Thanks, but 4.35 is not going to be low enough for the track and motor I will be running. I had the motor I am going to use in another car and a FDR around 4.0 seemed to be about perfect for it. I am guessing I would need a YR motor mount to get that low? If so, it would not be allowed according to TCS rules.

BTW, I saw your site and you have some great info on it about the tt-02.

just bought a type S after the shops restocked it then i remembered my dilemma last time

type R has a 3degree toe in rear hubs as standard and type S only has a 2.5degree toe (as an aftermarket option) but the type S also has a 3degree toe in in the form of a steel suspension kit?

so if i used that suspension kit on the type S, would i get a 3 degree toe in, similar to the type R?


I bought the type S because i couldnt find it last time to i took the type R and now I am wondering if i should sell it or keep in/built it.

If you use the 54634 rear steel mount it will increase the Type S rear toe by 0.5 degree to give 3 degrees. The main point of that mount though is to allow you to fit the rebound stoppers which then allow use of the droop screws. I fitted this to my Type S but IMHO it made the car much worse to drive as limiting droop caused the rear end to break away off power into corners. So any advantage the extra .5 degree toe gave was wasted. My Type S is lovely to drive on standard settings. I just hopped up other parts instead.

so the steel part only gives an additional 0.5deg?

the description is quite misleading "Rear plate gives a setup with 3 degrees of toe-in for excellent stability. "

Anyone using the 54574 aluminum steering links, and if so, how do the attach? Is there a nut to hold them under the chassis? My existing tub is stripping out after only two nights of racing.

The hop up TT02-S steel rear plate gives you 3 degrees of rear toe-in.

The TT02-S has 2.5 degrees of toe in with the rear plate that is included.

A std TT02 has 0 degrees of toe in. Unless you buy the hop-up rear hubs (they give you toe in at the rear of 2.5 degrees) or if you buy the TT02-S hop up suspension set which gives you 3 degrees.

As a side note, the hop-up suspension set also allows you to add droop limiters to your TT02-S which makes things easier.

Sorry no, they just replace the plastic part, there is no nut to go under the chassis. How have you damaged that part of the chassis? You didnt use threadlock on the parts or an electric screw driver?

No, I took a big hit and snagged the wheel. It pulled the screw most of the way out.

Ouch!

Luckily the replacement chassis are very cheap, it's just a pain taking it all out

Been there, done that. In my case I used the low friction hop up screw and it sheared the top clean off leaving the thread in the chassis.

Here's my TT-02D Type S that I race at the local Tamiya Series. Handles great, although it's not quite as nimble or quick to react compared to my TA05v2 that has the same servo and motor/esc combo. Any ideas on how to make it quicker to respond to steering inputs?

Your car looks great and the steering uprights are a great improvement. What class did you run it in? Would a servo with more torque make any difference?

Thanks MD! I run it in the TT01/TT02 class. We run 540 silvercan or the Tamiya 16T/15.5T sensored motors. Right now I have a Futaba S9551 in there. My TA05v2 that I run in the GT class has the same servo and motor but it is has more steering and is quicker to react. The TA05 has Tamiya yellow springs all around with spool up front and gear diff at the rear, while the TT02 has yellow sprins at the front and blue rear, gear diffs with 1,000,000 oil in the front diff and just grease inside the rear diff

Hmmm, I have the S and also a TA05v2 too and if anything I find the S has more steering and is generally more "pointy" than the 05. My S is on the kit springs (gold) all round which are softer than the blue (hard) fronts I have on my 05 but both have the same shocks and -1 degree front camber, so maybe go down a grade on your front springs. We're not allowed to run anything other than a kit spec diff though.

I too have the same shocks (42102) on both cars, although I built the shocks on the S with the 2 hole pistons while the shocks on my 05 have the 3 hole pistons. The springs on my TT02 are also the short type and not the full length ones. I'll try switching the shocks on both cars next time and see if there's a difference. The front diff on my TT02 is the kit one and the 1,000,000 oil leaks ever so slightly so I may have to switch to putty

Breyton, very nice FF03 Chassis Upgrade you have there, I never got round to building mine before I sold it to fund an FF03 Evo. How do you find your TT02S handles with the #54651 Upper Arm Mounts compared to the running the top links in the kit position? I've fitted them to the front of mine but haven't had chance to track test it yet and I'm debating whether to put them on the rear also.