For TT01 and TT02 hop ups, is it still RC MART, and Asiatees that are kings?

Maybe there is other great chinese online shops also? better than these ? in case of old Tamiya Hop Ups ?

I use TQ RC Racing and Integy.

I implore You, Please don’t encourage nor engage this poster.
He or it needs to go away, They are all over in the last few months posting nonsensical baloney trying to sell Chinese bullcrap. Please ignore Him,It,They, whatever.

I apologize if I have posted this previously. If you own a TT01 or TT02 you may be interested if you live in the Chicagoland area. The Hobbytown in St. Charles, IL has an indoor and outdoor racing series. They have a TT Class. I have included their rules. The next parking lot race is July 1st.

I have these on my parking lot car. I replaced the existing kit screws with these after already assembling the kit. I have not stripped any heads or threads. Not many high torque needs on a TT02.

TT02 parking lot racing is fun.

I was looking for parts online recently and came across Tamiya 54815 (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...erlwr-sus-arm/)

This part number is listed for the TT02 B kit, due to the lower suspension arms. Has anyone used the reinforced gearbox covers that come with it on their regular TT-02 on-road cars? I looked at some Japanese reviews on Amazon, and it looks like it should fit. The only downside is not needing TT-02 B lower a-arms.

Also if you have a chance, download the new TT-02 SRX manual and you can see some of the XV-02 parts that are used in the driveline. Look for the red circle with a white down arrow on the following page/link

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...x-chassis-kit/

Yup, 54815 fits. I grabbed a sprue after seeing mentions earlier in this thread that people sometimes break the gear cover in a crash and I'm a sucker for "Oh, that's available, I'll spend." Can't say if it makes any difference or not (haven't finished that particular build yet) but it does allow for a third screw to attach your carbon damper mounts and the ones from PSM are pre-dimpled for the hole, you just have to drill it out. The dimple is about .5mm low, so drill on the high side of it.

Wasn't quite sure where to ask this, but this felt like a good a place as any. Any thoughts on a set of light buckets to fit this body? It's a McAllister Riley Daytona Prototype that's going on a TT02 for some night racing. Was going to try to make my own, but the shape is a bit tricky. Might still go that route.

I'm not aware of any that might fit out of the box. I've had good success with cutting light buckets out of random blister packs from various things, and then secured it with either servo tape, shoe goo, or that foil tape. I will say this has usually been for tail lights, and I typically keep the decal on so it looks better. Not always an easy task but Ive started to save any bits of plastic packaging that I could repurpose for this very reason. Good luck!

maybe a light bar inside the windshield bc that tire is awfully close to the headlight area. Think about the wires sticking out of the bucket if you decide to put an led there.

It'll be a bit tight, but there's enough space. The shape is rather tricky, but I'm thinking I'll have to settle for "close enough".

In response to light buckets....

If the goal with the headlights is to have a "clear lens" on the outside of the body with a housing with light on the inside of the body, I would suggest searching online for rc light buckets or rc universal light buckets. There is a company called Firebrand RC that sells a kit of some generic light buckets. There are also some of these bucket kits that come in chrome.

Another option might be to use/modify a light bar kit with round fixtures/lenses and mount it the inside of the body. You will often see these types of lights or fixtures on r/c crawlers. Axial sells AX30709 Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set that might be interesting.

-----------

If the goal is to put the light sticker/decal on the outside of the body and just shine a light through it, there may not be a need for a light bucket at all. You could simply secure an led light on the inside of the body. You may or may not want to mask off/not paint the area behind the sticker/decal depending on how bright you want the light shining through. LED lights tend to be very bright and having a sticker in front can make them be a bit less blinding.

Always test and double check before installing lights this way so you can determine if there are any hots spots or areas of light bleeding through the body in areas you don't want.

----------

The above options will be better suited on bodies that are meant to be displayed. If you are planning to race the body (such as in a 12 or 24 hours day to night or similar race, I would recommend using a light kit that mounts through the body. These type of light kits usually require drilling a small hole and a light mount that goes thru the body from the front and attaches with some type of nut on the back.

These types of lights would be a little more crash resistant if racing as they are less likely to be knocked off the body due to crashes. Unfortunately due the angle of prototype front ends, as light kit like this may end up pointing in the air more than straight ahead.

There are plenty of cheap versions of these light kits online, some even less that $10 USD.

----------

Another option would be to use/adapt light kits meant for a different r/c body. A possible candidate could be the Tamiya Mercedes C11 body. Tamiya recently had a limited re-release of the kit which is #47848. This body has its own "pan car" style chassis, so the wheel arches may not match a standard TC like the TT02 or a TC01.

Many Tamiya kits come with light buckets such as the Subaru BRZ ZD8, but this particular bodies' light buckets would probably not be suited to a prototype front end. Maybe one of the Porsche body's light buckets could work?
----------

As others have already stated, plastic blister packaging is so common that they even sell cutting tools to help open some of those impossible packages. The nice thing about the blister packaging is that it is often thinner plastic than r/c bodies, so it would be easier to modify and/or heat up and bend to custom shape. A good choice that many people in this hobby may already have is the plastic packaging with AA batteries. Next time you are in a general goods store, look around see all of the plastic packaging.

----------

One final suggestion I just found by doing a quick internet/YouTube search is to use/modify an aluminum drink can. This thickness of aluminum can be cut using some cheap scissors and bent easily by hand. Just be careful when cutting/bending metals to watch out for sharp edges.

----------

Don't forget to watch rc light bucket videos on YouTube as they can be informative or entertaining.

Hope this information helps.

Hi everyone,

i’ve recently started racing 1/10 onroad and Im having a blast.

There’s just something that keeps catching me out and I’m not sure if its something I’m doing wrong or what.

The track is asphalt and it gets sugared and cleaned with a blower.

So my last race with my TT02, on practice day I had a ton of grip, I used tyre warmers with goop.
Race day, also tyre warmers and goop but a lot less traction.

I would say both days were more or less the same temperature wise and I was running sweeps 32s which were one race day old from my 21.5.
I did use older team powers on practice though, I do not know the softness.

The race before the same thing happened, I used to use WD40 before I got the goop and tyre warmers, and it was like the car was on ice.

On that practice I used old rush tyres and on race day I tried the same team powers as mentioned above and I quickly switched back to the rush tyres because of the lack of grip - ice…

Admittedly I wasn’t able to apply the tyre warmers for the same duration as on practice because I was running two classes.

My 21.5 looks like it doesn’t have the same grip as the rest of the top 3 but then that could just be my skill level with the 21.5s.

I know its a long post and any advice would be greatly appreciated.