Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
#1487
Anyone having issues with leaking shock caps? It's pushing a little oil out of the vent holes in the side. Orings are seated properly in the cap, but when I tighten the cap, I don't feel the resistance of the oring. Cap bottoms out on the body without feeling the oring start to pinch.
#1488
Anyone having issues with leaking shock caps? It's pushing a little oil out of the vent holes in the side. Orings are seated properly in the cap, but when I tighten the cap, I don't feel the resistance of the oring. Cap bottoms out on the body without feeling the oring start to pinch.
I tore it apart and had metal from cutting threads I guess from machining process
rebuilt it and now to see if it is correct
#1489
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
I'd also like to know! ( I've read every page of this thread and don't recall an answer)
All I know is wider offsets definitely helped in 4wd short course. Truggy class is by far the easiest thing I've ever driven and I'm pretty sure it's the longer wheel base / wider track that makes it so stable.
I have a full set of 2mm's on the way from Tower hobbies and I'm curious to see if I lose any traction or steering. Both of which can probably be "tuned" to accept the wider track while adding stability.....?
I'll let you know how it goes.
#1490
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
Thanks again for the tip. I ended up with two per wheel bearing to correct the "rim scrub" and the side effect was no more slop (in and out) of the outdrives.
I'll be testing a full set of 2mm offset hubs next week (for added stability, not the rim scrub), which will most definitely eliminate the scrubbing problem, but will continue to use the O-rings just for the no slop benefit.
#1491
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 32
From: FRANCE
I'd tried the offset +1.
It works well on the rear if you want more stability at corner entry. It will slide a little bit more on exit, but smoothly. On a rough surface, it's a easy way to tune. But, in first, try another dampening.
If you put +1 offsert only on the front, the car could be twitchy, so i don't recommand it.
On the front+rear, i don't have try.
It works well on the rear if you want more stability at corner entry. It will slide a little bit more on exit, but smoothly. On a rough surface, it's a easy way to tune. But, in first, try another dampening.
If you put +1 offsert only on the front, the car could be twitchy, so i don't recommand it.
On the front+rear, i don't have try.
#1494
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
Thanks again for the tip. I ended up with two per wheel bearing to correct the "rim scrub" and the side effect was no more slop (in and out) of the outdrives.
I'll be testing a full set of 2mm offset hubs next week (for added stability, not the rim scrub), which will most definitely eliminate the scrubbing problem, but will continue to use the O-rings just for the no slop benefit.
I'll be testing a full set of 2mm offset hubs next week (for added stability, not the rim scrub), which will most definitely eliminate the scrubbing problem, but will continue to use the O-rings just for the no slop benefit.
well.... It's been awhile since that post and Tower hobbies dropped the ball big time. I never received the hubs (OR THE LYNX4s RADIO), but they were nice about it all and I did end up with the radio (from Amain). I forgot to order hubs...🙁
After taking with one of our fast guys, he suggested stock (0-offset) or at MOST 1mm offset if I absolutely HAD to try them.....and I DO!
I'll report my results when I get/test them.
#1495
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
Yep, what "kryss" said. WAY too much trouble and money to convert it. Do yourself a huge (and I mean HUGE) favor and get the EB48.4...... you will not regret😊
#1496
Just get an eb48.4, you can get a used one here for a good deal i'd imagine. the eb48 and nb48 have different a lot of different parts. you could convert a sct easier than the nb. the rear diff housing is offset different than the eb, it's not worth converting. you could also try selling the nb48.3 and using that towards a eb48.4. if money is an issue, check out towerhobbies and use coupons + easy pay, it will divide the payments across 3 months and there's no fee and free shipping. that's what i did when i bought a new eb and electronics for it, since motor, esc, etc. is expensive. but easy pay made it np... haha
they do share a lot of similar parts, but since you are changing to the .4, there really isn't anything you can salvage.
they do share a lot of similar parts, but since you are changing to the .4, there really isn't anything you can salvage.
#1497
Got time to run my EB48.4 at the opening race at PRCP raceway. The track was changed to be significantly more technical. I went with what the previous owner had setup which I believe is this setup:
https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg
For our conditions, it was significantly more loose than what i felt comfortable with.
So figure this as a starting base, what are some changes you would make for this setup for conditions that are more loose?
https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg
For our conditions, it was significantly more loose than what i felt comfortable with.
So figure this as a starting base, what are some changes you would make for this setup for conditions that are more loose?
#1498
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 181
Hey guys, I'm currently looking for a new ebuggy. I got my eyes on the eb48.4 and the serpent srx8e. Now it's literally one eye on the eb48.4 and another on srx8e and the only thing that holds my one eye to the serpent is because of the plastic spindles, spindle carriers, rear upright, and center diff mount. Right out of the box, the serpent got all the said parts in aluminum. So that is my only doubt... How does the said parts holds up to average abuse?
One moe thing, I want to know what parts should I have in stock incase of any breakages?
One moe thing, I want to know what parts should I have in stock incase of any breakages?
#1500
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 181
Hey guys, I'm looking for a new ebuggy. Now I got my eye on the EB48.4 but my other eye also looking at the serpent SRX8E.
The only reason for that is because of the spindle, spindle carrier, rear hub and center diff mount are aluminum out of the box for the serpent.
So my question is. How does all the said parts hold up to some average abuse (track day once a week)?
Second question, what parts should I stock up incase anything breaks?
The only reason for that is because of the spindle, spindle carrier, rear hub and center diff mount are aluminum out of the box for the serpent.
So my question is. How does all the said parts hold up to some average abuse (track day once a week)?
Second question, what parts should I stock up incase anything breaks?





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