I think increased runtime would be an incorrect expectation to switch to brushless.

Brushless provides reduced maintenance and increased speed/power. The gear ratio will be completely different for brushless, so if you go that route, you'll need the spur gear mod and go to a much smaller 64pitch spur than what is stock with the kits.

If you want more runtime, upgrade the lipo cells to a higher capacity.

so it was a 17.5t brushless i was thinking, i think the sport tuned is 23t (brushed) I thought they may have been comparable but maybe im off, maybe 21.5t would be closer?

yeh i already have the high speed gear set in. i will gear it to run roughly the same speed as i run now.
I run with a few other guys and we want competition so im not after higher speed
but in general if using a brushless system vs brushed if your doing roughly the same work then brush less is more efficient and so all else being equal uses less power.

its certainly true in other applications but other factors could be at play here?

My friends and I had an awesome weekend taking part in the Tamiya Euro Cup Stock class (TT-02 box stock, even esc and motor). I could win the class after hard fights through qualifying and finals.










Here is the full story:
https://www.facebook.com/blautalrcca...90338654417875


And videos:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=119s&v=XBJRy8YleXs

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WgXBs2NL-8U

Fix

[QUOTE=wtcc;15173603]My friends and I had an awesome weekend taking part in the Tamiya Euro Cup Stock class (TT-02 box stock, even esc and motor). I could win the class after hard fights through qualifying and finals.










Here is the full story:
https://www.facebook.com/blautalrcca...90338654417875


And videos:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=119s&v=XBJRy8YleXs

Congrats with your win. Nice videos and pictures...

Which of the kits come with the Torque Tuned Motor ?
The motor specs are not helpfull, some sites say Torque Tuned , other sites say
plain ol 540 motor.

The local TT02 race class uses the Torque Tuned Motor as spec motor, so I really need to but the kit with that included, not a kit with the old standard silvercan

All 2015 Super GT kits got one: Autech Nismo Nissan GT-R, Petronas Lexus LCF and Raybrig Honda NSX.
Also the Raikiri GT

My son runs a TT02 in our novice class, I started w/ the silver can, then the sport tuned, then a 21.5t and now a 17.5t. The car is definitely fastest w/ the 17.5t motor in it. I've gradually increased the speed as my sons skill has increased. This is all over a year and a half time period. ...keep in mind though that even if you put a 17.5 in the car you can gear down and turn your throttle down on the controller to slow it down (I actually turned ours down a bit as the 17.5 was a tad too fast for him).

The TT02 has been a great car, ...its pretty solid can take a beating and parts are easy to find and not expensive.

Just built my TT02 a few weeks ago. I got the chassis from the 99' Impreza kit which I originally bought for its rereleased body only, left the car unbuilt until I started running with a group of guys that does weekend parking lot racing.

I have to say I'm quite impressed with the kit even in box stock form, drives nice and the drivetrain is definitely much quieter than the TB01 I used to own.



I have since upgraded the driveline parts, as well as the steering. Threw in a set of YR dampers I had laying around.



The YR steering set is nice for its price compared to the Tamiya. I added two extra 3x6 bearings on top of the bridge that took all the slop out, however the screws need to be held by thread lock to avoid binding the bearings.

Now with the YR motor mount I'll be switching from 21.5 to a 17.5

I finaly got some run time last week. The vampire racing 17.5t is great! I geared at around 96/42 and ran at 1/4 timing on the motor and the car is exactly comparable to how it ran with the sport tuned running 68/22 when benchmarked against a few friends. For info 2 are running a hpi firebolt 15t which is actuqly comparable to the sport tuned the way we are running.

Question on my set up. I am.running super mini cva. Blue rear. Yellow front. I find thatvthe car is great but tlwhen it does let go the front hooks badly and i go tound in circles. Im running 2mm spacers in the cva's frontand rear to reduce droop but i still find adding a lot of preload to the rear to give me zero droop at the back gives me a very stable and planted rear end. I can take huge liberties going into conrners and its fine.
Any thoughts on that. Should i just add more spacers to the rear to reduce rear droop further?

Thanks

To add: first impressions are also that i got increased runtimes over the sport tuned.

You are the second guy on this thread who is running the stiffer spring in the rear. I have always been of the thought that the stiffer springs should be in the front and softer in the rear (all full size cars do this). I am running Super Mini CVA's as well with 40wt oil and the blues up front and yellows in the rear on a unprepared tennis court with good results.

I would guess if you took out a lot of the droop in the rear it is "forcing" the front to compress and work harder? Not sure.

Cheers,
Jim

Also, if you’re felling a tad retro, the kit 58571 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR TT-02 I ordered came with the torque tuned motor. There is a yellow sticker on the lower right corner of the box indicating the Torque Tuned Motor and speed controller inside.

Porsche bodies traditionally are not great track / racing bodies.. but I still love them..

At our track, we relaxed the rules for VTA and I’ve been running the 911 RSR body.. it actually handles really well... albeit it’s not on the TT02 chassis.... but it can be made to work..

The VTA tyres are a good option for it.. they have the right tyre height and width!