26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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03-10-2016, 08:23 PM
#2326
Frank Root - Congratulations on RC Car Action Car of the Year Award for the 22 3.0. You pretty much owned the May issue - well done!!
03-11-2016, 06:36 PM
#2329
Has anyone tried the 22 3.0 with 4-gear, what is the difference between the 3 and 4 gear?
03-11-2016, 11:15 PM
#2330
Tech Initiate
Is anyone having terrible with ball cups popping constantly if you land slightly weird or brush a coping. Front and rear?
03-12-2016, 06:34 AM
#2333
Before you install the new ball cups, I recommend doing this.
03-12-2016, 01:26 PM
#2334
Your ball cups must be shot. If you're going to go through the trouble of punching/drilling, do it to new ball cups. Race weekend is too short for preventable DNF's.
Different question: Do AE's ball ends fit TLR'S ball-studs?
Different question: Do AE's ball ends fit TLR'S ball-studs?
03-12-2016, 01:43 PM
#2335
I've broken several parts from hard hits, but I have yet to have a ball cup pop off. However, I have never removed one from the ball stud for setup changes. When building, I drilled holes just big enough to get my 2mm driver into the hex head for easy removal without popping the cups off of the ballstud.
Before you install the new ball cups, I recommend doing this.
Before you install the new ball cups, I recommend doing this.
Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
03-12-2016, 03:36 PM
#2336
I messed up the tip of my leather puncher trying to do this, so maybe use a body reamer and then drill?
03-12-2016, 04:46 PM
#2337
I have AE ball cups on my car. You will need ball cups, ball studs and tierods to convert. Works great and making adjustments easy
Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
03-12-2016, 05:15 PM
#2338
Tech Regular
I remember seeing Maifield and Denney using B5 ballcups on their 22-4s at Reedy Race I think.
03-12-2016, 05:45 PM
#2339
I've never thought about this before, but I'm assuming the inverse applies as well? Moving the battery further forward could result in more weight shifting to the rear on power, potentially increasing on-power traction? Or is the benefit of having the static weight closer to the rear end of the car outweigh the weight transfer?
If you need more steering into a corner try increasing camber, reducing caster or raise the roll centre. If you need more steering on power try reducing front droop(more limiters inside front shocks),stiffening rear springs or moving weight forward.
Our cars are optimized for dirt. On carpet the rear ends feel too planted and can give the car a general feeling of slight push. Standard things I usually end up with on carpet include using the optional "0" front caster blocks to increase steering overall, move the battery full or almost full forward, stiffer springs front and rear, and move the shocks out all the way on the arms.
03-12-2016, 07:55 PM
#2340