DX4R Pro
#451
#454
Plus you can top them off on race day and never worry about it going dead, or having to swap the disposable batteries early just to make sure you don't go dead during a race.
#455
My radio is very easy on batteries, but combined with everything else I've got running AAs, it really adds up. And how often do most of us actually dispose of them properly? Better for the wallet and the world.
#456
I checked those Energizer Lithium Batteries and they start at 6.68 volts, not bad. But for the cost you can get the NIZN and be done with it. I really like the wiring diagram MRacing, sharp. Has anyone tried it yet, and what voltage would show on the screen? 7.2 V would be super. I am glad to see this new wiring diagram as the batteries should last a long while.
#457
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 503
Remove the bottom 2 or 3 screws. You can then stretch it apart enough the tray will fall out. De solder the wires at the tray and put a battery connector on(jst or whatever you prefer). Lots of room for a life. I have a 2100 mah square pack in mine. Lasts for months. Lots of room.
#458
#459
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 121
i had an old 1700mah life battery lying around so i thoght i would try it on my dx4r pro, however the battery was just slightly too tall to work.
but the removal of the battery tray is easy, as previously mentioned, get the 3 screws out at the base part of the radio and one further up above the grip. you can take out even more above that which will give you a little more flex between the 2 halves.
one word of warning, watch the switch and the little tear drop insert below it. mine went flying out and had a job finding them again.
also the negative wire soldered to the AA battery tray is insanely short, so much so i dunno how they got the tray in there. i soldered in an extension to this wire so it was easier to but back in the radio tray until a source a slightly skinner life battery.
but the removal of the battery tray is easy, as previously mentioned, get the 3 screws out at the base part of the radio and one further up above the grip. you can take out even more above that which will give you a little more flex between the 2 halves.
one word of warning, watch the switch and the little tear drop insert below it. mine went flying out and had a job finding them again.
also the negative wire soldered to the AA battery tray is insanely short, so much so i dunno how they got the tray in there. i soldered in an extension to this wire so it was easier to but back in the radio tray until a source a slightly skinner life battery.
#460
Dave H mentioned the setting for response time, that the default is set at 4, so I looked at the menu and sure enough, it was set at 4, so I move it to 1 and the response time is now much quicker. I love those NiZn batteries, as it is so nice to look at the screen and see 6.9 volts, one less thing to worry about.
#461
Dave H mentioned the setting for response time, that the default is set at 4, so I looked at the menu and sure enough, it was set at 4, so I move it to 1 and the response time is now much quicker. I love those NiZn batteries, as it is so nice to look at the screen and see 6.9 volts, one less thing to worry about.
#463
Watch for sales, you can get it cheaper, though, I did.
#464
I am glad I went the NiZn route as it was easy and cheap. I even bought an extra pack of batteries just in case. It is nice when I flip it on and see 6.6 volts after a night of racing. I can easily go two weeks of racing, no problem, and never be below 6 volts. I recharge at 6.2 to 6.3 volts. I noticed that all glitching goes away past 6 volts.



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