torque and 500 HP. How would those two engine, in the same car, compare on a track when geared differently?

That's not a very big load on the motor. I'm using a Surpass V6 and it has more of a load than 13.5. That's weird the HW is struggling to spin it. then again, I have heard the HW motors to be pretty inconsistent.

So I have posted my video of my latest motor tester. I have an 88% approval rating on it, so far. I wish people would tell me what they don't like about it so I can make changes. Do you guys see anything I should change? I know I was extremely tired when making. I don't think I explained myself very well in a few spots. I knew it would be a bit before I make another video, so I made this just before I packed it all up to move to my new house. Moving to a new home is the reason for me being so tired at the time.

I also tried a Zombie 17.5 and that was stalling as well.