That would be a lot bigger load. I'm sure it was stalling worse.

Sorry I meant a Zombie 17.5 with the G4 13.5 as the slave motor.

If anyone has a V2 Motolyser for sale I would happily buy it.

There is one for sale in the f/s section.

With that said. 13.5t load motor is a heavy load. Most everyone i see with load motors use a 21.5t motor.

21.5 as a slave motor will put more load than a 13.5 will. Now you might be able to find an old worn out 21.5 from 10 years ago that puts less load than a brand new high torque 13.5, but that is a fringe case.

Can I ask what leans you towards a Motolyser?

Nothing really, just thought seen as I am having no luck with the HW I might as well try something else. What do you recommend?.

I use the HW for all my tests. I really like that it has the regulated power feature and ability to run ESC's from. The only thing I wish it could do, that the Motolyzer can do, is print the performance numbers.

Sorry just seeing this....... setup has been decent in limited testing so far. The indoor clay season has dwindled with folks racing outdoor 1/8 until the Fall and at that point I will get much more time with this setup.

So far so good, but also not a "night and day" type of difference compared to what I was running with the New Wave, but in testing I was dealing with lower traction conditions than a full race card would have.

Have any of you guys heard from MiniPro in the past.. month or two? All my emails are going unanswered now.

I now have my Tunalyser and my Motolyser and a test bench. Can I ask how I go about tuning a motor into its sweet spot? When sort of figures am I watching for jump? I think when I was messing around I noticed the amp draw jump a lot with 2 degrees of timing change as I got up to 50 degrees of timing and the power rating started to tail off.

You have the right thought. As you start to adjust the timing, you will add 5* and notice about a 1 amp increase. You will then reach a point where you add 1* and you'll see a 1 amp increase. You want to stop at the point just before you see that amp jump. From what I've seen, you'll want to stop when your amp draw is around 5.5 amps, but no more than 6 amps.

I would highly suggest against tuning for a specific amp draw and maxing out your timing. It all depends on what class you are running and the track layout.

For example, if you 're running 13.5 Mudboss oval racing your average RPM will be a lot higher than let's say if you were running 21.5 TC on a small on-road rack with 12 turns.

17.5 touring car, indoor carpet on quite a large track and occasionally a tight track. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Speaking from what I mostly heard is the best, find the sweet spot, then gear your car accordingly.

That tripping point is the secret. Below it you can use a range of timing and match it with correct gearing. Base that off the time sheets and motor temp. That is the secret to getting it right. One thing I do know from using a dyno. Peak power goes up as you increase timing. Bottom end torque will go down though. Got to get the right spot for the track and you.