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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 05-05-2018 | 02:25 PM
  #1486  
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Tekno only makes 44t and I think they may have a 46t available...not sure if someone else makes different ones for them though?
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Old 05-07-2018 | 12:31 PM
  #1487  
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Anyone having issues with leaking shock caps? It's pushing a little oil out of the vent holes in the side. Orings are seated properly in the cap, but when I tighten the cap, I don't feel the resistance of the oring. Cap bottoms out on the body without feeling the oring start to pinch.
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Old 05-08-2018 | 07:24 AM
  #1488  
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Originally Posted by vfrninja
Anyone having issues with leaking shock caps? It's pushing a little oil out of the vent holes in the side. Orings are seated properly in the cap, but when I tighten the cap, I don't feel the resistance of the oring. Cap bottoms out on the body without feeling the oring start to pinch.
following, my brand new kit did this only in 1 shock
I tore it apart and had metal from cutting threads I guess from machining process
rebuilt it and now to see if it is correct
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Old 05-18-2018 | 11:56 PM
  #1489  
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Originally Posted by JoeW
Anyone run the wider 1 or 2mm wheel offsets? Curious if they make a difference in outdoor rougher conditions.

I'd also like to know! ( I've read every page of this thread and don't recall an answer)

All I know is wider offsets definitely helped in 4wd short course. Truggy class is by far the easiest thing I've ever driven and I'm pretty sure it's the longer wheel base / wider track that makes it so stable.

I have a full set of 2mm's on the way from Tower hobbies and I'm curious to see if I lose any traction or steering. Both of which can probably be "tuned" to accept the wider track while adding stability.....?

I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 05-19-2018 | 12:10 AM
  #1490  
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Originally Posted by kryss
Add one diff shim between each hub and bearing out. It gives more gap between rims and hub. For the spindle carrier, you can try dremeling a little bit the nut's camberlink area. Make a chamfer.

Thanks again for the tip. I ended up with two per wheel bearing to correct the "rim scrub" and the side effect was no more slop (in and out) of the outdrives.

I'll be testing a full set of 2mm offset hubs next week (for added stability, not the rim scrub), which will most definitely eliminate the scrubbing problem, but will continue to use the O-rings just for the no slop benefit.
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Old 05-21-2018 | 02:31 AM
  #1491  
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I'd tried the offset +1.
It works well on the rear if you want more stability at corner entry. It will slide a little bit more on exit, but smoothly. On a rough surface, it's a easy way to tune. But, in first, try another dampening.
If you put +1 offsert only on the front, the car could be twitchy, so i don't recommand it.

On the front+rear, i don't have try.
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Old 05-22-2018 | 10:44 AM
  #1492  
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Not sure where to ask this, I currently have a nb48.3. Nitro is dead in my area, would it be worth converting to electric? Anyone done this? Was it worth it? What all is needed to convert? Thanks
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Old 05-23-2018 | 04:19 AM
  #1493  
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chassis, chassis brace, center diff, center shaft, battery & elec tray, body...etc.
Sell your NB and buy a new EB, in my opinion
57ratrod and billdelong like this.
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Old 06-06-2018 | 10:12 PM
  #1494  
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Originally Posted by XLosiguy
Thanks again for the tip. I ended up with two per wheel bearing to correct the "rim scrub" and the side effect was no more slop (in and out) of the outdrives.

I'll be testing a full set of 2mm offset hubs next week (for added stability, not the rim scrub), which will most definitely eliminate the scrubbing problem, but will continue to use the O-rings just for the no slop benefit.


well.... It's been awhile since that post and Tower hobbies dropped the ball big time. I never received the hubs (OR THE LYNX4s RADIO), but they were nice about it all and I did end up with the radio (from Amain). I forgot to order hubs...🙁

After taking with one of our fast guys, he suggested stock (0-offset) or at MOST 1mm offset if I absolutely HAD to try them.....and I DO!

I'll report my results when I get/test them.
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Old 06-06-2018 | 10:16 PM
  #1495  
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Originally Posted by 57ratrod
Not sure where to ask this, I currently have a nb48.3. Nitro is dead in my area, would it be worth converting to electric? Anyone done this? Was it worth it? What all is needed to convert? Thanks

Yep, what "kryss" said. WAY too much trouble and money to convert it. Do yourself a huge (and I mean HUGE) favor and get the EB48.4...... you will not regret😊
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Old 06-08-2018 | 07:03 PM
  #1496  
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Just get an eb48.4, you can get a used one here for a good deal i'd imagine. the eb48 and nb48 have different a lot of different parts. you could convert a sct easier than the nb. the rear diff housing is offset different than the eb, it's not worth converting. you could also try selling the nb48.3 and using that towards a eb48.4. if money is an issue, check out towerhobbies and use coupons + easy pay, it will divide the payments across 3 months and there's no fee and free shipping. that's what i did when i bought a new eb and electronics for it, since motor, esc, etc. is expensive. but easy pay made it np... haha

they do share a lot of similar parts, but since you are changing to the .4, there really isn't anything you can salvage.
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Old 06-09-2018 | 06:32 PM
  #1497  
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Got time to run my EB48.4 at the opening race at PRCP raceway. The track was changed to be significantly more technical. I went with what the previous owner had setup which I believe is this setup:

https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg

For our conditions, it was significantly more loose than what i felt comfortable with.

So figure this as a starting base, what are some changes you would make for this setup for conditions that are more loose?
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Old 06-09-2018 | 08:42 PM
  #1498  
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Hey guys, I'm currently looking for a new ebuggy. I got my eyes on the eb48.4 and the serpent srx8e. Now it's literally one eye on the eb48.4 and another on srx8e and the only thing that holds my one eye to the serpent is because of the plastic spindles, spindle carriers, rear upright, and center diff mount. Right out of the box, the serpent got all the said parts in aluminum. So that is my only doubt... How does the said parts holds up to average abuse?

One moe thing, I want to know what parts should I have in stock incase of any breakages?
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Old 06-11-2018 | 04:28 AM
  #1499  
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You can try pistons 3x2.2 in front and 3x2.1 in rear. And add 1mm droop in front and rear.
But, in first, try some tires.
May be, springs LF grey/yellow
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Old 06-11-2018 | 07:06 AM
  #1500  
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Hey guys, I'm looking for a new ebuggy. Now I got my eye on the EB48.4 but my other eye also looking at the serpent SRX8E.

The only reason for that is because of the spindle, spindle carrier, rear hub and center diff mount are aluminum out of the box for the serpent.

So my question is. How does all the said parts hold up to some average abuse (track day once a week)?

Second question, what parts should I stock up incase anything breaks?
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