Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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#1891
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
1-the car will roll more with the upper arm in low roll centre position but nothing a thicker front bar won't fix if it's causing troubles. The issue here is that you are tuning the front end alone, of course the car is twitchy with the stock setup, the TKI4 front end geometry is stiffer than TKI3 and the rear is the same old mix of things that don't play along. My setup cures that because I tuned both ends to work together;
2-Short answer, no. The caster only needs to exist when there's issues with camber during roll motion, more caster without a need only increases wear and decreases grip and your wallet;
3-9 degrees is the same you can run on the tki3. 11 is too much most of the time and to run 9 with the easiness of the old setup (or any other) more than a couple changes are needed. Again, the setup I developed is catered to that, it's meant as a maximum efficiency and stability setup and if there is a car that is faster than one running my setup it's because the other driver and car are better.
4-unfortunately that becomes complex, I stand 100% behind the tki4 changes
Making one end roll less or more than the other, with roll centre migration all messed up nets you worse results. The way camber gain, roll centre migration, wheel rate and travel work together makes for a complicated design to make but if the expected changes are in tires, static camber, ride height and shock setup then you don't need shock towers full of holes or many option parts.
2-Short answer, no. The caster only needs to exist when there's issues with camber during roll motion, more caster without a need only increases wear and decreases grip and your wallet;
3-9 degrees is the same you can run on the tki3. 11 is too much most of the time and to run 9 with the easiness of the old setup (or any other) more than a couple changes are needed. Again, the setup I developed is catered to that, it's meant as a maximum efficiency and stability setup and if there is a car that is faster than one running my setup it's because the other driver and car are better.
4-unfortunately that becomes complex, I stand 100% behind the tki4 changes
Making one end roll less or more than the other, with roll centre migration all messed up nets you worse results. The way camber gain, roll centre migration, wheel rate and travel work together makes for a complicated design to make but if the expected changes are in tires, static camber, ride height and shock setup then you don't need shock towers full of holes or many option parts.
Last edited by 30Tooth; 08-29-2017 at 07:18 AM.
#1892
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I came from driving a losi, the tki4 is far less twitchy then that, so i havent noticed any of the issues you have.
I believe im running 30Tooth's setup and its outstanding, however i could even use some more turn in occasionally, i play with brake bias mostly since its so good everywhere else, again, no idea where the too twitchy thing comes from.
I believe im running 30Tooth's setup and its outstanding, however i could even use some more turn in occasionally, i play with brake bias mostly since its so good everywhere else, again, no idea where the too twitchy thing comes from.
#1893
What Post was 30Tooth setup. I would love to take a look at it. I missed the post thank you'
#1894
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
@Gavel, are you running the full setup using the front Ackerman holes and less rear toe? Then more camber up front or more front toe out might be enough. Anything just ask.
Updated the setup on the wiki, run 101 front and 120 rear droop for more steering overall @Gavel.
Things to take into account, if I have two options marked it's for you to try and see which you like. I'm advising to use front most Ackerman hole and the stock rear hub height and use the upper outer hub hole with the inner camber link mounting point a hole up on the shock tower.
Things to take into account, if I have two options marked it's for you to try and see which you like. I'm advising to use front most Ackerman hole and the stock rear hub height and use the upper outer hub hole with the inner camber link mounting point a hole up on the shock tower.
Last edited by 30Tooth; 08-31-2017 at 08:19 AM.
#1895
@Gavel, are you running the full setup using the front Ackerman holes and less rear toe? Then more camber up front or more front toe out might be enough. Anything just ask.
The old one is on the wiki, gotta update that with this one.
Things to take into account, if I have two options marked it's for you to try and see which you like. I'm advising to use front most Ackerman hole and the stock rear hub height and use the upper outer hub hole with the inner camber link mounting point a hole up on the shock tower.
The old one is on the wiki, gotta update that with this one.
Things to take into account, if I have two options marked it's for you to try and see which you like. I'm advising to use front most Ackerman hole and the stock rear hub height and use the upper outer hub hole with the inner camber link mounting point a hole up on the shock tower.
#1896
Tech Master
No, i do not adjust only one axle at a time. You need to go upwith the camberlink also, this makes it even worse... This only happends on high traction tracks tough.
You are intiteled to your opinions, and in theory you are probely right. But my experience tells me something else so i stick to what works for me :-)
On a side note, it was interesting to see that Boots and all the Kyosho drivers went from 13 degrees caster and TKI4 bplate and knuckles to TKI3 parts and as much caster (19 degrees) and kickup they had parts for in the hightraction euros warmup.
Happy racing :-)
You are intiteled to your opinions, and in theory you are probely right. But my experience tells me something else so i stick to what works for me :-)
On a side note, it was interesting to see that Boots and all the Kyosho drivers went from 13 degrees caster and TKI4 bplate and knuckles to TKI3 parts and as much caster (19 degrees) and kickup they had parts for in the hightraction euros warmup.
Happy racing :-)
#1897
Tech Initiate
@Gavel, are you running the full setup using the front Ackerman holes and less rear toe? Then more camber up front or more front toe out might be enough. Anything just ask.
The old one is on the wiki, gotta update that with this one.
Things to take into account, if I have two options marked it's for you to try and see which you like. I'm advising to use front most Ackerman hole and the stock rear hub height and use the upper outer hub hole with the inner camber link mounting point a hole up on the shock tower.
The old one is on the wiki, gotta update that with this one.
Things to take into account, if I have two options marked it's for you to try and see which you like. I'm advising to use front most Ackerman hole and the stock rear hub height and use the upper outer hub hole with the inner camber link mounting point a hole up on the shock tower.
#1898
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
No, i do not adjust only one axle at a time. You need to go upwith the camberlink also, this makes it even worse... This only happends on high traction tracks tough.
You are intiteled to your opinions, and in theory you are probely right. But my experience tells me something else so i stick to what works for me :-)
On a side note, it was interesting to see that Boots and all the Kyosho drivers went from 13 degrees caster and TKI4 bplate and knuckles to TKI3 parts and as much caster (19 degrees) and kickup they had parts for in the hightraction euros warmup.
Happy racing :-)
You are intiteled to your opinions, and in theory you are probely right. But my experience tells me something else so i stick to what works for me :-)
On a side note, it was interesting to see that Boots and all the Kyosho drivers went from 13 degrees caster and TKI4 bplate and knuckles to TKI3 parts and as much caster (19 degrees) and kickup they had parts for in the hightraction euros warmup.
Happy racing :-)
That's why I want to help you all, I know you are driving with your experiences and I am offering mine for the betterment of the Kyosho brand.
That track had many sharp holes and the cars were tossed quite badly, with my setup that is lessened big time. With more caster the bump handling is even better if you need it.
Everywhere, all year. Treat shock oil as a starting point in a cold climate so expect to run around 500 if it's warm in your location (upwards of 30ºC).
V2 setup uploaded here and to Wiki. If not mentioned then it's setup from the manual. Use 101-120 droop.
Last edited by 30Tooth; 09-05-2017 at 08:37 AM.
#1899
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
I find the car more forgiving and not so twitchy. For me, the high upper arm needed with tki4 b-plate makes the car flip very often.
Kanai have come out with the 17.5 degree casterblocks, i think/guess this might be a remedy for the TKI4 B-plate.
Someone over her mentioned that you can have the same kickup with TKI3 and 4 B-plate. That is wrong. The TKI4 B-plate moves the hingepin upwards, since the a-plate is the same, you get max kickup on TK4 plate 9-degrees and Tki3 11 degrees if i rember correctly.
If i could have it my way. I would have a new B-plate doing TKI3 setting with inserts that moves the hingepin up to middle hole (TKI4 B.plate) and an upper hole 2 degrees more for astro tracks. That would also require a new A plate so you can get 11 degrees of kickupwhen using the upper inserts.
Kanai have come out with the 17.5 degree casterblocks, i think/guess this might be a remedy for the TKI4 B-plate.
Someone over her mentioned that you can have the same kickup with TKI3 and 4 B-plate. That is wrong. The TKI4 B-plate moves the hingepin upwards, since the a-plate is the same, you get max kickup on TK4 plate 9-degrees and Tki3 11 degrees if i rember correctly.
If i could have it my way. I would have a new B-plate doing TKI3 setting with inserts that moves the hingepin up to middle hole (TKI4 B.plate) and an upper hole 2 degrees more for astro tracks. That would also require a new A plate so you can get 11 degrees of kickupwhen using the upper inserts.
#1900
Tech Initiate
Gotcha Mr. Anders, inside I knew you know more than tuning one axle at a time. In that regard I can assure you that going to long upper arms and one position higher on the shock tower side with stiffer roll bars(or more bar preload, try for yourself) is the complete package, you have to change a couple of things as all is interconnected.
That's why I want to help you all, I know you are driving with your experiences and I am offering mine for the betterment of the Kyosho brand.
That track had many sharp holes and the cars were tossed quite badly, with my setup that is lessened big time. With more caster the bump handling is even better if you need it.
Everywhere, all year. Treat shock oil as a starting point in a cold climate so expect to run around 500 if it's warm in your location (upwards of 30ºC).
V2 setup uploaded here and to Wiki. If not mentioned then it's setup from the manual.
That's why I want to help you all, I know you are driving with your experiences and I am offering mine for the betterment of the Kyosho brand.
That track had many sharp holes and the cars were tossed quite badly, with my setup that is lessened big time. With more caster the bump handling is even better if you need it.
Everywhere, all year. Treat shock oil as a starting point in a cold climate so expect to run around 500 if it's warm in your location (upwards of 30ºC).
V2 setup uploaded here and to Wiki. If not mentioned then it's setup from the manual.
#1901
Tech Master
#1905
Tech Adept
Hi guys.
Anybody knows how to get the bottom motor mount screws - 4x10 flanged cap head (if431), without having to also buy the mount plates ??
And i cant find anything like it. I like that it fits a 3mm hex. And there is not enough room to use a normal cap head with a shim.
Hope someone can help me out here.
Anybody knows how to get the bottom motor mount screws - 4x10 flanged cap head (if431), without having to also buy the mount plates ??
And i cant find anything like it. I like that it fits a 3mm hex. And there is not enough room to use a normal cap head with a shim.
Hope someone can help me out here.