0w20 sounds OK, should have a viscosity of around 8 at 100 degrees celcius.

I found motul 0w15.
This one for 2.11ccm should be fine or too thin from 0w20?

Syntetic with estry whatever it is...

Nice! should work

I did 1st engine.
LRP .12 zz12x team spec2

Motul 0W15, 6.5hours, about 350-400revs per min.

1st problem was to keep temp on 105-110C.
My allu construction works as a perfect radiator
I had to put some isolation material.

2nd problem was strange noise ... knocking
I was thinking that my conrod was already broken but it wasn't
this time it was not destroyed ...

When my engine get cold I reasembled it, put new fresh oil.
Piston was shining and pinch get really up then fresh engine (it is really tight!)
Slope on shaft/conrod = NORMAL, like fresh one, almost nothing. Good job.

I had noticed that my novarossi .12 353 race (old style 4mm shaft) had bigger after 2.5L of fuel (break in old way) and more slope on bearings then OIL one style

Then rebuld engine was really tight. I had to warm it up to 100C on head,
but it still was locked, 0.5L on reach side WOOT option on startbox,
then 0.25L just bashing around track, 0.25L slighty less, 2ng gear in my V10 velox car, then 1L fuel of racing. Just did 20 laps on 5 min with good result 3rd place to mains ;P

LRP is still tight at top, when get less then 85C on head/plug = problem to start it ...

I will check engine this weekend.

Next .12 XRD hard tuned waits for process

From my side, it looks fine. But I need to add 1 more heating device inside lexan box.

My box needs 0.5L of oil, that is cool for me.

It is wise to mount a small current meter in the powerline of the electric motor. Then you will see what the starting point is and how lose it will become.

With our experience indeed the pinch does not look changed that much but with all engines done so far we only needed a few tanks to go on full performance. The pinch looks tight because the piston is now hitting the sleeve surface all around as I did mention before with my 1st engine.

Yes, the aluminium construction needs power and time to be heated up. Richard his system is using 220v 120w heaters which will deal the the aluminium case. I started already with a lexan case because of this.

Congrats with the result!

Hi guys, how are you?

Nice to see that there are more enthusiastic people building their own oil submerged break-in device.

Just a short word from my side.

Meanwhile I have already had 50+ engines in my EBIS = Easy Break In System. After putting the RC engine and oil, I switch on the heating system. In my case I just have to wait only 20 minutes so that everything is stabilised at 80-90 ‘C. Then I start the transmission system and the stepper motor. After the engine is ready, I drain the oil, do a “pitstop” change of RC engine, and continue with the next one.



ALL guys were very happy with the results, it is really amazing how good it works. After EBIS break-in, on the track, here is how we do it: PRE-HEAT the RC engine with a hairdryer on the cooling head for 2-3 minutes, this is really important, so that it is really hot everywhere. This can be checked by manually checking the temperature of the chassis plate under the engine. Then start the engine. It will start immediately and run idle smoothly. Let it run on idle for 1/4 tank, the WOT for 1/4 tank. Then drive the car on the track. Make sure clutch and gear box are properly set. Just keep the engine a little bit on the rich side. Initially don't allow max RPM, but slowly increase it by dosing the throttle on your transmitter. Then within 2.1/2 tank, the engine can be set slowly but surely in race trim and it is ready to race.

I am currently very busy building the initial limited series of my EBIS system on a commercial basis. Working very hard on all of the CNC lathe parts by myself and all of the CNC mill parts will be done on a professional CNC mill. 165kg of aluminium material has been delivered, CNC milling is scheduled for next week. Then everything has to be assembled, which is quite time consuming, especially the wiring of the controller.

Last but not least, doing the break-in service is a lot of fun for me, because it is so very rewarding when after EBIS break-in give the RC engine to my RC colleague racers, without any exception, they are all so very happy. They can skip the normal break-in hussle and just fully enjoy the time at the track setting up their car for the race. Then it makes me happy seeing their happy faces.

Best regards,
Richard

nice JOB!!!

so how long are we running the the break in machines and at what RPMS till we achieve desired piston/sleeve fit?

With most engines 4 hours at a 400~500 rpm

Hello
very interesting.
Which step motor and the controller that was used?
Thanks

Karl

I do not use stepmotors. My own system is based on a window wiper motor and the 2nd build (and 2 others I am working on) have a Conrad transmission motor I did mention somewhere in this topic.

Richard his Ebis system is using a stepmotor but he will not tell what he has used.

Hi Roloef,

I'm about to build my own break-in system inspired by what I read here.
I've only a short question, after the break in, how do you clean the engine? I reckon you don't want to leave that oil inside the engine as it's probably not very good for 2 stroke methanol powered engines. Any tips?

Thanks,
Andreas

With some breake cleaner I do the outside, when all oil is dripped out there is no need to clean the inside, the rest what is in there will flush through when you start the engine.

At 1st I was also afraid of that but there is no problem with that.

All right, I appreciate your quick reply, thank you.
I'll post some pictures of my version within the next few days if it's ok.
It's pretty low budget, but should do the job.

Andreas

I give up waiting for this, I am going to produce my own now !