The Putoline 959 is a 2-stroke oil.

Probably they do that as in the same way I had my 1st thoughts. Any methanol friendly (mixable) oil will give less mess inside the engine and giving a good start and lubrication.
Standard motor oils which do not mix with methanol can a give strange gray blub inside but when most oil has dripped out I have not seen an issue. And if you clean it all out with brake cleaner and re-oil it all with afterrun oil for sure nothing can go wrong.
Be aware that most castor oils have a high viscocity and do not provide the right lubrication for this way of breaking in an engine.

I was also thinking of Marvel mystery oil. It even has a lower viscocity and is a well known used afterrrun oil but never tryed it.

Has anyone tried breaking in a Picco motor yet.

All kind of engines are done on such machines. If it is needed with the low pinch Picco engines is a question but still 2 or 4 hours in the machine still does give a mirror like finishing.

What would I use for a heater? I bought the temperature control, and what I thought were heaters, but they're thermocouples.

Thermocouples are just temperature sensors.....


As heaters you can use cartridge heaters, they do come in 120, 220 and in 12v I use 12v heaters.

oh, I know. I just didn't read the description correctly.

In the past I did got a very small temperature controler and with some other stuff it was time to build a new one. Actually I was asked to break in an .12 engine which my machine has no option for although I do know what to make for it. But with some stuf I had I made a new one which can do small block and big block engines.

De machine





As with the 3 previous models I made for friends the main unit is mounted on a slide to fit in the bath. The bath is now made of Acryl which seems to withstand the temperatures as well and is much easier to find a glue to work with.





The electronics do fit in a small case attached to the unit.



Same flex coupler and shims under the motormount to adjust height.



The unit is made of 10mm lexan and has an aluminium insert holding the heaters and the motor. No direct heating on the head but due the hybrid construction all heat will stay in a small volume and is directly transferred to the engine. But yes, it does take a longer pre-heating time.



Same kind of parts made as with previous models.





The engine mounts can hold .12 and .21 engines and are in width adjustable



Only a ring is needed to keep the sleeve on its place. The ring can be mounted on 2 sides, One side is for an .12 engine and the other side for an .21 engine





Again an open and adjustable backplate to deal with all kind of engines to keep the rod on the crakpin. Now with large slots for the mounting screws to fit all size of engines.

Mine is done. How hot should I run it? And how long?

Most engines 400 to 500rpm at 85 degrees celcius for 4 hours with an oil with a viscocity of 10 and lower at 100 degrees celcius. Standard 0W20 or 0W15 motor oil is working great.

I only have 400 rpms and 0w20

should work fine!

Did my first motor and it came out pretty nice. Nice shiny ring on the sleeve and a dull ring on the piston. I plan on doing one rich tank on the box, then 500CCs on the track where I lean it out a bit with each tank. Whats everybody doing?

2 or 3 tanks a tiny bit on the rich side is enough.

4 hours was not where near enough...