Advantage 3:

The larger pinion gear provides more contact area between the teeth and a smoother tooth plunge as the gears mesh. This results in less drag and less wear as well.

Anyone know where I can find the length of the center drive shaft?

aluminium center drive shaft is 187mm long or 182mm from pin to pin. i killed one that's why it was laying around and easy to measure

Thank You!

I'm planning to build a EB48.4 and have a couple of questions about lipos please.

1. Is there any height restriction on 4s lipos because of the low body? A friend has a Reedy 4s 5200 in his EB48.3 and they are about 10mm less tall than an average 4s.

2. Is there a recommended 4s lipo weight to aim for to maintain the left to right balance? Planning a Tekin RX8 (~77g) and Tekin T8 1900kv (~311g) and undecided on servo (~?g).

Thanks! I'm looking forward to joining the Tekno club soon!

The body on the tekno rig is a tight fit. Shorter/smaller lipo will fit better. A bigger concern might be the balance plug wires being in the center of the pack where the front to rear strap would lay on the lipo. The center strap locates lipo front or rearward for some balance adjustment if your pack doesn't fill the tray.

As for balance left to right, there are too many variables in electronics to confirm one weight is best. Suggest you load up chassis with all of your electronics and lipo of choice. Then take the time to balance the chassis left to right. That's something worth doing on any new build. Waste of time if you don't run the same lipo every run, so good idea to invest in 2 lipos of same weight and design for repeatable performance IMO.

I'm surprised a moderator has not busted your chops about this. Post your listing in the for sale section.
R/C Items: For Sale/Trade - R/C Tech Forums

Our season is over but the 24t horn got here ok!

BTW, the hitec servo screws aren't standard size. I ended up getting some 2.6x8mm Cap Head Screws (AXIA0023) and they fit perfectly. With the cap head you can ensure they are tight !

however the motor won't sit as close to the center compared to a smaller pinion

Thinking I'm going to upgrade to the .4 next year. Had the .3 last year. I just couldn't get it to rotate.

What's a good starting setup?

Million dollar question. I wish there was an easy answer, but there are none. Setup depends on so many things such as track size, jumps, dirt consistency and driving style. Best I could suggest is something proven to work.

Pick your poison here. https://lutzinator.com/setup-sheets/

Just keep in mind the Pro can drive an aggressively setup car and that will likely make most people slower. There is no substitute for track time and changes you test yourself for your track. I suggest you pick a setup and change it to your needs as you go. If you are lucky one of the tracks listed is one you race on or know about to compare with yours. I hope that helps get you started.

Alot of guys complained about lack of steering with the box setup.

Alot of guys would suggest starting with one of Joe's setups.

Myself, I would start with the recommended setup found here. https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...d%20Indoor.pdf

One thing to note though, that was indoors and 75°, if considerably warmer than that, go higher shock fluids (Not too extreme. 50-100CST based on temp) and the same with if your running in cooler, you would drop by same amounts.

I'm still only a few changes from that setup.

Thx for the advice!

My experience with the .3 was a lack of steering or rotating so that the rear was still planted while on power steering. It helped a ton to rake the car a lot and i used much lighter fluid in the front than the rear. The car got much better doing that but i had a chance to run a .4 and i was very impressed with it. Hoping to have a much better turning car as a result