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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 08-08-2017, 10:21 AM
  #1861  
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Sounds like you run on a dusty track. If so, possible front bearing is done or dust got through the air filter.
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Old 08-08-2017, 06:08 PM
  #1862  
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Originally Posted by Adamska27
I have two MP9 issues I'm hoping the community can help with.

Does anyone have the part number for the losi body mount the kids were using? I see two part numbers when I search.

More importantly, what kind of fuel tank are people liking? I installed a brand new Kyosho tank and had nothing but issues Saturday. I am totally open to alternatives. I have heard either turning the factory tank into a clunker style or using the Xray tank.

What is working for you guys??
before hooking up your fuel lines blow fuel through the lines unhooked from the carburetor .... this will clear any debris that can plug your high speed needle


suggestion ... clean out your hsn by removing needle and blowing fuel through system ... replace needle to factory suggested turns from bottomed .... start over

is it running inconsistent?

and btw .... i have tuned every brand a thousand times over and im not just saying this to say this .... the kyosho fuel system is literally THE most consistent fuel system i have ever tuned
big lou, exheliguy and mourinho like this.
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:35 AM
  #1863  
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Originally Posted by houston
before hooking up your fuel lines blow fuel through the lines unhooked from the carburetor .... this will clear any debris that can plug your high speed needle


suggestion ... clean out your hsn by removing needle and blowing fuel through system ... replace needle to factory suggested turns from bottomed .... start over

is it running inconsistent?

and btw .... i have tuned every brand a thousand times over and im not just saying this to say this .... the kyosho fuel system is literally THE most consistent fuel system i have ever tuned
I really appreciate the advice. From everyone, but especially Mr. Houston. Huge respect for what you do man. This is my first summer running nitro, 20 years in electric, if I stay in the nitro pool for next year I do want to get one of your custom Nova engines. Running a P5 right now.

That's the weirdest part of the whole scenario though, it seems to hold tune just fine. If it doesn't flame out on return to neutral (25% chance maybe) it will hold that higher idle and return to lower idle and it is repeatable and changes correctly when you adjust needles.

I hope to find some time in the garage tonight to start troubleshooting. I really do appreciate all the advice from the community and will likely stay with the Kyosho fuel tank as I have the highest respect for Kyosho, particularly with 1/8 nitro stuff. I have been around since the early days and you can't help but notice their domination of the class.

If you were willing to advise me on the mani/pipe you like best for a P5 where top end power is of absolutely no use, need all bottom possible. Running the novarossi 41021 with 2096 right now, has good power, but if I could increase low end power I would, our track is very tight.

Again, thanks to the whole community for assistance
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Old 08-09-2017, 04:30 PM
  #1864  
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Originally Posted by Adamska27
it will hold that higher idle and return to lower idle and it is repeatable and changes correctly when you adjust needles.
its too rich down low
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by toyoter91
Hey John, from what I have felt driving my buddies tki4 is that the steering feels the same and the car isn't any more twitchy but you end up using full lock a lot less.
Robby, thanks a lot brother. Believe it or not this helps.
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:12 AM
  #1866  
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OK, the story takes a new turn. So due to weather and real life, didn't get to test my angry car. Anyway, so I put the car back on the bench last night to prep for hopefully this weekend. I didn't have much time, but I was about to start pulling fuel lines and blowing into them to double check for any leakage, and I think I located an issue. It seems I have lost my carb retaining screw. I think a well meaning friend may have thought it was the carb stop screw or low side needle or whatever, but I seem to have no carb retaining screw.

Amain doesn't have them in stock, does anyone know what kind of screw I can put in there? Is this something that has happened before and I need to check that screw or did someone likely loosen it on accident?

But I think lack of carb retaining screw might be my weird running issue.
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Old 08-15-2017, 02:58 PM
  #1867  
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That would cause an air leak... post a pic, some of my engines have a long m2 screw to hold a two piece retaining bolt together others a 6mm nut.
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:24 PM
  #1868  
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OK, so because I internet bad and don't have a good place to upload pics and link them like a normal human...
I added pics to the racing stuff album on my profile.
If you look at the pics, I think I'm missing a screw
Is this something that I should have been checking? I thought I was pretty good at looking over the car between runs, I would hope I would have seen that thing backing out, but what the heck then?
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamska27
OK, so because I internet bad and don't have a good place to upload pics and link them like a normal human...
I added pics to the racing stuff album on my profile.
If you look at the pics, I think I'm missing a screw
Is this something that I should have been checking? I thought I was pretty good at looking over the car between runs, I would hope I would have seen that thing backing out, but what the heck then?
Try
https://novarossidirect-com.3dcartstores.com
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:59 PM
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Forgot to mention, found the part, just making sure A) I'm not stupid, there is supposed to be a screw there and B) no this doesn't happen often
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:03 AM
  #1871  
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Yep, M2 cap head. I want to say M2x12mm but unsure, will measure one and get back at you and update this post.
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Old 08-16-2017, 03:25 PM
  #1872  
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Just a FIY. Novas come with the screw for the carb loose. you must put the carb in the right angle and then tighten the carbretainer.
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Old 08-16-2017, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by am
Just a FIY. Novas come with the screw for the carb loose. you must put the carb in the right angle and then tighten the carbretainer.
Wow, Thank you, I did not know or do that at all
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Old 08-21-2017, 10:17 AM
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Has anyone tried imbue brass pistons on this car yet. Looking for feedback.
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Old 08-21-2017, 03:56 PM
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What parts all fit tki4 from the tki3 ? I'm really just wanting to know if diffs are the same ? Thx
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