I'm not aware of any that might fit out of the box. I've had good success with cutting light buckets out of random blister packs from various things, and then secured it with either servo tape, shoe goo, or that foil tape. I will say this has usually been for tail lights, and I typically keep the decal on so it looks better. Not always an easy task but Ive started to save any bits of plastic packaging that I could repurpose for this very reason. Good luck!

maybe a light bar inside the windshield bc that tire is awfully close to the headlight area. Think about the wires sticking out of the bucket if you decide to put an led there.

It'll be a bit tight, but there's enough space. The shape is rather tricky, but I'm thinking I'll have to settle for "close enough".

In response to light buckets....

If the goal with the headlights is to have a "clear lens" on the outside of the body with a housing with light on the inside of the body, I would suggest searching online for rc light buckets or rc universal light buckets. There is a company called Firebrand RC that sells a kit of some generic light buckets. There are also some of these bucket kits that come in chrome.

Another option might be to use/modify a light bar kit with round fixtures/lenses and mount it the inside of the body. You will often see these types of lights or fixtures on r/c crawlers. Axial sells AX30709 Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set that might be interesting.

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If the goal is to put the light sticker/decal on the outside of the body and just shine a light through it, there may not be a need for a light bucket at all. You could simply secure an led light on the inside of the body. You may or may not want to mask off/not paint the area behind the sticker/decal depending on how bright you want the light shining through. LED lights tend to be very bright and having a sticker in front can make them be a bit less blinding.

Always test and double check before installing lights this way so you can determine if there are any hots spots or areas of light bleeding through the body in areas you don't want.

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The above options will be better suited on bodies that are meant to be displayed. If you are planning to race the body (such as in a 12 or 24 hours day to night or similar race, I would recommend using a light kit that mounts through the body. These type of light kits usually require drilling a small hole and a light mount that goes thru the body from the front and attaches with some type of nut on the back.

These types of lights would be a little more crash resistant if racing as they are less likely to be knocked off the body due to crashes. Unfortunately due the angle of prototype front ends, as light kit like this may end up pointing in the air more than straight ahead.

There are plenty of cheap versions of these light kits online, some even less that $10 USD.

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Another option would be to use/adapt light kits meant for a different r/c body. A possible candidate could be the Tamiya Mercedes C11 body. Tamiya recently had a limited re-release of the kit which is #47848. This body has its own "pan car" style chassis, so the wheel arches may not match a standard TC like the TT02 or a TC01.

Many Tamiya kits come with light buckets such as the Subaru BRZ ZD8, but this particular bodies' light buckets would probably not be suited to a prototype front end. Maybe one of the Porsche body's light buckets could work?
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As others have already stated, plastic blister packaging is so common that they even sell cutting tools to help open some of those impossible packages. The nice thing about the blister packaging is that it is often thinner plastic than r/c bodies, so it would be easier to modify and/or heat up and bend to custom shape. A good choice that many people in this hobby may already have is the plastic packaging with AA batteries. Next time you are in a general goods store, look around see all of the plastic packaging.

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One final suggestion I just found by doing a quick internet/YouTube search is to use/modify an aluminum drink can. This thickness of aluminum can be cut using some cheap scissors and bent easily by hand. Just be careful when cutting/bending metals to watch out for sharp edges.

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Don't forget to watch rc light bucket videos on YouTube as they can be informative or entertaining.

Hope this information helps.

Hi everyone,

i’ve recently started racing 1/10 onroad and Im having a blast.

There’s just something that keeps catching me out and I’m not sure if its something I’m doing wrong or what.

The track is asphalt and it gets sugared and cleaned with a blower.

So my last race with my TT02, on practice day I had a ton of grip, I used tyre warmers with goop.
Race day, also tyre warmers and goop but a lot less traction.

I would say both days were more or less the same temperature wise and I was running sweeps 32s which were one race day old from my 21.5.
I did use older team powers on practice though, I do not know the softness.

The race before the same thing happened, I used to use WD40 before I got the goop and tyre warmers, and it was like the car was on ice.

On that practice I used old rush tyres and on race day I tried the same team powers as mentioned above and I quickly switched back to the rush tyres because of the lack of grip - ice…

Admittedly I wasn’t able to apply the tyre warmers for the same duration as on practice because I was running two classes.

My 21.5 looks like it doesn’t have the same grip as the rest of the top 3 but then that could just be my skill level with the 21.5s.

I know its a long post and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

From my knowledge, Sweep tires have never been a go to tire in finding grip on the track. NEVER. Tires are the number on factor in getting your car dialed to the track. Stay with what tires seem to work for you. If you find a tire that works for you, buy a new set and run them in race. Also, don't be afraid to ask the top 3 drivers what tires they are running and try them. Make sure you get the sauce info also.

thank you for the reply.

I’ve been thinking of trying another brand of tyres as I have only been hearing bad things about sweeps and haven’t had much success with them myself either.

One thing that could have an effect too is humidity levels.
Our indoor asphalt track experienced this a couple times when I started racing there 3 years ago.
Our race director turned on the heat in the morning to get the track warm (since we only race there in the winter) couple of hours before we showed up. Track is coated with a mixture of soda, corn syrup and alcohol. Track had amazing grip in the morning, but the building started to get too hot and the heat was turned off. That's when the humidity level started to go up turning the track into wet sugar then we had no grip (and my tires were coated in sugar which was a pain to scrub off).
Once the humidty levels dropped back down the track was great.

That sounds like something to take in account but, it looked I was the only one affected and no else complained about the lack of grip.

Guys were zooming through corners and my car didn’t even had the straight line grip it had the day before.

For the GT PRO Spec class in TCS, do any of the current bodies have a clear advantage or disadvantage?

Wow, that’s something to look for, great advice that.

The tires I used are for outdoor - EXX R3, 24mm, 32deg.

IMO not really. They spec motor is so slow that you want to take a nap. 😂 your advance would be in I’m a light weight version of the listed bodies, I think the Mustang and Mercedes have them.!

Thanks! I ended up with a Porsche GT3 and a Ford GT to play with.

Next question, does anyone have a good starting setup for black carpet? It will have oil shocks, oil diff, and either spool or putty diff in front and start out on Jaco Blues.

Is the gear cover a required item for TCS? I’m thinking of building one for the wife to run in the novice class and figured I’d ask in advance.

I keep everything TCS legal for obvious reasons